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My mechie is going to do a mod on my oil pump which he usually does on the DE -> DET motors he builds and I thought I'd share that with you guys, as I noticed a lot of ppl upgrade to the N1 oil pump.
But first I have a question. The VE has a 4 counterweight crank vs the DE's 8 counterweight. In addition to this the DE has a 'brace' type thing that bolts down together with the bolts for the Crank bearings.
My mechie has suggested that we fit the DE's brace along with it's bolts (they are longer) to the VE bottom end to strenthen it a bit. Has anyone else done this and what are your thoughts on doing this? It fits perfectly but we will have to check for clearance once the cover and oil pan is back on.
Now for the oil pump mod. It's pretty simple. You remove the big bolt where the spring sits inside the oil pump and insert a 2mm washer/spacer in the channel below the spring. This increases the tension and ups the oil pressure needed for the release to open.
It's actually spelled a girdle. I have a question though. Is there an inherent weakness in the VE for which you are looking to do this? I plead ignorance when it comes to my knowledge of the VE.
__________________ "The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing the world he didn't exist".
Actually, it's actually spelled, "Bearing Beam". It ties the base of the main bearing caps to each other so that the stresses are shared within all of the caps, axially along the centerline of the crank. A "Gridle" does the same thing, but it also bolts to the skirt of the block, spreading axial and perpendicular loads; like in a B16 Honda or the 4G63 Mitsu. Generally with the deep skirt blocks like the SR a beam is good enough as the deep skirt actually houses the big end cap and directly affords perpendicular load baring.
It's interesting that the VE does not use it. Some people machine them from chromemolly steels for the SR, but I think the different expansion rate of steel to the aluminum along the axis of the block would cause an uneven stress loading on the caps.
I wonder why Nissan did not use it on the VE, were they out of Kangaroos, did it proove to be an unnecessary expense, or does it, through expansion, show a problem on the Main Bearings. For all intents the VE and DE/T series motors operate within the same rev ranges (±200rpm) so I doubt it's a strength thing.
8 vs 4 CTW cranks, all else tells you 8 is better, however, again, why 4 on the VE from the factory. If you are revving the piss out of it go 8, if you are running standard cams and rev range, leave the lighter 4 in it.
My mechie is going to do a mod on my oil pump which he usually does on the DE -> DET motors he builds and I thought I'd share that with you guys, as I noticed a lot of ppl upgrade to the N1 oil pump.
But first I have a question. The VE has a 4 counterweight crank vs the DE's 8 counterweight. In addition to this the DE has a 'brace' type thing that bolts down together with the bolts for the Crank bearings.
My mechie has suggested that we fit the DE's brace along with it's bolts (they are longer) to the VE bottom end to strenthen it a bit. Has anyone else done this and what are your thoughts on doing this? It fits perfectly but we will have to check for clearance once the cover and oil pan is back on.
Now for the oil pump mod. It's pretty simple. You remove the big bolt where the spring sits inside the oil pump and insert a 2mm washer/spacer in the channel below the spring. This increases the tension and ups the oil pressure needed for the release to open.
Increasing the springs "compression" actually does increase the oil pump pressure, however it does not increase the flow rate from the pump.
This is why people go to the N1 pump, it has wider gear sectors and flows considerably more than a jerry rigged standard oil pump. Because it flows more it develops more pressure wihin the same flow are.
The other thing about the N1 is that once it spills through the relief valve the oil goes back to suction, not directly to the sump as does the normal pump. The advantage here is that the N1 does not contribute to aireation of the oil in the sump the way the normal pump does.
The spring thing is a cheap trick that can work for marginal applications. Do not get suckered into believing that oil pressure is what separates the crank in the bearing, oil pressure only supplies the oil to the bearing against centrifugal force. Think of it another way, more oil pressure than in needed is equal to power to run an oil pump rather than the wheels on the car.
Appreciate the info. As you can see I need all the help and advice I can get. AFAIK I'm the first guy to do a VE swap in this country... 99% of petrol heads here don't even know what a VE is.
I see what you mean about the oil pump. I'm just having it done so I can have a 'slightly better than stock' pump. I can't get hold of a N1 pump so this is my only other alternative. Perhaps later if the JWT cams I read about are available I will consider importing a N1 oil pump.
About the bearing beam, I guess we will never know why they didn't fit it, but if this was your VE and you had the opportunity would you fit it?
I have never looked into the VE bottom end so to guess would be wrong. If it's identical to the DE and non VE DET then I'd say there was no harm in fitting it.
One thing I do not like about the beam though, is that it's retained solely by the main Cap Bolts (or studs). The bolt holes are way bigger than the bolts (or studs) and in my mind there should be some sort of positive location device (dowels for example) to counter vibration. For the same reason the Tomei Main Studs are the BEST, their shank positively locates the main caps like dowells.
BIGTOES SR20 for Dummies.
Edition 1, 2005
Dedicated to the early retirement I could have had, if I never knew what an SR was.
Chapter No1. Enjoy your car, enjoy your view through the front wind shield.
Chapter No2. That Civic just passed me
Chapter No3. How to pass the Civic
Chapter No4. How to modify beyond the control of your wife
Chapter No5. How to survive through engine damage
Chapter No6. Bigger, lighter, stronger, more, I read it in a book!
Chapter No7. How to continuously afford it even though it's killing you
Chapter No8. Why don't I like it anymore
Chapter No9. How to avoid paying attention to that Civic in Chapter 2.
Chapter No10. Other things you could have done with your money.
BIGTOES SR20 for Dummies.
Edition 1, 2005
Dedicated to the early retirement I could have had, if I never knew what an SR was.
Chapter No1. Enjoy your car, enjoy your view through the front wind shield.
Chapter No2. That Civic just passed me
Chapter No3. How to pass the Civic
Chapter No4. How to modify beyond the control of your wife
Chapter No5. How to survive through engine damage
Chapter No6. Bigger, lighter, stronger, more, I read it in a book!
Chapter No7. How to continuously afford it even though it's killing you
Chapter No8. Why don't I like it anymore
Chapter No9. How to avoid paying attention to that Civic in Chapter 2.
Chapter No10. Other things you could have done with your money.
