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is this possible? i broke 2 trannies with my act clutch with a regular primera motor, i know i will be pushng like 250 hp at least and i do not want to break another tranny. i was wondering if the sr20ve tranny would fit? and if it does are they as fragile as our tranny?
TIA
tony
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1993 Sentra Se-R
Mods: Hotshot 3rd gen. header, Solid motor mounts, HKS 60mm Sport cat back exhaust, hollowed cat, JWT s3's, ebay front strut bar, and pop charger.
The only manual tranny that came with the VEs was on the 1.6L motors. The trannies are very similiar to the ones that came on domestic cars, except the ratios are different. I believe one version came with a hydraulic clutch, which is a bit stronger than our trannies, but not a huge amount.
If you are breaking engines without turbo our nitrous, the problem isn't the tranny, its you! You are too hard on it. You either need to be a little by more gentle, or switch to a less aggressive clutch. Are you running a puck type disc? Sprung Hub?
the ve tranny is not really any stronger. the gears are shorter so it makes up for a lack of torque in the 1.6. i wouldn't recommend it for a turbo. unless you like shifting frantically all the time. the torque would likely shred it though.
i was wondering about the same thing, but i wanted to put it with my de motor with a 75-100 d.p. kit, do ya think it would hold up, cause im gonna need a strong drivetrain when mated with slicks etc etc.. feedback please.......
Originally posted by detis4me i was wondering about the same thing, but i wanted to put it with my de motor with a 75-100 d.p. kit, do ya think it would hold up, cause im gonna need a strong drivetrain when mated with slicks etc etc.. feedback please.......
I just bought a cable “N1" transmission (only ve transmission) from Andreas. He talked with me about this. His reply was that the “cable operated clutch” transmission on all "sr" engines have the same strength. Ratios vary but strength is the same. If you want a stronger transmission then you need a hydraulic clutch transmission. I don’t know if it is all hydraulic transmissions or only the hydraulic “N1” transmission that are about 15% stronger/bigger. For cable clutch cars it is not a direct replacement. You need to fabricate to make it work (slave cylinder, hydraulic lines, etc.). None of this is an original thought just a repeat of what Andreas told me when I finalized my purchase.
thanks for all the info, and to Lyn, i have a 4 puck stage 4 act clutch, its very harsh but i love it. well i guess im gonna have to be easier when the det goes in.
Originally posted by T25NX2k thanks for all the info, and to Lyn, i have a 4 puck stage 4 act clutch, its very harsh but i love it. well i guess im gonna have to be easier when the det goes in.
If you're going to run the puck setup, then get the 6-puk ACT disk..its a lot less harsh on the trannys from what I've been told....do you have the heavy duty pressure plate or the extreme pressure plate?
Holy shiat man, 4-puck is wayyyyyyyyyyyy overkill. I know you must like barking the tires on the 3-4 shift, but damn man, the amount of shock that disc delivers to your drivetrain is unbelieveable. If you have a street car, you should really run a disk with a sprung hub if at all possible. What are your power goals? I can help you pick a suitable clutch that will probably grab as well as you like, and let your tranny survive...
lyn
what do you think would be a good clutch combo for my car, sr20 with all bolt ons/s4 cams/ 75 shot and drag radials? i need something that wont slip and wont blow out quick. how would a act 6 puck disc and hd pp work?? im up for ideas.. thanks
all the unsprung hub puck clutches (4, 6, whatever) are much more harsh and jarring on a tranny than a sprung disc with non-metallic facings. A lot of people have had good luck with the ACT hot street disc and the HD pressure plate. The clutchnet disc is nice too. 4-puck is absolute overkill unless you are running 9's or something
It looks like you will be putting down around 220-240HP at the wheels. The ACT Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, with their Heavy Duty, Street disc should suit you nicely. Jay Hassinger beat one to hell with all the bolt ons and a 50shot of JWT Nitrous, and he couldn't get it to slip. Only with 16psi on his big turbo kit did it slip, but he was probably putting down over 320WHP at that point. This was with slicks too, btw.
yeah when i bought the clutch i wasnt really knowledgeable about this stuff yet. i wish i has gotten the street disc. i have the xtreme pp btw... its a fun clutch, but i want something that is better for the streets. what would you recommend? can i just buy the disc or or does the street disc need a different pp?
Originally posted by T25NX2k yeah when i bought the clutch i wasnt really knowledgeable about this stuff yet. i wish i has gotten the street disc. i have the xtreme pp btw... its a fun clutch, but i want something that is better for the streets. what would you recommend? can i just buy the disc or or does the street disc need a different pp?
You should get the B15 Sentra SE disk from Nissan...has a better hub...costs around $60...IMHO...
Yeah i too broke 2 trannys in my 98 SE with minor bolt ons ( 140 WHP Dynoed ) it was the damn POS ACT Clutch i had the
sprung hub street disk with the XT PP.. Now im running a JWT
setup with B15 disk and it feels nice im sure my trannys loving it more but it sucks that our trannys are so weak. i have friends with HONDUHS that dont blow trannies no matter what clutch they throw at it.. Mines pretty good now though since i welded the case up and added the wolf clutch and cryoed gears.
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Daryl Gregg www.darylgregg.com
00 Jetta GLX VR6
02 Jetta 1.8t ( hers )
92 Sentra SE-R
98 Sentra SE ( RIP ) 14.2 NA
94 Sentra SE-R ( sold )
90 CRX SI w/GSR + bolt ons ( sold ) 12sec all motor