VE Dyno Chart

billc · 03-12-2005, 11:44 AM

Check the link to see a dyno comparison of VE on low cams only with VE switching at 4400 RPM (intake) and 4600 (RPM) exhaust. The set up being run is SR20VE cams, DE MAF, VE injectors, Fuji, HS CAI, and 2.5" exhaust (VRS and Magnaflow).

http://www.sr20forum.com/img/showpho...cat/500/page/1

jacen99SE · 03-12-2005, 12:05 PM

With the same setup (except VE MAF) my HP peaked at 7200 rpm. Is there a reason you stopped so early?

paNX2K&SE-R · 03-12-2005, 12:14 PM

He has been having a problem with power falling off above 6500 Jason.

Bill, refresh my memory did you replace the fuel pump and filter yet?

billc · 03-12-2005, 12:37 PM

Yes, I replaced the fuel pump with a Walbro unit. I did not replace the filter (I had done that not too long ago) and the fuel pressure on the dyno is rock steady now at all RPM. So I needed the fuel pump, but it did not solve the problem.

I also swapped in two different DE MAFs (uh, one at a time) and this did not help either. Watching the Nissan Data Scan on the dyno, the timing is pegged at 33 degrees (after it gets past the "bog" stage) right up until the power loss occurs, then the timing falls way off. I also noticed some flipping around in the simulated tach readings on the computer screen around 6000 RPM from time to time. So I re-wired the tach input to the ECU and Greddy MSS. Still not solving the problem though.

Update and some other dyno data are available at
http://www.sr20forum.com/sr20ve-sr16ve/107948-ve-dyno-results-reveal-troubles-2-a.html

Starting to get a little frustrated at this point.

Bill

paNX2K&SE-R · 03-12-2005, 12:42 PM

Hmm maybe its pulling timing because its detecting knock? What do you have your base timing at?

blitzmr2 · 03-12-2005, 12:45 PM

DE ECU?

billc · 03-12-2005, 01:14 PM

Base timing is at 15 degrees. 93 octane fuel, no audible knock. Maybe I'll try it at 13 degrees or less and see if there is any effect. At least that would provide some information.

exxd · 03-12-2005, 01:31 PM

Hum for some reason I think the jwt ecu doesnt use the knock sensor input. Any idea if the cam timing has been changed?

viprdude · 03-12-2005, 01:44 PM

sr20ve makes 187crank hp, factor in the 17.4% driveline loss, most sr20ve's should make 155wheel hp. by using a de maf, and i am assuming a de ecu, you are simply not getting the best programming for a sr20ve. get a jwt, and ve maf, then youll be making around 170 to 180 whp most likely.

billc · 03-12-2005, 03:15 PM

Quote:

you are simply not getting the best programming for a sr20ve. get a jwt, and ve maf, then youll be making around 170 to 180 whp most likely.

Sorry, this is getting a bit hard for folks to follow. I provided the dyno graph in this thread as a matter of interest for you guys only -- in case you were interested in the shape of the curves I got on low cams, cam switching points, etc.

I am also having a problem with power loss above 6500 RPM -- intermittent and not shown very well by the dyno chart in this thread. More information is available on my set up, symptoms, and problems, etc., including a dyno chart that shows the problem in the thread at:

http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=107948

Viprdude: I already have a JWT ECU. I am satisfied with 165WPH at the current state of tune for my engine, and JWT swears that the DE and VE MAFs put out the same power as long as the ECU is properly programmed.

I would, however, like to find the problem that intermittently keeps my engine from pulling all the way to the 7200 RPM fuel cut that JWT uses.

jacen99SE · 03-12-2005, 05:04 PM

The power doesn't fall off all the way to where it would be if you were losing both cams. It is possible you are losing one but I don't know how to check for it. An earlier post talked about...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rockwood

i had a problem i just found out as well, and it may cause some problems for others...

i didnt have the metal retainer clip for the exhaust solenoid connector, i figured that a little friction and some gravity would be able to hold it on just fine. well, it didnt. it would stay on the solenoid, but once the vibrations went up (like from revving beyond 6000 rpm) it would walk off just enough to break contact. i put on a metal retaining clip (which held the connector down about a 1/4" farther than the old friction/gravity method) and now it feels a lot stronger and consistent. apparently, its been doing this since i installed it and would explain me only pulling 2-3 cars against my bro's near stock SE-R one run, and murdering it the next...

Besides that I would think about the signals running to the ECU, loose wires, etc... Good luck!

billc · 03-12-2005, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Besides that I would think about the signals running to the ECU, loose wires, etc... Good luck!

Thanks, Jacen -- I'll let you guys know if I make any headway.

Bill

viprdude · 03-12-2005, 10:43 PM

hope u fix whats wrong