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Well after my bearing failure on the built VE I'm considering dropping back in a stock VE untill the built motor can be sorted out.
Now, IF, and only IF someone can give me some guarantee that the FS4 cams can run on a bone stock VE bottom end without hitting the valves (especially concerned about high rpm), then I'll consider doing some dyno runs on the stock motor just dropping in the cams and posssibly the springs too. This is exactly what everyone's been looking for right?
ps: Someone mentioned to me that conrods "stretch" slighty at high rpm. is this a fact?
there has been so much speculation on these cams that i think they are a bust overall. i havent really kept up with the development much anyway, so i dont know.
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Well after my bearing failure on the built VE I'm considering dropping back in a stock VE untill the built motor can be sorted out.
Now, IF, and only IF someone can give me some guarantee that the FS4 cams can run on a bone stock VE bottom end without hitting the valves (especially concerned about high rpm), then I'll consider doing some dyno runs on the stock motor just dropping in the cams and posssibly the springs too. This is exactly what everyone's been looking for right?
ps: Someone mentioned to me that conrods "stretch" slighty at high rpm. is this a fact?
Bring the cams to me and i'll test them in a stock motor
Well after my bearing failure on the built VE I'm considering dropping back in a stock VE untill the built motor can be sorted out.
Now, IF, and only IF someone can give me some guarantee that the FS4 cams can run on a bone stock VE bottom end without hitting the valves (especially concerned about high rpm), then I'll consider doing some dyno runs on the stock motor just dropping in the cams and posssibly the springs too. This is exactly what everyone's been looking for right?
ps: Someone mentioned to me that conrods "stretch" slighty at high rpm. is this a fact?
ps: Someone mentioned to me that conrods "stretch" slighty at high rpm. is this a fact?
yup, that is one of the reasons you keep the quench thickness at about 40 thou, depends upon revs and how stout the rods are though.
Andreas? has dropped the quench below 30 thou total and raced a DE, so thick stout rods allow you more leeway.
yup, that is one of the reasons you keep the quench thickness at about 40 thou, depends upon revs and how stout the rods are though.
Andreas? has dropped the quench below 30 thou total and raced a DE, so thick stout rods allow you more leeway.
Regards,
Mike
I am running only about 25 thou quench clearance by accident. Seems ok though.
So I guess my answer is no not yet? Cams is one of the main reasons why my big dog motor sits in pieces.
Build it and they will come.
Just put the damn motor together. Make sure the pistons have large valve notches. I made mine 2mm deeper than stock should work with any cam that will be put in the motor. pic below
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Andreas what Pistons are those? Looks like flat tops with valve notches?
Here's the story:
Motor was built as follows:
8CW DE crank
DE gridle and bolts
N1 pistons with valve pockets cut 1mm deeper.
S14 DET rods, balanced
ACL (lead copper) bearings
1.5mm cometic gasket
franklin s4 cams & springs
Castrol edge 10w60 full synthetic oil
Car was dynoed to 184whp at about 7000 odd rpm at altitude. Corrected for sea level the figure is around 215whp. Running std DE ecu with a piggyback. Afer about 1000kms of gentle driving it was taken for another dyno run. This time it was down on power. We though this was due to the DE ECU detecting the solid lifter type head sounds as knock and retarding the timing.
So engine management was fitted. Car was being dynoed when the rod bearing on #4 or #3 went. (Have to open up the motor to see this coming week) With the management it revved easily to 8500rpm but was never taken higher than that.
Now there is much speculation at the moment. Oil quality, oil temp on dyno, too much load on dyno, incorrect clearances on the used DET rods, Oil supply from sump at high rpm etc. Will only know the reason later this week.
If the motor can't be repaired quickly then I'm dropping in a stock VE. May then do some testing with the cams in that motor.
ps: Is it crucial to change the oil pump after the bearing failure? The motor was pretty much switched off immediately and only idled after the bearing went.
I'm wondering if that heavy rotating assembly was really necessary though. Derm's motors are running 9000rpm daily on std bottom ends with no hassles.
ps: Is it crucial to change the oil pump after the bearing failure? The motor was pretty much switched off immediately and only idled after the bearing went.
QUOTE]
I would inspect the pump gears and side plates and the relife valve and if the valve works smoothly and the insides are not scored, I'd reuse it.
One thing, its important to ultrasonicaly clean the oil cooler and lines whenever you have an engine failure.
