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Hey, gang--
Just finished up a radiator upgrade on the SE-R, now that the VE is running smoothly. It's kind of a one-off install, as the radiator I used was a prototype for Powertech Performance that never got off the ground.
Here's a comparison of a NX2000 radiator (left), a SE-R radiator (middle) and the Powertech Performance prototype radiator I installed in the SE-R. Enough said.
With minimal work, the Powertech radiator went straight in. I did have to modify the locating tabs a little, but nothing spectacular. I kept the large 14" fan on the back side as a puller, and moved the 12" fan to the front of the radiator as a pusher, due to clearance problems with my Apex'i header.
Speaking of clearance problems, the long neck on the radiator outlet meant that I had to browse through AutoZone's radiator hose aisle to find one that would work. The neck literally is flush with the inlet on the cylinder head, but over to the right. I found this loopty-loop 180* hose that fit *perfectly*. The only trouble is that it almost touches the runner on the Apex'i header. For now, I've used some FireSleeve to protect it, but a roll of header wrap is en route and that will protect the hose from burn-through even better.
You can see the pusher fan just peeking into the passenger-side corner of the grille opening. I just reversed the wiring to make it a pusher.
I have trusted Autometer gauges up until now. The Autometer gauge reads 240*F while my trusty Techtom CMX-100 reads 174*F. Which one would you believe? The Techtom, of course. The Autometer's probe is mounted in the radiator outlet neck on the cylinder head, just FYI. I'll most likely not use this gauge, just keep the Techtom in there for the correct reading, lol. I'll move my Oil Temp gauge up to fill the slot where this gauge is, I guess.
She's looking better every day now. I'm pretty much driving the car every day, getting the VE running as best I can.
So, how does the Powertech prototype radiator work? It works damn well, if I may say so. The car has a hard time going past 172* at idle regardless of outside temperatures. I drove it in 96*F heat last week and only touched 200* in stop-and-go traffic here in town. Once moving, the temps come down FAST, however. I took it on the interstate yesterday and it stayed rock-steady at 168*F.
If you have the chance to get a larger radiator like a Koyo, by all means do so. It makes all the difference in the world on our little cars, IMHO.
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2K2 SE 6 speed Grey Lustre SE Every option minus navi, black leather, HLSD, Hotshot headers, Cattman Catback, Frankencar WAI, HP autoworks STS, ES motor mount inserts, ES shifter bushings, FSTB, RSB. JIC FLA-1 coilovers, A34 Brakes Hawk HPS pads, 18” Voxx wheels, Toyo 4s, 54,000 original owner miles.
And I'm not going to. I switched the bar around to the proper orientation, but it literally smacked up against the firewall. I couldn't adjust the tension nut in the middle of the bar too well. So...it'll stay there for now, Rob.
Yes, Manny, this radiator is a one-off prototype that Jamie at Powertech was going to have made. However, the supplier flaked on him and I was left holding the prototype after doing some test-fitting on the SE-R.
This rad is about the same dimensions as the Koyo, IIRC. The neck outlet is a little funky, but I think just wrapping the header will solve the only real problem I've had so far.
Man...big radiators are awesome. I never knew until watching the temp gauge after installing this radiator.
EDIT: It should be noted that the first pic of the radiator and the version in my car are different. The first pic (with the B13 radiators) was shot early on; we re-did the radiator outlet neck for the second version, which is the one that's in my car now. The filler cap was moved further out in the second version. Just FYI.
Last edited by SERprise In WV : 07-09-2006 at 11:07 PM.
Greg - is it possible that the two temp gauges read differently simply because the probes are in different locations? One essentially before the radiator, and one after? I could easily be wrong but thought I'd bring it up.
Good to see the car getting closer and closer to "done," whatever that means...
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2002 Mazda Protege ES, mildly-modded daily driver
1990 240SR - the DET has landed. Kent's Funkay Disco
Good question, Kent. I think it has more to do with the Autometer probe's location in the outlet neck on the cylinder head. IMHO, the surrounding aluminum is getting hot, but the water flow isn't hitting the temp probe fully. Just a guess.
In short, I think the temp probe is reading the temp of the aluminum it's mounted into and not the temp of the coolant.
Jason--
It's grounded about as well as can be. I might try a ground wire from the sender to the chassis, and see what happens. Thanks for the engineering idea.
Jason--
It's grounded about as well as can be. I might try a ground wire from the sender to the chassis, and see what happens. Thanks for the engineering idea.
Chris--
Brand-new Autometer sender. Shrug.
Before running a ground wire, break out the DVM and check from the sender body to ground. I bet you're already at 0 ohms. Even with all that yucky red sealer, the bolts are grounding the neck to the block.
New sender, eh? Is it the correct one for the gauge? Although I said I think it's the sender, I think I jumped the gun.... there's no reason it couldn't be the gauge.
But as far as the location goes, my VDO works just fine there. And I doubt it's going to read the temp of the surrounding aluminum. If that were the case, you could say the same thing about the stock sender location.
I am so happy that once again I get to read updates on my favorite forum car
So how does she feel Greg? You content with the way she runs?
Rob--
In general, I really really really like the way this car feels now. Even just putzing around town, not hitting the VVL, it is a zippy little car. Again.
I do have a small exhaust leak that is really magnified when the VVLt@k kicks in, and must get that fixed soon.
In addition to the radiator upgrade...one of the absolute BEST repairs I've made was having my original Hitachi starter rebuilt. I hate to say it, but the car now sounds like a Lexus or -gasp- a Civic when you turn the key. Very quiet, very high pitched, very fast-turning starter kind of sound. If you know what I mean.
I think it has more to do with the Autometer probe's location in the outlet neck on the cylinder head. IMHO, the surrounding aluminum is getting hot, but the water flow isn't hitting the temp probe fully.
edited your post a bit.... I have a CS adapter in that location and Pat mentioned to me that some people get artificially high readings. Not by a lot but ~10-15*. food for thought.
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1992 SE-R 'Fasty' Mods and mods in boxes. Ready for more boost, or more vvl.
"We have always known that heedless self-interest was bad morals; we know now that it is bad economics" F.D.R. Second inaugural.
Props on the radiator as well. I'm working on fitting a Koyo on my S13 with an RB25DET, A/C core, oil cooler, P/S cooler and front mount. There's a squeeze!
Hotshot headers, Cattman Catback, Frankencar WAI, HP autoworks STS, ES motor mount inserts, ES shifter bushings, FSTB, RSB. JIC FLA-1 coilovers, A34 Brakes Hawk HPS pads, 18” Voxx wheels, Toyo 4s, 54,000 original owner miles. 
(quote from first post below)
