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Do you use a sealant or lube when installing the sensor? This stuff can shorten the sensor's life if you go heavy with it and it manages to get on the sensor.
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Bruce in Houston
1990 Acura Legend LS, stock (so far)
1994 Nissan Sentra SE-R (original owner) w/ $tuff, converting to ITA (even more $tuff)
1998 Suzuki Bandit1200S w/ $tuff, W.W.B.O.C. #101
2002 Dodge Dakota tow beast, stock! RIP swwwinger
OK, I just wanted to check if the O2 sensor really was going bad. It sounds like it was.
Well, let me rethink this. I just went 320 miles and refilled with 11 gallons. That comes out to 29 mpg. Hmm? Guess I had it good for a while. I was getting almost 400 a tank for about 1 month. My wife put 86 octane in the car and I got worried so I ran a can of octane booster in there. One can, that's all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradyme
What's Up NISMO,
Can I aask what type of gas do you use on the regular ie, octane rating?
I always run no less than 89 octane. I use to run 91+ all of the time when at 19 degrees, but with the gas prices recently going up I am at 17 degrees and 89 octane.
I reset the ECU and the car seems to run ok. We'll see if it triggers again.
Do you use a sealant or lube when installing the sensor? This stuff can shorten the sensor's life if you go heavy with it and it manages to get on the sensor.
No way! Straight thread to thread. I've never used a sealant on an O2 sensor.
OK. Update to your statement of running rich. My G20 is a 96 and I read that the MAF sensor could cause the SR20 to run rich so...
I checked the MAF ground yesterday and it was at 11mv. I pulled the pin out, soldered on a new ground and bolted it to the intake plenum where the other ground wires are. It is now running at less than 2mv.
I had to do this on my '91 NX2000 several years back, but thought that Nissan would have fixed the problem by '96. Guess not.
We'll see if this helps. I can definately feel a difference in the smoothness of the engine and idle. No telling how long the sensor was reading such a high current on the ground.
However, the rate at which you are going through the sensors is very ubnormal. Only thing that springs to mind is the heating of the sensor. If it is NOT heated properly then it will go bad. Maybe you should check the continuity and resistance or something of the heating cable/cirquit.
Hope so. It did wonders on my '91 NX2000 that I owned several years back.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hpro123
Maybe you should check the continuity and resistance or something of the heating cable/cirquit.Chris
Guess I can pull out the good ol' FSM and start doing what you suggested. But I want to see if the ligth comes back on first. It has not since I reset the ECU and regrounded so we'll just wait and see. Thanks for the advice.
At least try to set preiodically the ECU in Diagnostic Mode 2 and see how fast the O2 sensor "cycles"... You may not get a CEL if the sensor still operates while failing but you may get an idea it is IF it starts cycling more slowly...
However, the rate at which you are going through the sensors is very ubnormal. Only thing that springs to mind is the heating of the sensor. If it is NOT heated properly then it will go bad. Maybe you should check the continuity and resistance or something of the heating cable/cirquit.
Good idea.
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1994 SE-R track car, VE, brakes, etc
2007 MazdaSpeed3
i had exhausts leaks and was running rich, my o2 sensor never went bad. I had an open downpipe for a month too. Are you SURE your o2 sensor is bad? It doesn't seem like it to me. Do you have any friends around you with se-r's that you can swap out? It sounds lke you may have a problem with your ECU reading your o2 sensor completely...
i had exhausts leaks and was running rich, my o2 sensor never went bad. I had an open downpipe for a month too.
for just a month?
it's a fact a rich running car will foul the o2 faster than normal, not instantly, also the cat won't last too long running rich either.
