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Definately DON'T use the flexplate bolts. You are correct by not feeling safe with them. If it helps out, Ford has a set of bolts that works on our cars and they are 6 point bolts and not 12 point ones like the stockers. Advance may even have them. IIRC they are about half the price too.
Damn didnt see this.. already ordered from Greg V so the bolts are on the way...
Quote:
Originally Posted by t bags
C y not use a 20v manifold and get a custom 3'' secondary made for it
__________________ KL0 P11 Sport
VE, JWT Pop Charger, Carbing: Tri-FSTB RSTB LCA Bar, SS Autochrome Header, Greddy Evo, Rear sway bar
------------ Surround Sound My VE thread
Last edited by civicdragon; 02-22-2007 at 12:21 AM.
HAHAHA! That manifold rocks man! I want one to. Oh, I am getting one. They are all about done to, just need downpipes to match up to the j-pipes and they are set. I think early next week really. They will go to coaters, but I need payments from everyone for the coating.
BRent
__________________ Coach - EEN Member/The Fist Don't F with me!
1993 NX 2000 -- Slate Grey Metallic
1999 SE-L -- back to NA form
Its not like you change it constantly, just something else to guess at until you dyno. Besides the 8969 can tell you the engine rpm under the hood. Set your timing by yourself and see if that comes in handy.
Man I jumped in a little late. But I have a MSS and after we dyno'd for most power, I had the points dialed in.
While playing with it at the track, I got faster times by lowering the activation points.
This was street tires, so my guess is loss of traction at 2nd brings the RPMs too low.
So it is nice to play around with the activation points once you have a baseline.
received the bolts and sensors from greg v... will install them sometime next week or this weekend along with some rear heater hose...
will also pull of intake manifold and valve cover for powder coating at late night customs.. havent decided on the color yet
Spoke to JWT on the phone... After giving them the third degree they are gonna be finishing my ecu after a month and shipping out tomorrow.. sooo I'll have to get pick up the rest of the parts.. accessory belts, some fluids, and a maxima maf.. sourced a few that are pretty close by
JWT is in my hands, the thermal gaskets are installed and the clutch/flywheel is also installed.
Going to be driving out the Jensen's (jen36) shop to do the swap on April 14th
Mike (p10det) with be there masterminding the swap
JWT is in my hands, the thermal gaskets are installed and the clutch/flywheel is also installed.
Going to be driving out the Jensen's (jen36) shop to do the swap on April 14th
Mike (p10det) with be there masterminding the swap
getting closer... ordered a nismo thermostat and Greg V's water pump pulley
Pushing the install back to get some other replacement part since I am waiting on a Maxima maf anyway.
so everything is swapped bolted to the new motor except for the dist and a few sensors i need that are on the motor in the car... I keep pushing back the swap because I wanna make sure I have everything i need
So here is a summary of my progress: Day 1
Started swap at 2PM by 11PM had motor out and on the floor but did not take it from under car.
Day 2
Started at 11AM finished at about 10PM
Removed motor from under car and swapped over everything form the rr de to the ve. Mounted motor, most connectors connected, bolted to chassis at all motor mounts
Day 3
Started at 10AM finished at 9PM (about a 2 hour break in between)
Finished all connections except axles. Rewired injectors and distributor. Car ready to start.
Need a new fuel hose as the fuel feed is not quite long enough to get to the proper connection at the rail. Idle connections are not connected at all... cannot figure out where to wire in 3 of the four wires form the two idle connectors on the ve manifold.
Last edited by civicdragon; 05-28-2007 at 01:07 AM.
Day 4
Started at 12PM finished at 9PM with a huge break in between for BBQ
Installed fuel hose and got the car running... very loud as I only had the primary of the header connected. car sprung a coolant leak at the nipple where the two coolant sensors go to the back of the manifold...
Clutch pedal went down to the flor and wouldnt come back up
SO the day consisted of dropping the trans and putitng it back on. Also I think I fixed the leak but could not run the car as it was late and the people upstairs were sleeping.
Man, thats rough. I'am putting in my VE tomorrow, so I hope my clutch is in right. Did you remove the tranny while the engine was still in? Almost seems easier to just drop the motor? Hope you get it running good soon! GL.
Dudeman
__________________
1991 B13 181whp on DynoDynamics
"I've decided that because Einstein identified that objects travel through time at a slower rate with an increasing velocity, we should go as fast as possible to increase our lifespan."
Day 5/6
Both short days
Took off the intake manifold to get at the leak. Fixed that, one coupler wasnt tightened enough.
Everything good, fire it up, runs great except for the lack of idle sensors.
One problem though: http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=64229
Well as far as the clutch, just try it both ways and hold the pp over the disc and press into the flywheel, the wrong way will clearly not spin at all. If that makes any sense. Keep us updated, sorry to hear about your problems.
DAY ?
All done, turned out that I just needed to bleed the clutch...
Thanx to Mike (p10det) for some excellent troubleshooting
Thank to my buddie Si for helping me out the first few days and car pooling to work while my car was down.
Thanx to Greg V for his pulleys and other parts I needed for the swap
no high cams yet but it feels about the same as before except the throttle response it way better.. i have to finish wiring the inside the car part of the greddy.. just gotta wire ground, rpm and power and i'm good... its already run and wired to the soleniods, i'll probably do it one morning or this weekend
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