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I let the car idle, and ground one of the leads going to the solenoid and then put 12 volts to the other lead and the solenoid will click but the cars idle doesn't change.... I did this with both solenoids and they both make a faint click but the idle is uneffected. I am assuming that if the car was idling on the higher cam it would be pretty noticable. Is there a way to test the solenoids, or fix them if they are stuck? If they are bad is it possible to get replacements?
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1976 Ford Bronco (Restoration in progress)
2004 Infiniti G35 Sedan(Wifes Ride)
1994 Maroon SE-R ITA, Build in progress..
1994 Black SE-R SR20VE 196WHP (Sold)
1991 SE-R Turbo (Sold)
1991 Black SE-R (Sold)
1993 Red SE-R (Sold)
1992 White SE-R (Sold)
1997 Teal 200SX SE-R (Bought new in 1997... SOLD)
I let the car idle, and ground one of the leads going to the solenoid and then put 12 volts to the other lead and the solenoid will click but the cars idle doesn't change.... I did this with both solenoids and they both make a faint click but the idle is uneffected. I am assuming that if the car was idling on the higher cam it would be pretty noticable. Is there a way to test the solenoids, or fix them if they are stuck? If they are bad is it possible to get replacements?
VVL is activated by a combination of oil pressure and 12V.
__________________ Manny E.
523 whp & 409 wtq ---RETIRED
If you hear a "click" when you put 12V to it... then it is fine. But the sure way to know is to get in the car and drive it... listen for the exhaust tone change
If you put 12 volts to the solinoids and the solinoids "click", then the solinoids are fine. As Se-rawkus says above, it is a combination of oil pressure and voltage triggering. You may not develop enough oil pressure at idle to activate the rocker arm and if not, your idle would not be affected.
I think they are working now but the car doesn't feel very fast. I would get smoked by the 1998 civic with a stock b16a I have been driving around. Would a stock ECU make that big of a difference vs a chipped one or an SAFC?
pull the vvl soleniods off the head. when you look inside, there is a plastick allen plug, this is the oil filter for the vvl solenoids. this does get blocked with debris, and the outcome is a "weak" cam activation or intermittent activation. try taking a look into this. ive seen two motors that didnt run well because of this. after cleaning the filters.. they ran way better. becareful when using an allen key to remove the plug for it is plastic and can round out easy.
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THE VE-T IS ALIVE.
-92 sentra vvl-t 470whp...385tq. 24lbs.
-98 sentra SE/ sr2ve powered.
-2005 c230 kompressor.
-2006 Lancer Evolution 9 MR. http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...66_28_full.jpg
I advanced the timing to 17 Degrees. It was way retarded, now the car feels alot better, but the seat of the pants dyno doesn't feel like 180 WHP like I was expecting. I will look at the VVL solenoid filter things.
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b14 5sd= vrs 2.5 catback.exhaust/exedy clutch/5th gen hotshot header/jwt ecu/jwt pop/hot shot intake/es motor mounts/fidenza flywheel 9lb/and soon to come 91 cam and pulley!!
SOME TIMES ITS A PAIN IN DA @SS WONDERING IF THAT'S WHAT CAUSING IT!!
I advanced the timing to 17 Degrees. It was way retarded, now the car feels alot better, but the seat of the pants dyno doesn't feel like 180 WHP like I was expecting. I will look at the VVL solenoid filter things.
My Calum ECU will be here tomorow. It feels much better after I advanced the timing, I am hoping that the Calum ECU will make it feel even better still.
My Calum ECU will be here tomorow. It feels much better after I advanced the timing, I am hoping that the Calum ECU will make it feel even better still.
the VE loves a lot of timing. 17* timing is way too conservative! with the stock b14 ecu/maf you can go to at least 22* base timing, on 92 octane fuel.
__________________ KL0 P11 Sport
VE, JWT Pop Charger, Carbing: Tri-FSTB RSTB LCA Bar, SS Autochrome Header, Greddy Evo, Rear sway bar
------------ Surround Sound My VE thread
