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I bought a high mileage SR20 from a friend for my 93 NX. He said it ran
strong, and didn't have any problems that he was aware of. The car is going to be a daily driver with S3's, header, exhaust, and intake. It's on an engine stand now, and I've got it torn down to the point of just having the block, crank, pistons, head and cams together. I'm going to buy a new water pump, replace the hoses, etc. I also removed the rod bearings last night, and they had some wear on them, but the crank journals are perfectly fine.
So I have a few questions.
I can't recall ever hearing anyone spinning a main bearing on an SR20, just
the rod bearings. It looks like a pain in the ass to replace the main
bearings, so I'd like to avoid it if possible. I just really don't feel like
messing with the timing chain, and re-sealing the front and rear covers. I
pulled one of the main caps off , and the bearing looked fine. If the other
main bearings look good, what would you guys suggest?
I don't want to turn this into an engine rebuild, I'm just replacing the rod
bearings because they're so prone to failure on our engines, and they're easy
to replace.
Also, what's the deal with the bearing color grades? There's brown, black,
pink, etc. I've never been able to see any kind of color on the bearings, so
what part is colored?
The bearing color is on the side of the bearing. You may have to look at both halves to see the color. The colors are black, brown, and no color. Pink, green, and yellow are main bearings only. I would replace the rear main seal while you have the engine on a stand. its very easy to do. Even for you.
__________________
1996 200SX SE-R VE powered
1991 Sentra SE-R
2004 Subaru Forester turbo
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX
When you say the colors are on the side, do you mean the edge? Is so, is it the long edge (half circle), or the short, straight edge where the bearing halves meet? All the bearings had the word 'std' on them by the part number. Does that tell me anything?
Don't you worry about me replacing the seals, I'll be just fine. I have new front and rear main seals, axle seals, tranny selector shaft seal, valve cover gasket, spark plug seals, and on, and on.
When you say the colors are on the side, do you mean the edge? Is so, is it the long edge (half circle), or the short, straight edge where the bearing halves meet? All the bearings had the word 'std' on them by the part number. Does that tell me anything?
Don't you worry about me replacing the seals, I'll be just fine. I have new front and rear main seals, axle seals, tranny selector shaft seal, valve cover gasket, spark plug seals, and on, and on.
C
The colors are on the long edge. Don't bother with the part number or the STD. All of them say that. If you can't find a color on any of them, have someone else check also. The block should say what grade bearing you need also. The FSM shows this.
When you say the colors are on the side, do you mean the edge? Is so, is it the long edge (half circle), or the short, straight edge where the bearing halves meet? All the bearings had the word 'std' on them by the part number. Does that tell me anything?
Don't you worry about me replacing the seals, I'll be just fine. I have new front and rear main seals, axle seals, tranny selector shaft seal, valve cover gasket, spark plug seals, and on, and on.
C
just making sure that "on and on" includes freeze plugs too
just making sure that "on and on" includes freeze plugs too
Do I know you? Funny you mention that, because the engine I got from Soko was missing 2 freeze plugs upon arrival, and I actually lost one of them on the track at Pocono a few weeks ago.
I've never seen a tool to remove freeze plugs, but I'm sure they're out there somewhere.
Either way, I've never heard anyone suggest to replace them, why do you think I should?
I'd say bearings, seals, and WP are about all you can do if you want to keep it fairly simple. Anything else will involve undoing the chain and then you have to ask where to quit. Your next step would be to freshen the head and replace the main bearings. But why stop there? New rings. Nah, for a minor freshening, I think you're OK.
__________________
George Roffe
91 SE-R (well modded)
84 944 SCCA ITS race car under construction
http://www.nissport.com
Thanks George. My evil plan worked..... I figured that Eric and you would reply.
We're on the same page as far as where to stop. My thought is that once the head comes off, you might as well pop the pistons out too. And that begets hot tanking the block and head, new rings, valve guides and seals, etc. etc. At that point a JDM engine starts to look real attractive.
Since I'm in no rush (unlike when my engine popped at the convention), I'd probably do bearings, seals hoses, and the WP on a JDM engine anyway.
I have new front and rear main seals, axle seals, tranny selector shaft seal, valve cover gasket, spark plug seals, and on, and on.
