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my friend has a 96 200sx and the motor has alot of buildup from the previous owner not changing the oil.....anyone know any special methods or should i just stick with the kerosean and oil mothod??
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yeah i own a truck but hey its a nissan!!
change the oil every 500 miles for like 3-4 times
then change every 1000 a couple times...
then change 1500...
2000...
2500..
by the time you get to the 3K mark it should come out clean again... i watched it happen on a 3.8 in a buick with 150K... started with nasty sh*t, and now at 3K you can still see through the oil..
use the cheapest oil and filter too
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-Mike
1992 NX2000, 1998 Honda Civic
60' 1.997 --- 1/8mi 8.387 @ 84.15--- 1/4mi 13.095 @ 103.29 mph Click here to see my nx2000!
I used that STP engine flush a few years ago on one of my prev cars. It cleared out so much stuff you wouldn't believe it. One thing that made me nervous IIRC is that you drain the engine oil, then fill the crankcase with just the motor flush and let it run for 15-20 minutes with just that in there. That concerned me about having no oil in. The flush is much lighter than any oil we'd put in.
thats the procedure, drain the old oil, then use flush, without oil, i will use it with oil i think, the article ddidn't say that part but i guess the bottle has that part on it.
I got it at Advance auto parts or Pep Boys but that was a few years back. It could be discontinued. Here's a link to Amsoil engine flush which I was considering. There is also Pyroil engine flush.
Are you guys sure??? I think it is just like any other flush product, you actually add it TO the dirty oil, run it for 10 minutes or so, then drain and change the oil.
I don't remember ever seeing to run just the flush through the motor. Besides, wouldn't 1 bottle of flush be like running the motor on 1 quart of oil? (too little)
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Sweet '93 NX DE+T GT28RS- For Sale
Don't run flush without your old oil. There would not be anything lubricating any of the parts at all. The procedure clearly states how to use the flush and it does not state to drain oil first.
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Brandon
'02 Maxima SE 6MT
'96 G20 (SOLD)
I WOULD recommend changing the filter only, then doing the flush, then changing the filter again along with the oil. That way you have 100% capability to trap all the gunk you dislodge.
My dad had an 85 Nissan pickup. It had around 300,000 miles on it and we had to some sort of work to the motor. We tore into it and noticed that there wasn't one bit of buildup/varnish in that whole engine.
-the thoery behind it is he changed the oil on VERY regular intervals and used what ever brand of el cheapo oil that was on sale. Everytime he changed the oil a different brand was used. The detergent in one brand would flush out the buildup of the other brand that was last used. It didn't matter what brand he used , just that it was a different brand.
-In fact that truck is still going and has never had a breakdown, only routine maintenence. 300,000+ miles.
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I never have anything witty to say.
I dumped some GUNK into a M3, 911, & C class the other day @ work. Their cleaning products stink like hell, but the motor flush was done in about 8-10 min. Removed a LOT of slude & varnish.
I'm wondering now if this is really worth it. I've just decided now to switch to full synthetic on the next oil change and I'm at 65k miles. Isn't this similar to the old ATF trick of pouring some ATF into the combustion chambers, letting it sit overnight, then firing it up (smokes like hell) and then changing the plugs?
BTW, you guys were right about the flush. I think what I did was drain the oil, fill it back up a quart low, added a quart of flush, then ran it for 20 minutes. I do remember it smoking like a pig though.