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Here is a dyno sheet of my first dyno session. I just did some tuning with the little mods that I had. Just wanted to make sure that the engine is strong and that all my vvl switch points, fuel pressure, and AF ratio was at a safe and reasonable setting. As you can see run 9 is my best run. Don't mind the torque. There was a blip in the sensor. I figure torque was ~150-152 ft-lbs.
good numbers and nice looking curve. should be pretty mean on the track. sr16 cams???
I'm pretty positive he's still using the SR20VE cams
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93.5 G20 VE 3 inch exhaust,JWT ECU,5k pill(one trigger) no weight reduction LSD SE-R Transmission 14.805@95.041
Will be turbo'd with Aquamist soon to come
Fujitsubo Exhaust Manifold
3 inch intake piping
Dirty K&N Filter
94 SE-R wiring Harness (Only B15 harness are the tail lights)
JWT tuned ECU for SR20VE, 91 Octane, DE TB/MAF
3 Inch Exhaust with Dynomax Bullet Muffler (if you call it that)
so its the basic set-up..intake header exh.its amazine what the ve's capabilities r..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paNX2K&SE-R
Keep the a/c if its a daily driver. Chicks don't like swampass
Arent you concerned that's a little lean towards the end?
It's actually running a little rich up to 5500 RPM and lean above 6500 RPM. I've just starting messing with the Innovate LM-1 on my VE (Fuji, JWT ECU, DE MAF) and seem to be getting a similar pattern. Since it's a little rich at low RPMs and a little lean at high RPMs, you can't fix both problems by adjusting fuel pressure.
Did you change anything between runs? An 8hp difference out of nowhere wouldn't make me trust those results too much.
Sidenote: I have seen the JWT VE fuel map. It is ridiculously rich at low rpm's and takes away a ton of fuel up high. Not exactly something I would want in my car.
Did you change anything between runs? An 8hp difference out of nowhere wouldn't make me trust those results too much.
Sidenote: I have seen the JWT VE fuel map. It is ridiculously rich at low rpm's and takes away a ton of fuel up high. Not exactly something I would want in my car.
He said he did some tuning (Im assuming base timing and FPR adjustment).
He said he did some tuning (Im assuming base timing and FPR adjustment).
I set the FPR to a setting that I didn't thing would hurt the car. Then I just fiddled with switch points for the most part. I moved my switch points in 100 rpm increments. At the 8th-9th run, I found the optimal switch point for the vvl on my motor. Apparently the starting switch points were not all that great.
I set the FPR to a setting that I didn't thing would hurt the car. Then I just fiddled with switch points for the most part. I moved my switch points in 100 rpm increments. At the 8th-9th run, I found the optimal switch point for the vvl on my motor. Apparently the starting switch points were not all that great.
Why did you do so many runs to find the switch point? All you need to do is three dyno runs. First do one without switching the cams at all. Do the second run with the intake cam switched on really early. Then do a third run with both intake and exhaust cams switched. Overlay the graphs, find the intersection points, and set your switch points accordingly.
You arent going to pick up hp through the entire graph with different switch points. Seems the dyno isnt too accurate to have a 5% spread on the same day, same time, same car with the same setup. I would also very interested in further fuel management if I were you, whether it be an eman to get that fuel back up top or an ecu done by calum or myself to get your afr's in check, above 14:1 at the tailpipe is not cool. (If that was indeed a tailpipe mounted o2)
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