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Could you take an SR16 N1 and replace the crank with one from either the SR20VE or the latest gen SR20DE to create an SR20 N1? What about swapping the SR16 N1 block for one from an SR20VE?
Could you take an SR16 N1 and replace the crank with one from either the SR20VE or the latest gen SR20DE to create an SR20 N1? What about swapping the SR16 N1 block for one from an SR20VE?
The blocks are similiar between all the sr engines. You don't need a ve block. Just get a sr20 crank, rods and ve pistions and swap away. This was covered in a post from Andreas at one time. He was selling some sr16ve and sr20ve. He recomended (for people with the engine building resources to buy the sr16ve and put a 2000 crank and rods and sr20ve pistons (I think). You end up with basically a sr20ve with the better sr16ve cams at a savings. Do a search on this forum to confirm my memory isn't off on a small part of this.
Originally posted by NissanTuner The better SR16VE cams? What makes them better over the 20VE cams? Different lift, duration, are they stronger?
The SR16VE cams have a more aggressive grind. They will drop right into a SR20VE and produce an additional 15 whp according to our VE guru Andres Miko. What excites me about this is the fact that they are OEM cams and can be easily sourced. I'm planning on going this route but want to run the motor in stock trim for the summer before I take it to the next level.
Ever since Andreas mentionned this, I knew this is what I wanted.
With this setup I can easily have 200whp N/A with a FLAT torque curve. What more can a guy ask for on the track.
It'll probably put more power than that to the ground though when Im done with it.
I'll be buying an SR16VE in the fall.
I'll do all teh parts upgrades to get it to SR20VE. Since I have a 2001 Sentra it'll be that much cheaper if I use my own crank (then I cant sell my engine, but I'll decided when the time comes.)
Then through out the winter I'll have a 3 stage Port and polish done to it, probably some other internal work also. Get the Hotshot Headers. I already have a 2.25" exhaust, mandrel bent, which should be enough. And I'll try to get some pulley's that fit.
I should have around 210-235whp if not more.
And in the spring time I'll do the swap.
I cant wait, and this is going to kick butt, plus my B15 will finaly have the power it deserves to toss it around a road course
Originally posted by spicez With this setup I can easily have 200whp N/A with a FLAT torque curve. What more can a guy ask for on the track.
IMHO you really can't ask for a better setup for a FWD track car. 200 reliable, bullet proof whp has been a dream of mine ever since I bought my car. Yes you can get that and more from a BB swap but having the linear power of a NA motor and peace of mind knowing you have much less chance of things going wrong ie: broken tranny is priceless.
Is is as easy as just dropping in a SR20VE into my car? I have a 2001 Infiniti G20. What about the ecu? What else would i need to have done for it to run smoothly?
Since you have a 2001 SR20DE your in the same boat as I am.
Im currently gathering information on all this. So I dont have all the answers yet. But Im guessing we'll have to do a 1996 200SX ECU swap, then have it programmed by JWT.
But since I wont be boosting or anything, I could probably just re-pin the wires and use the VE ECU, I dont see why not.
What wiring harness would we use? I thought the reason that you cant use a VE ecu is that in order to use it, you must have the CVT tranny. is that no true? Also, what do you mean by boosting?
Thanks for the info!
~Kedar
My logic was that, the stock VE ECU should be fine for running the VE even with a header, a port and polish. Though Im not to sure how the SR16 cams will affect idle and drivability.
About the ECU, well I'll be looking into that, I dont have all the answers yet.
I talked to Andreas today on another matter, so I'll ask him next time I get him on the phone.
Originally posted by spicez It cant be done with the N1 because you cant use the N1 Cams in the SR20VE.
But if you start with an SR16VE N1 that already has the N1 cams can you stroke it out to an SR20VE N1 by using replacing the crank and rods from the current model SR20DE? Perhaps go for a 1mm overbore and use some flavor of 300ZX 11:1 pistons?
I suppose the real question then is what are the differences between the SR16VE and SR16VE N1? Obviously the cams are different, and since the cams aren't compatible the valve train must be different, too.
Let's suppose you could build an SR20VE N1. Would it stand up to the higher revs due to the longer stroke? Perhaps you'd have to lower the redline?
Originally posted by spicez By boosting I mean turbo.
My logic was that, the stock VE ECU should be fine for running the VE even with a header, a port and polish. Though Im not to sure how the SR16 cams will affect idle and drivability.
About the ECU, well I'll be looking into that, I dont have all the answers yet.
I talked to Andreas today on another matter, so I'll ask him next time I get him on the phone.
Hey spicez, have you gotten a chance to talk to Andreas again?
I looked at the pictures in the link of the first post. The Sr16 seems to have a very different intake. Does anyone know what it is like in comparision to the sr20ve. Also, other the the cam's is there any other advatage/disadvatage to the sr16ve built with the 2000 sr20de crank/rods and sr20ve pistons? It seems that everyone has the sr20ve. Andreas has a sr16ve and I may but it in a couple weeks.
