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As far as I can tell I have wired up everything correctly. My buddy Chris (wanna92se-r) has looked at my car and verified this.
Heres the problem: The vvl kicks on like it should at 4k and stay on but, after about 5k it seems like the cams switch on and off about 3-5 times and then don't kick on at all above 7k.
I am running the de distributor and have the MSD 8969 box wired up to it (blue wire on dizzy to yellow wire on 8969).
I am using a relay and have already switched relays to make sure this wasn't the problem. The MSD box is set correctly at 4k on and 4.6-16k off and is set to 4 cyc. mode also.
To make sure the vvl was working correctly, I disconnected the MSD box and wired up a button to the 2 silanoids (spelling?) to manually switch the cams on. The button works perfect. The vvl turns on when I hit the button at any RPM. If I hold down the button, the vvl stay on no matter what RPM I hit and hold down the button (as if the box actually worked like it should). I have been using the button for 2 weeks now without any problem
Any ideas on what is going on??? Any constructive comments is greatly appreciated.
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95' b14 SE-R: sr20ve/sr16ve N1 cams/BC S&R/SuperTech +1&2 valves/Fuji header/3" exhaust/Calum real time/N60 short ram with JWT POP/Gspec pully set/Fidanza fly/Gspec stage 3 clutch/B&M SS/Tien basics...
93' b13 SE-R: Miss shifted into 2nd after 15 minutes of driving...New engine now
95' 240sx SE: AEM intake with POP charger/ cat-back
The MSD box is set correctly at 4k on and 4.6-16k off and is set to 4 cyc. mode also.
4k on...confused by what you mean by the off setting 4.6-16k??
are you sure all the wires are wired up nice and good?
ground is good? have you tried a different source for the rpm signal?
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have you always had the rpm triger set at 4k? i know alot of people say if you have them on on too low of an rpm the car feels like it sputters for alittle.
Only thing I can think of that would make the 8969 switch on and off would be a bad connection. Are you SURE you have it wired per the instructions? The 8969 completes the GROUND for the solenoids, it is NOT to provide power to them. There's a debate whether the 8969 will provide sufficient capacity to handle the solenoid current without using it to simply switch a relay (which in turn grounds the solenoids), but if you haven't, I'd head for radio shack (or wherever) and pick up a simple 4-pole relay, let it do the actual current handling. Lowest you likely want to switch is about 4600; it depends a lot on how you're set up where you set it above that.
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this is chris(wanna92se-r). all his connections are correct!I have checked them over and over again.the only thing i can think of is that the box is bad.he IS using a relay and we know the yellow wire sends a ground at the desired RPM to send to the relay.cant think of anything else.
Well damn. Sounds like you wired correctly, Chris. Dumb questions - did you test the relay? Are its connections secure? Running hot fused straight to the solenoids, then ground side of the solenoids to the relay and then the other side of the relay to ground? I know these are silly questions, but either it's something real silly where we'll all slap our foreheads or, indeed, a faulty 8969. Is it new? You can test the relay by giving its switching side direct hot and take a wire to ground (as in, a wire you can touch to the fender well or whatever), engine off, listen to the solenoids. They do go "clack" when they hit.
There's a debate whether the 8969 will provide sufficient capacity to handle the solenoid current without using it to simply switch a relay
I ran mine without a relay, no problem. If my post above doesn't fix the problem, try bypasing the relay as a diagnostic step.
Also, the solenoids rely on oil pressure to do the actual switching. I'm not sure how much they need, but if your oil pressure is fubared, or there's a clogged passage in the VVLT@K circuit, it could be the root of your problems. That is admittedly, an unlikely scenario, but I'm putting it out there so you know about it.
hmmmm? might check oil pressure.also, i was thinkin of bypassing the relay to diagnose it too.good advice.we will play with it a little more and keep you all updated.thanks.
We tried hooking up the MSD box on my brother's car and have similar issues.
The box is grounded to the -ve battery terminal. We suspected the +ve connection was failty so we wired it straight to the battery terminal. It seems to activate the solenoids sometimes, but then it cuts out intermittently. Like it will engage the large cam at 5 (where it is set) then cut out at 6.5, then back on for a second at 7 and so-on.
The mechanicals of the VVL circuit are good, it was running perfectly off a signal from the JWT ECU, but it was set at about 6500RPM, way too high.
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I'll have to look, I think I took mine up (down?) the chain a bit off the coil per the fsm wiring diagram, but what I was worried about was whether the signal was clean in the higher rpm ranges - that could still be a connection, or a wire (either the new lead or the old blue wire) that's degraded.
I know when I used the MSD box I had to use the "tach adapter". This was with the 6AL. Don't know if your digatal switch might need it. It might also vary from car to car. At least thats how I remember it when I talked to MSD tech about the use of the "tach adapter".
I'm gonna re-wire it tonight and i'll make sure the wire for the rpm signal is seperated from the rest so that the signal is clean. Where did you get your power signal from, the ignition switch? If I wire it direct to the battery the unit stays on.
Yup, I took a lead straight from the switch, altho with a bit more study of the fsm diagram I'm sure I could have found switched power closer to the install location.
Alright, I re-wired the whole system and isolated the rpm imput and its still giving me problems. I'm not using a relay, but the instructions don't say to use a relay. Like I posted befour: the cams only switch some times, and when they do switch (at 55k rpm), it drops on and off the big cam from 6k rpm up to 8k. the only other thing i can think of doing is putting the rpm signal wire to the prm signal direct out of the ecu. Any ideas. maby a diagram. thanks
Damn. Pita. Have you run consistency for the "on" from ignition? Indeed, apparently the power requirement for the solenoids is within the 8969's capacity. I ran it through a plain old radio shack 4 post relay and have ZERO problems, but that doesn't mean that not using a relay is your problem. My signal as I noted is likely off the same circuit you're using, just from a different spot. There are folks who can tell you what post to take it off of on the ecu, I'm not one of 'em, sorry.
