Just dyno'd the 16VE... somewhat disapointed...

luckybull · 01-20-2006, 06:17 PM

We did 4 runs total.. the o2 wasnt working. so its not on the sheet.. going to take my LM-1 and check it, and take the spare s-afc and tune it if it needs some loving.

all these runs are with stock intake tube, with a cone filter on the end.
also running open header.. now have SSAC header. exhuast was not on the car.. so no more "stop driving with stock exhuast"

checked timing today.. it was at 5 deg. put it at 17.
compression test.. 228, 228, 230, 230
plugs NGK bkre6

first run was 137 as it sat..
tried it again.. hit 141. .with nothign changed..
removed filter.. hit 140
looked at maf adapter on the maf, and it hadnt been ported out.
took off the adapter, still open header.. hit 149.7

the RPM signal on the dyno is slightly off.. by 200-300 RPMs.
i did rev it to 8200 each time. the sheet only shows 7900.
VVL kicks in at 5800

i have seen other dyno's and it seems that i am one of the lower ones.. and i dont kow why.. im going to take off the intake rubber tube, and fab up a better system.

then going to go tuning later tonight, if i can find a wiring diagram to hook up the s-afc.

waiting for car to cool right now.. then going ot check cap, rotor, and such..

what you guys think??

thanks for the help fellas!!!

kesi24 · 01-20-2006, 06:25 PM

149hp and 107 torque is not bad at all for a 1.6L with only filter and open header.But i dont think you did the comp test correctly.No way it could be 140 psi.

luckybull · 01-20-2006, 06:28 PM

damnit.. sorry i meant 2xx
not 1xx
sorry

luckybull · 01-20-2006, 06:38 PM

from what i have seen on the site, some guys are getting 170+...

not sure how though..

Digitek · 01-20-2006, 06:44 PM

the numbers you might be reading are out of sr20ve's not sr16ve's

I think your 16VE is doing just fine.

I just think you need to make it 2.0L to see what your expecting the 16v wont push as you think/want.

or get a lightweight chasis *** thats where 1.6L works best...2,500pound car and up with a 1.6 is just not fun...but atleast you got it running good....id go with some sr20de bottom end later on.

lalito · 01-20-2006, 06:44 PM

not with a sr16ve ve. With the 20ve easy money...

intiractive · 01-20-2006, 07:11 PM

your o2 sensor doesnt work at full throttle anyways, it isnt going to hurt you there

98sr20ve · 01-20-2006, 07:44 PM

Compare your car to other cars on that same dyno. Dynopack vs the standard 248c can be very different. Look for what a B16 did on that dyno. They should have no problems showing you one of those. 149whp is kinda low for a 248c dyno but not for a Dynopack or the new type.

luckybull · 01-20-2006, 07:52 PM

my buddies b16 with just intake and exhuast dynod 154.3whp

STRATTON · 01-20-2006, 08:05 PM

do you live in the us ? if so i ask you this, why did you swap in a 1.6 ve ? in my opinion its not worth it. now if you bought the car with the 1.6 already in it thats another story. and if thats the case id say turbo it.

stratton.

Johnny wangwang · 01-20-2006, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by intiractive

your o2 sensor doesnt work at full throttle anyways, it isnt going to hurt you there

He means the wideband O2 sensor that the Dyno uses...

luckybull · 01-20-2006, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by STRATTON

do you live in the us ? if so i ask you this, why did you swap in a 1.6 ve ? in my opinion its not worth it. now if you bought the car with the 1.6 already in it thats another story. and if thats the case id say turbo it.
stratton.

i bought the car for 1k. with the motor. i found my old RWD manifold from my redtop.. i might see if i can get a small turbo mated to it.. that would be kinda fun!!!!

but is that about right for the HP.. i thought i would be able to tear down b16's

STRATTON · 01-20-2006, 08:12 PM

sadly enough b16s will generally be in a lighter chassis (crx, bubble etc) make a tad bit more tq than. i think its about right as far as whp goes. if you wanna tear down b16s do this : rip that 16ve head off. get a de block. slape in the 16ve pistons slap on the ve head and be out. ull be raping ls-v's like its nothing. or like u mentioned turbo it.

stratton.

luckybull · 01-20-2006, 09:26 PM

just checked the cap and rotor.. and they are toast.. anyone know if any at autozone will work?

98sr20ve · 01-20-2006, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luckybull

my buddies b16 with just intake and exhuast dynod 154.3whp

Then you are a god 10+whp down on what you should be if they dynoed on the same dyno. If its not the same dyno it does not relate.

t bags · 01-20-2006, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luckybull

just checked the cap and rotor.. and they are toast.. anyone know if any at autozone will work?

what dizzy r u using?dam 1k for it..listen to stratton and build the bottom end.a sr20 block is fairly cheap..

luckybull · 01-20-2006, 10:14 PM

i dont plan on keeping it.

its the sr16 dizzy..

just went to autozone, and had them check every cap and rotor i could think of.. and none of them are the same..

eric96ser · 01-20-2006, 10:17 PM

Mossy Nissan is the only place to get a cap and rotor for the VE distributor.

1HARRAS · 01-20-2006, 10:21 PM

i thought you were rockin the d15 with that tq curve, but nice numbers

eric96ser · 01-20-2006, 10:24 PM

Your car is dynoing right where it should be. Since your only real mod is the mismatched header, 149whp and 107 ft-lbs is correct. The SR16VE is rated at 173hp and 119 ft-lbs. The standard rule to find your estimated flywheel power is to take your dyno reading, and divide by .85. That is assuming 15% power loss through the driveline. 149whp is 175hp and 107 ft-lbs is 126ft-lbs. With an actual exhaust and a header that fits the motor, you should see a little more power. Having an open exhaust will kill your torque, which is why the car feels slow.