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I have a couple issues with my car, and am hoping for some help.
I have an NX2K
SR20VE
SR16VE Cams
Hotshot Header gen 6 - 3 Inch exhaust
Maxima MAF
Calum ECU / custom program
MSD controller
Now obviously to me 175 hp, hardly seems enough compared to others with the same mods.
But another main issue I have is the bogging / hesitation I get at 2800 - 3200 RPM's. I'll be giving it the exact same throttle, and it will go nowhere once it hits 3000ish, then it, kind of clears itself out after about 5-10 sec. Then jerk forward. It gets really bad in first and second at times.
Now it has always done this. Even before any mods went in. Any help would be appreciated.
(If any of the info I put down is incorrect please chime in Jeff, Trev)
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NX2000 93' SR20VE
Last edited by Eric-NX2K : 03-07-2007 at 10:02 PM.
As an example, take Serban's car. He made 192, but he has tuned cam gears, a better intake pipe and an N1 intake manifold and throttle body. With these things you could be in the high 180s. We witnessed a 12 whp gain from cam gear tuning in the race car.
Keep in mind this particular dyno does read a bit low. On our race car this dyno read lower than other dynos with the same set up. At another dyno we hit 201-202whp, but at D&L it was in the 190s I think.
How does the car feel? By the chart, it should be a hell of a lot faster than it was before.
Another thing to note is that Eric bought SR16 cams from another forum member, and some of the lobes were pretty rusty. After we cleaned them up there was noticeable pitting on some of the big lobes.
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Does this happen under WOT? The JWT ECU retards timing alot going to WOT in low rpm (around 3k). This causes hesitation.
What Hotshot header are you running? Whats your ignition timing?
I had this problem very bad. I just advanced my timing to 19 btdc and it got rid of a lot of the problems. But it still felt a little laggy on the bottom.
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99 SE-L. Graphite Gray GT3076R turbo, Protech Mani, 3" all the way! Nismo FPR 740cc, 255 pump, JWT computer,400whp pump is the goal.
just a question, wouldnt it be better to have the cam switch over point at a place where the torque goes up or stays the same rathen than drop down and dip back up? I have to imagine that does not feel good when going full throttle.
Most likely you might need to adjust the cam timing.
Sounds like a problem I had once. The cam timing was set wrong because the mechanic was following factory specs for timing, but the cams that were swapped in required a much different specification.
Might want to give it some more timing with the computer, and adjust the VVL activation point. your about 2-1 hp over me SAE and I'm running the stock VE header.
If you can take the car to the track...don't let the dyno desapoint you maybe it could still get some extra whp from a bit more of playing and tunning around but go run the 1/4 mile and see; there is where it will tell you for sure how much power you have.
I have seen something similar localy a friend dynoed his VE around the 170ish area and as you he was very desapointed but the car runs 13.7-8 @ 99mph on street tires and 13.3 on slicks so the dynos dont always turn high numbers plus there are many more variables and settings on each dyno you go that could give you fair results or higher (customer happy results).
I rather have an avarage dyno and put good power to the road and on the track than a dyno queen...many of the cars around with lots of whp run around the 97-99mph area...anyways you get the idea take it to the track and see.
If you can take the car to the track...don't let the dyno desapoint you maybe it could still get some extra whp from a bit more of playing and tunning around but go run the 1/4 mile and see; there is where it will tell you for sure how much power you have.
I have seen something similar localy a friend dynoed his VE around the 170ish area and as you he was very desapointed but the car runs 13.7-8 @ 99mph on street tires and 13.3 on slicks so the dynos dont always turn high numbers plus there are many more variables and settings on each dyno you go that could give you fair results or higher (customer happy results).
I rather have an avarage dyno and put good power to the road and on the track than a dyno queen...many of the cars around with lots of whp run around the 97-99mph area...anyways you get the idea take it to the track and see.
AHHHHH-MEN!
The question should be asked... Do YOU like the way that it performs?
Everything as you'd like it?
Why let arbiturary numbers spoil your enjoyment?
Drive it, enjoy it. If you want make it faster, but ENJOY it!
I had this problem very bad. I just advanced my timing to 19 btdc and it got rid of a lot of the problems. But it still felt a little laggy on the bottom.
Well, The timing was advanced a couple times and I did help alot. But the same hesitation issue still is present. The car is VERY hard to drive. Bucks back and forth below 4200rpm....voilently. Its like the car is cursed.LOL. But the hesitation isnt AS bad when the weather becomes warmer.... . Hope it gets better...
I have almost the same mods, I made 176WHP, but I have no 3" exhaust, some sh*tty header and an SAFC. I do have the SR16 cams and the car hits a wall at 4800RPM VVL switchover, it takes about 2.5 seconds and WHAM then it kicks hard and throws you in the seat till redline, its starting to piss me off how non linear the powerband is.
The car bucks back and forth too sometimes at the end of 2nd to third shift but only at WOT.
Good luck with what you find on fixing this problem, I have the same exact thing.
Sorry for the bad quality, this was at a dyno day....no tuning.
Not sure why you both have that nasty dip in power. Mine is pretty smooth, I think the intake starts at 4700 then the exhaust at 4800 or 4600/4700.
The last dyno was with the ported head and stock exhaust manifold. The one before is stock head but this isn't the SAE #'s
what degree timing were you at? Calum Ecu are pretty aggressive, you usually have to set the timing to about 10 - 8 degrees to make the most power out of it.
what degree timing were you at? Calum Ecu are pretty aggressive, you usually have to set the timing to about 10 - 8 degrees to make the most power out of it.
What program are you talking about? I thought the only VE program that he has readily available on the forum is the stock sr16 base map.
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95 200sx
sr20ve
I dont even know what the timing is on my car. I have to get all this checked out when I run into some cashflow, I dont want to tune the car just yet until I get the exhaust and Fuji.
SAE? The graph says STD, which would make your numbers completely uncomparable to his. Even if it both numbers were in SAE, I wouldn't even compare the numbers unless they were on the same dyno.
I have almost the same mods, I made 176WHP, but I have no 3" exhaust, some sh*tty header and an SAFC. I do have the SR16 cams and the car hits a wall at 4800RPM VVL switchover, it takes about 2.5 seconds and WHAM then it kicks hard and throws you in the seat till redline, its starting to piss me off how non linear the powerband is.
The car bucks back and forth too sometimes at the end of 2nd to third shift but only at WOT.
The linear torque curve is what attracted me to the VE. You definitely have serious tuning issues to work out. Look where your peak torque is compared to the other two graphs in this post. Looks like the ECU is pulling timing significantly where peak torque should be and doesn't recover until the end of the RPM range. I would definitely try setting your base timing back some and see how it feels.
This motor seems picky compared to the DE on even the simplest things like spark plugs. I'm going to post my plug experience this weekend.
. Hope it gets better...
