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As the title says...
I find myself forcing the shifter into 1st or any other gear. When it finally goes in, I have no problems...no popout or anything. It just started happening today. When I force it in, there is no grinding at all...it seems like something is not letting it go in. I can't even put it in 5th gear that it is so hard to try and put in. I can say I put almost 3/4 of my strength to put it in each gear....what can it be?
__________________ Manny E.
523 whp & 409 wtq ---RETIRED
whens the last time you changed your gear oil man? what kind do you have in there now? either that or your clutch needs to be adjusted a little tighter
Black '95 200sx SE-R Turbo Lowport 286whp/245wtq 12.306 @ 113.55
White '92 NX2000 All Stock.
White '92 NX2000 Automatic, stock, not moving, and FOR SALE <---- Click for Pics
Quote:
Originally Posted by BORNGEARHEAD
It's pathetic the amount of people in this country that believe all the bullsh*t being spewed out the mouths of Bush, Cheney, Rove, Rice, Snow, oil companies, lobbyists, etc.
Best way to tell if it's the clutch is to floor the clutch pedal with the car idling. SLOWLY pull the reverse in and listen for a grinding racket. If it goes in, back of the clutch a very little and do it again (about 1inch off the floor). If it goes in fine then, you are good to go. If not, reset or replace your clutch cable (or bleed your cylinder).
If that all goes good and you have sufficient oil in the transmission, change it. If it still needs Hulks assistance, my bet is that your synchromesh rings are on the way out (baulk rings).
1. Gear oil is only about 3-4 months old.
2. The shifting was fine the day before...how does it go to another extreme of difficulty in just 1 day? I understand if it gradually got hard...but it didn't....it just got hard out of nowhere
Is the rear motor mount ok? Sounds like something is bound up.
__________________
saphire blue 94 with lots of crap
my anger management class pisses me off
I used to be a noob but now I'm just a dumbass www.m4exhaust.com
Again...........Can you get reverse in. No Synchro on reverse. If the clutch is buggered or dragging from cable stretch or bracket flex you will know immediately.
Manual Transmissions for the SR20 FWD that I have SEEN or USED in the past.
18 spline input shaft, three models, LSD Hydraulic Clutch, LSD Cable, Non LSD Cable.
All but the LSD versions are the same rear case as the CD17 transmissions. Gear set is the same for the CD17 as for the LSD SR versions except for the final drive and 3rd gear ratios.
24 spline input shaft, three models LSD Hydraulic Clutch, Non LSD Hydraulic, Non LSD Cable.
All but the LSD version are the same rear case as the CA18 transmissions. Gear set is the same for the CA18 as for the SR versions except for the final drive and 3rd gear ratios.
Hint, if you have the LSD 18 spline box, change out the gear sets with those from the CD17, keep the pinion shaft though if you are 4.4:1.
Again...........Can you get reverse in. No Synchro on reverse. If the clutch is buggered or dragging from cable stretch or bracket flex you will know immediately.
When I turned the car on...I threw it in reverse a couple of times (ebrake still up)...it was pretty difficult at times and at one point it even grinded.
Adjust the clutch cable until you have zero free play on the clutch lever (not the pedal). Try it again in reverse with the car idling.
If it's the same:
Have someone mash the plutch straight down and you look at the clutch cable bracket to see if it's flexing.
If it's not flexing change the cable and try again with zero play.
If that cures it, let out the cable for about 1/8" free play at the lever.
If that works, great.
If this fails as well and the clutch is still dragging:
Adjust the clutch pedal "up stop" so the pedal height increases.
Go back to zero play on the lever and try reverse again.
If still no cure pull the clutch assembly and inspect it.
The flex you are looking for is small, it should not flex at all. Sometimes with the heavier sprung P-Plates this is a problem. On some the clutch pedal actually flexes on the bracket. Do not know what your PP and clutch is like so.........
Adjust the clutch cable until you have zero free play on the clutch lever (not the pedal). Try it again in reverse with the car idling.
If it's the same:
Have someone mash the plutch straight down and you look at the clutch cable bracket to see if it's flexing.
If it's not flexing change the cable and try again with zero play.
If that cures it, let out the cable for about 1/8" free play at the lever.
If that works, great.
If this fails as well and the clutch is still dragging:
Adjust the clutch pedal "up stop" so the pedal height increases.
Go back to zero play on the lever and try reverse again.
If still no cure pull the clutch assembly and inspect it.
The flex you are looking for is small, it should not flex at all. Sometimes with the heavier sprung P-Plates this is a problem. On some the clutch pedal actually flexes on the bracket. Do not know what your PP and clutch is like so.........
Manny, you should not have any flex if you have Andres tranny saving part, do you have one?
