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You do have the correct numbers of links ( 20 rollers) but the dots on the sprocket shoud be between the solids links. Don't worry about the cams being exactly at 10 and 12 o'clock before the tensioner is installed.. The only time you should pay attention to the 10 or 12 o'clock position is when the tensioner is installed and released (popped).
You do have the correct numbers of links ( 20 rollers) but the dots on the sprocket shoud be between the solids links. Don't worry about the cams being exactly at 10 and 12 o'clock before the tensioner is installed.. The only time you should pay attention to the 10 or 12 o'clock position is when the tensioner is installed and released (popped).
I see what you mean. Thanks for catching that! I'll update the picture tomorrow. Should be an easy enough fix
whats the pros and cons of doing this instead of just swapping in a full ve motor?
Pro's it's cheaper and you can do whatever you want bottom end wise. Con.. it's a little harder than doing an oil change. If you can do a cam swap you can do this.
and the fac that you have a beefier bottom end, 8 cw crank, and the ability to put DE UR pullies on it with no problems
so that best combo would be GTI-R bottem end with a VE head? only real thing i never liked about the VE is where the oil filter is located, with my de i can just lightly jack up the passenger side of the car and drail oil and set it back down and from the top change the oil filter..
but from what ive seen most ve heads go for $700 and a compete motor is like $1200-1300
so that best combo would be GTI-R bottem end with a VE head? only real thing i never liked about the VE is where the oil filter is located, with my de i can just lightly jack up the passenger side of the car and drail oil and set it back down and from the top change the oil filter..
but from what ive seen most ve heads go for $700 and a compete motor is like $1200-1300
Best combo would be forged pistons and rods with a VE head I love where the VE filter is. I just turn my wheels all the way to the left and I can just stick my arm in behind the wheel and twist the filter off. The filter has to be there, I believe it'll interfere with the intake manifold in the "old" spot.
very nice write up. only thing u could have done different is just drill the block down where the oil hole is supposed to be. u drill straight into an oil gallery and u don't need to use the oil fittings and lines. Just like stock VE.
this can only be done if using a RR block and a VE headgasket. The way u did it u could use a DE headgasket, the metal VE hedgasket gives a little more compression though b/c of less compressed thickness.
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I started out with nothing and still have most of it left.
very nice write up. only thing u could have done different is just drill the block down where the oil hole is supposed to be. u drill straight into an oil gallery and u don't need to use the oil fittings and lines. Just like stock VE.
this can only be done if using a RR block and a VE headgasket. The way u did it u could use a DE headgasket, the metal VE hedgasket gives a little more compression though b/c of less compressed thickness.
I thought about doing that, since I had a roller rocker block. But this motor is going in my friends car, so I decided not to take a chance. That and I really wouldn't even try doing this without a drill press (which I also don't have). And the way I did it, there is less chance of getting shavings in hard to clean areas. I used the VE headgasket because that's what I had lying around
I love where the VE filter is. I just turn my wheels all the way to the left and I can just stick my arm in behind the wheel and twist the filter off. The filter has to be there, I believe it'll interfere with the intake manifold in the "old" spot.
