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Go Back   SR20 Forum > Main Forums > SR20VE / SR16VE



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Old 06-28-2006, 05:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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My VE and swap.

Hey. My first thread on this forum. To introduce myself, my name is Kristoffer Daldorff, and I'm from Norway. I have a 1998 Nissan Primera GT, which lately took a dump after JWT S3R-install. Stretched chain, bent valves, metal-pieces all over, and just a complete mess. This small crisis (SR20's are pretty expensive to buy up here..gotta import them) led me to the SR20VE I had read so much about, and late last week my wait was done, as my VE arrived.
To my knowledge, there are some people in Denmark with this engine, and I've heard stuff about Swedish people, but I think this is the first VE in Norway.



What I plan to do, from what I've read, figured out, and gotten as advice by some of this forums very knowledgeable people, is this:
Run DE ECU, DE maf, DE tb, DE distributor. VE injectors should give too much fuel on full throttle, so I will use a S-AFC II to try to tune that away. The VVL-solenoids will be activated by a GReddy MSS, and some gauges for oil-pressure and water temp will be keeping an eye on things.
Only thing I have left to get is the MSS, but I figure it wont hurt anything to run the engine without it for two weeks until I can get it.
I also got a JUN-flywheel that will go on in the swap, and some other tuning-stuff planned, but as with everybody else, money is, and will be, the issue.

Swap will begin on friday. I'll try to take a lot of pics and just document everything as good as I can. Hopefully we'll get her to start on late saturday or sunday, without any big problems. Wish me luck

Last edited by Dulle : 06-28-2006 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 06-28-2006, 06:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Engine looks really clean. Get thant sucker in there!!!
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Old 06-28-2006, 06:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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sounds like you have your stuff together. I ran that setup for over a year with no problems (except i used DE injectors but the AFC should be able to compensate for that). good luck with the swap, let us know how it goes.

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Old 06-29-2006, 01:30 AM   #4 (permalink)
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nice and clean looking engine

keep us posted on the swap
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Old 07-01-2006, 11:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Sorry, no updates on the actual swap yet, as it has been put on hold until monday, as I need the..uhm..gasket(?) for the crank, on the tranny-side of it. Everything seems to be closed today, so we basically can't get anything done.

A couple of questions though. We check stuff a little more today, and I have tried searching, but I still dont understand why I need to use the distributor from the DE. The plugs seems to be 100% the same. I've read about modification of the lower dist. mount and such, but I dont understand the need for it?

Also, does Mobil1 5-50 sound good? I can get that really cheap, and the guy that gets it uses it on some turbo Ford's and such. It seems to hold up well for him.

Are there any timing-mods I can do to the VE? I did the standard 19 deg. timing on the DE, and tanked her with our 98 octane.Anything similar on the VE?

And, final question. I got the JUN-flywheel. Am I supposed to use the little "spacer" the bolts go trough on the stock flywheel with the JUN flywheel? I mean..if I am supposed to use it, I definately will need some longer bolts, cause when I have the spacer (or whatever it is) there, there will be about one round of threads holding each bolt in...
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Old 07-01-2006, 01:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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do not use the bolts that came with the ve to hold on the flywheel, throw them away. and re use the ones off your rr de.

5-50 enh maybe for a track day....but that's just opinion.

timing can be changed just the same, fuel is more important as long as timing is aorund 15-19 btdc get the fuel set first
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Old 07-01-2006, 01:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah, I'm talking about the bolts of the RR DE...When I use the "spacer" they'll still only bite with 1-1,5 rounds of threads...
What would you have run for street-driving then? I'm going to go to the track with it, but it'll first and foremost be my means of transportation, so I want it to be safe

Alright, thanks for the advice. I'll try to get the safc hooked up by next weekend, and we'll do a wideband o2 and try to get it as right as possible.
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Old 07-02-2006, 07:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Mobil 5w-50 is way too thick for an SR20VE!! Run a 5w30 or even the factory Nissan 7.5w30 to stop it clogging up inside the oil galleries... What oil do you use in the old motor?

I believe your car came with a VE type dizzy from the factory. I would suggest using the DE dizzy anyway to stop any hassles. The VE dizzy could have been damaged during transport and cause problems. Your ECU already knows how to 'talk' to the DE dizzy so it will make things MUCH easier using that dizzy. You can then use the VE one as a spare for the cap and rotor button

Remove the factory spacer when using the JUN flywheel. Also, be aware that the RWD JUN flywheel will not work with your gearbox. So make sure you have the correct flywheel. It will be obvious when you try to bolt up your clutch.

Sorry, I should have read it before I posted, edit in bold
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Old 07-02-2006, 07:17 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Have you got any engine bay pics of your current engine, it will help diagnose what needs to be swapped over for your car
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Old 07-02-2006, 06:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I really dont have any good ones. All is taken in my garage with my crappy cam, and are all pretty sucky... But I found this that MIGHT be of use:



But I think I have it all figured now actually. I'll try to hook up the VE-distributor first. Only thing that can happen is that it wont ignite, right? If that fails, I'll swap over the DE-one and get a new rotor and stuff for it. I'm planning a full tune-up, of course. But the money wont let me do that before next month.



Does this help?

Also, thanks for all the help! It really takes a lot of my mind to know that I can ask here, and smart guys will answer. SR20-family rocks!

EDIT: I didnt know the first one was that small...hmmmm.. If you think it might help, let me know, and I can send the big version by PM or mail or whatever. It's above one mb, and I dont wanna clutter the thread up with modem-killers

Last edited by Dulle : 07-02-2006 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 07-02-2006, 06:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Why does that have DE cams?

Edit* nevermind. Its your current motor. I guess I should read the rest of the thread
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Old 07-02-2006, 06:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dulle


thats a de cam
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Old 07-02-2006, 06:32 PM   #13 (permalink)
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That is a DE cam alright, and that is a DE motor. That's a pic taken after my S3R install dumped 30% of the head, and what initially triggered my VE-swap.
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Old 07-02-2006, 07:19 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I saw pics of a VE up top, scrolled down and saw a DE cam. I didnt put 2 and 2 together.
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Old 07-02-2006, 08:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
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It's alright
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Old 07-03-2006, 12:39 AM   #16 (permalink)
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It might actually be wise to use the DE dizzy if you are using the DE ECU. The VE dizzy 'MAY' have a different crank angle sensor arrangement and if it does, it 'MAY' destroy your ECU.

Have you got a part number for the DE dizzy and the VE dizzy? It can help diagnose what dizzys you have.

Also, which oil did you use in your old motor, before it died? and what oil is recommended by your local mechanic for the DE? I am only owrried about the extreme cold in Norway as to how it will effect the VE.

What headers/extractors are you going to use?
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Old 07-03-2006, 05:58 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Yeah, I've got the part numbers, but I have the written down at the garage where the car is. I can try to get them later today.

I used Castrol GTX Magnatech 5-40 in the old engine. Seemed like a nice enough oil. Changed every 6-7 000 km. The extreme cold your talking about aint really that extreme...luckilyu I live in the southern parts of Norway. Sure, we still have crappy loads of snow, ice on the roads, salt, a couple weeks of 20 below freezing and such, but it's not as bad as up north. Anyway, that wont be an issue, cause the car will be planted firmly in my garage during the winter. I'm tired of crashing her. Done it two times, and there's not going to be a third.
Only thing that may happen to her in the winter is a startup now and then to see the effect of new stuff and such.

As for headers, I havent decided on anything yet. I've read the ENTIRE SSAC-thread (yikes. took me two weeks! :P), and quite a few people say that it will be a nice fit on a VE cause of the big ports. That could be a nice cheap header to go with. Other options I have looked at are the Fujitsubo. Their quality seems great, and if their site dont lie, they provide some very good gains. But I read a thread on here somewhere last night, where someone said their header was low tech and not good...sooo...I dont really know what other options I have. I've read something about an Apexi Race Header, and Hotshot doing testing (?) of a new one..but I dont know.
First priority is to get her together and running, and we'll make a new secondary with the flange from the DE secondary, and just go with the for the time being.

Last edited by Dulle : 07-03-2006 at 09:25 AM.
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Old 07-03-2006, 10:38 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Thanks, those dizzy numbers will determine if the VE dizzy will work...

5w40 oil in a DE is not a good idea. It is way too thick, the SR motors require a very thin oil as they are designed to rev hard. I actually suspect the 5w40 oil would have been the major reason why your DE failed. The oil would have been too thick to lubricate at such hi rpm. Seeing as those cams are meant for a hi-rpm application and with thick oil, it was a disaster waiting to happen...

Castrol Edge 5w30 would be my pick but even Nissan's 7.5w30 is good in the VE motor.

As long as your not using the DE header, you should be fine. The VE header primary pipe + custom secondaries should be interesting. Good luck with it and feel free to ask questions...
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Old 07-03-2006, 10:51 AM   #19 (permalink)
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With the Castrol Edge 5w30, how often am I supposed to change it? And what kind of oil-pressure should I be seeing with it?
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Old 07-04-2006, 07:53 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I change my 5w30 Castrol Edge every 5000Km's(about 3000miles) but I believe it is possible to get 10,000Km's between oil changes if you replace the oil filter and do a fluid top up.

Once you have used the 5w30 and are ready to do your first oil change, I thoroughly recommend this. I am upgrading to this oil at my next oil change...

Warm idle oil pressure is as per factory, it is a little thinner when cold but that should suit your climate. I spend my winters in sub-zero climate and have no problems with my 5w30 Edge in either of my cars.
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