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Go Back   SR20 Forum > Main Forums > SR20VE / SR16VE



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Old 02-08-2005, 01:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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So let me get this straight

I am installing our VE next weekend, and want to verify a few things. I have searched and browsed and searched again, and here is what I have:

If I want to run the VE ECU (which seems to really bother people), I need to run:

VE injectors, VE distributor, VE MAF, and DE TPS sensor (or simply run the DE TB).

If I want to run the DE ECU, I run DE injectors, DE MAF, DE distributor, and DE TB.

I could get the cams to switch over without the GReddy MSS, but that'd be goofy because I'd then lack the ability to move the switchover point around.

If I run the VE ECU, the pros would be:

-I could run the engine with the ECU made for it
-Save money, for now, by not buying the JWT ECU

And the cons:
-Lower rev limit
-Lower speed limit (I actually like that part)
-I'll be using the VE ignition components, so when they wear out, I'll have to order VE stuff, instead of more readily available DE parts.


Total stuff needed for swap:

OEM VE Timing belt, water pump, and clutch (all optional, I guess), GReddy MSS (or similar), header, and various "custom" heater hoses.

Missing anything?
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Old 02-08-2005, 02:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blitzmr2
I am installing our VE next weekend, and want to verify a few things. I have searched and browsed and searched again, and here is what I have:

If I want to run the VE ECU (which seems to really bother people), I need to run:

VE injectors, VE distributor, VE MAF, and DE TPS sensor (or simply run the DE TB).

If I want to run the DE ECU, I run DE injectors, DE MAF, DE distributor, and DE TB.

I could get the cams to switch over without the GReddy MSS, but that'd be goofy because I'd then lack the ability to move the switchover point around.

If I run the VE ECU, the pros would be:

-I could run the engine with the ECU made for it
-Save money, for now, by not buying the JWT ECU

And the cons:
-Lower rev limit
-Lower speed limit (I actually like that part)
-I'll be using the VE ignition components, so when they wear out, I'll have to order VE stuff, instead of more readily available DE parts.


Total stuff needed for swap:

OEM VE Timing belt, water pump, and clutch (all optional, I guess), GReddy MSS (or similar), header, and various "custom" heater hoses.

Missing anything?
The VE doesn't use a timing belt. Why do things half way and not get the JWT ECU? You can use the DE ECU and other parts, but why even swap the VE is that's the case?
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Old 02-08-2005, 02:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Use the VE ECU, inj, and maf. Use the DE dist setup.
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Old 02-08-2005, 03:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric96ser
Why do things half way and not get the JWT ECU?
Because the VE ECU is free.

I will end up getting the JWT I think, but for now, I have a VE ECU, MAF, etc, and would like to get up and running, and start tweaking after I have some baseline dynos.
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Old 02-08-2005, 03:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Setzer
Use the VE ECU, inj, and maf. Use the DE dist setup.
Just so I know, why not the VE ECU?
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Old 02-08-2005, 03:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Just fyi there is a jwt ecu group buy going on until feb 28th.

-Mike
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Old 02-08-2005, 04:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blitzmr2
Just so I know, why not the VE ECU?
You can very easily use the VE ECU....also you can use the VE T/B & TPS just use the top plug.
The biggest hassle with using all the VE gear is rewiring the VE dizzy if your putting it into a B13....but it is possible.
use either an MSS or MSD gear to switch the cams and you'll be sweet.
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Old 02-08-2005, 05:33 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Use the ve ecu for stock motor. You can change the timing crystal to rev to 7500 rpm,
I have done it and works perfect. If you change cams and springs go with sr16ve ecu with 8200 rev limit. Use mss either way.

Bill
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Old 02-08-2005, 05:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
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When I start leaning on it, I will definitely upgrade the ECU, cams, and so on--I justw ant up, running, and reliable for now.

Any link to what must be done to rewire the VE distributor?
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Old 02-08-2005, 06:24 PM   #10 (permalink)
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You might consider an intake of some sort also. Be sure to get a header designed for the VE, either a HS Gen 6 or Fuji -- not a DE header. Also, you should have at least a 2.5" exhaust.
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Old 02-08-2005, 07:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billc
You might consider an intake of some sort also. Be sure to get a header designed for the VE, either a HS Gen 6 or Fuji -- not a DE header. Also, you should have at least a 2.5" exhaust.
I am thinking VE stock manifold to maybe a 2.75" exhaust, FWIW. Haven't decided on an intake yet.
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Old 02-08-2005, 07:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hi There,
I ran the VE ecu for a few months, same reason as yours and got "burnt" by the forum too. The MAF is the main issue, I doubt you got one with the motor? I ended up running an SR16VE ECU to lose the rev limit. You can read more at www.sr20ve.co.uk
Good luck Paul
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Old 02-08-2005, 09:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Paul-

Thanks for the message, I'll check the link out.

As an aside, I did, in fact, get the VE MAF. I do need the air filter, though.
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Old 02-08-2005, 11:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pachadwick
Hi There,
I ran the VE ecu for a few months, same reason as yours and got "burnt" by the forum too. The MAF is the main issue, I doubt you got one with the motor? I ended up running an SR16VE ECU to lose the rev limit. You can read more at www.sr20ve.co.uk
Good luck Paul
Do you have any problems with the Fuel leaning out using the 16ve ecu?
I have a huge flat spot when I run a 16ve ecu at about 5500-6000...and have seen dyno plots of a car with a 16ve ecu leaning out as well....??

to wire the Ve dizzy into a B14 there's a write up on here somewhere....simpler as the coil etc is all in one in the B14 DE dizzy, similar to the VE....
if going in to a B13 you need to combine all the external coil, resistor, and dizzy plugs (three/four??) into the one VE plug.....I traced each of the wires on the two looms to get the right combination. got it right the second time....one of the wires looks to be an earth when there's no power, but gets +12v when the ignition is switched.
Good luck with your swap!
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