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The knock sensor has been giving me problems on my car, and I want to eliminate/bypass it instead of messing with expensive replacements, etc. I know there has to be a by to fool the ecu into thinking it's there and working, but I'm just not sure how. This thread has some usefull info in it ( http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthrea...threadid=45623 ) but non of the links really pertain to our sensor. I don't have a FSM, can someone tell me which wire is the knock sensor wire going into the ecu? I really don't want to trace the wire the whole way. Do I need to ground the wire to the block while using a capacitor or something? Any useful input or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Yes, I did read that. However, correct me if I'm wrong but isn't there only one wire for our knock sensors? There is on mine... That's why I don't think it's totally applicable. I suppose my EGR was there for a reason too, along with my AC, etc....
Eric, thanks for your well thought out reply and advice... I personally don't see paying $200 for a knock sensor when I can buy a whole engine for $400. I'm confident I don't need a knock sensor with the other ignition retards I have in place, if I wreck an engine due to detonation, I'll use one in the next engine...it's a chance I'm willing to take.
I tried the resistor trick to no avail, now I want to make certain I have a good/direct connection to the ecu. So, back to my original question...Can anyone help me identify which wire (color) the knock sensor wire is going into the ecu on my B-14? Your assistance would be much appreciated. Thanks, Jess
Which pin did you connect it to? It might be easier if you solder the resistor near to the connector and attach the other end of it to the ecu ground on the intake manifold. So what you end up with is :
Just to help out anyone that my be searching this at a later time I did figure out how to bypass/eliminate the knock sensor. I am not recommending this to anyone and most probably shouldn't do it, if you choose to do it, here's how on a b-14. Most SR20s should be the same but may have two wires going to the knock sensor. B-14's, or at least mine, has only one wire.
Parts/tools needed:
12mm wrench to remove the knock sensor
a cool engine
a one megaohm resistor
wire cutter/stripper
solder
soldering iron
heat shrink wrap or electrical tape
Remove the knock sensor and unplug it. There will be two pins, one of which goes no where. You need to cut the wire (there is only one) on the ECU side of the plug. This wire is actually two wires! An inner (goes to ecu plug) and and outer strand that is just taped over the inner wire and ends before reaching the knock sensor. Separate these two wires making sure the stands of the outer do not contact the the inner wire. Solder your 1 megaohm resistor between the two wires. Wrap the wires so they do not touch and and secure the wires out of the way in your engine bay. Clear your codes, restart the car for a minute or so then check the codes to see if the knock senor code (code 34) is gone. It should be!
Listen for the sounds of marbels in a tin can, then the big boom as your motor blows up from no protection. Good luck.
Jester, that's great. Thanks for the write-up. What kind of performance gains did you notice, if any? I hope she's running better. BTW, don't worry about some of the people here, they're just here to tell you the absolute worst thing that could ever possibly happen if you are doing something they don't approve of.
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silversx,
Thanks for the comment. My car runs 100% better and pulls much stronger as the ecu is no longer retarding my timing. I can really tell that my timing was being cut in the lower RPM's, it's nice to have the power back. This isn't really a hp adder, and there's really no need to do it if all is well in your car. But for those of us who happen to have some over sensitive or defective knock sensors it's a viable way around them (and it's a lot cheaper than a new knock sensor). Again, care needs to be taken to use proper octane and don't over advance your timing.
Also, my car did run the same with a malfunctioning knock sensor as it did when I removed it but before I put in the resistor.
Originally posted by silversx Jester, that's great. Thanks for the write-up. What kind of performance gains did you notice, if any? I hope she's running better. BTW, don't worry about some of the people here, they're just here to tell you the absolute worst thing that could ever possibly happen if you are doing something they don't approve of.
I could care less if he blows his motor up. The knock sensor is there for a reason, and removing it as a performance upgrade is not the ticket. The QR25 guys relocate it, but I'm still not s sure about that one. At least its still in the system though. If you believe in this "mod", then take yours off too.
I still have like 5 or 6 extra knock sensors with half being known good - I sold one to silversx for like $5
I can't see how hacking your harness up and buying a resistor is worth the trouble IMO.
I never said I believed in the mod, and have already had my KS replaced. But jeezus, it's his car, let him do wtf he wants without giving him sh*t for it...? It's working for him, isn't it? god.
one good reason to get rid of knock detector is to replace with phantom k.d. or other after market one. nothing wrong with stock but more features on new. on custom turbo sr20de. ok maybe not good just an option.
Last edited by pimp02si; 04-14-2011 at 05:52 AM.
Reason: turbo
one good reason to get rid of knock detector is to replace with phantom k.d. or other after market one. nothing wrong with stock but more features on new. on custom turbo sr20de
you do realize this thread is 8 yrs old..jesus im drunk and realized that..
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I personally don't see paying $200 for a knock sensor when I can buy a whole engine for $400. I'm confident I don't need a knock sensor with the other ignition retards I have in place, if I wreck an engine due to detonation, I'll use one in the next engine...it's a chance I'm willing to take. 
