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The ECU may need some time to adjust to the new program. Let us know if it continues?
Also, FWIW I don't think it necessarily helps to crank the base idle screw all the way down because the idea is that the ECU modulates from the base idle speed as needed depending on the specific conditions at the time. If your car won't run in base idle mode (i.e., the screw is cranked all the way down) then your ECU may need to make gross adjustments just to keep the car running.
In other works, when you are in "base idle mode" these are your "native" settings based on the physical position of the distributor (for timing) and the amount of air that's getting through your TB (affected by the screw adjustment and grime buildup) and IAAV (affected by adjusting the screw). T
The way I understand it, you are supposed to set your base idle speed around 800 RPM, this is the same as your normal idle speed. Then, when you go out of "base mode" for normal driving, the ECU takes over and makes the fine adjustments. If you have your "base idle" turned down so the car won't run without the ECU making heroic efforts to compensate, this could actually cause a faster idle because the ECU is "over reacting." (This is a theory on my part -- not based on any experience).
Anyway, it might actually help to get your engine warmed up, put it in base idle mode, check your timing and set your idle, and then drive the car for a while to see if the ECU adapts to the new program and settings. Or you could set the idle and timing and reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery over night. Somethimes it takes a few days for the ECU to figure out the idle thing (that is based on my direct expereince -- not a theory).
Good luck -- let us know how it turns out?
Bill Conner
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