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Just wondering what would happen if my cam switchover electronics fritzed out at 8K RPM and cut out the high cam. Would running on the low cam at that speed be disasterous?
At max RPM even? I know the lift is lower, but would the valves float or could the lifters get flung due to the ramp angles?
I've seen people dyno with just the low cams engaged and with the high cams only just to see the crossover points... so I would have assumed they ran the car near redline with just the low cams.
Did the cams switch from high to low at 8K rpm, or just not engage when it should have?!?
No experience yet, but I'm just trying to see how bulletproof the switching system needs to be.
I'd think that it's not quite like running on DE stock cams, which would not be happy at 8K I'd think. The VE small cams must be smaller than DE cams, right?
I'd hate to be zipping along at max revs and then have the high cams drop out and fire the valves through the pistons as a result! :^)
No experience yet, but I'm just trying to see how bulletproof the switching system needs to be.
I'd think that it's not quite like running on DE stock cams, which would not be happy at 8K I'd think. The VE small cams must be smaller than DE cams, right?
I'd hate to be zipping along at max revs and then have the high cams drop out and fire the valves through the pistons as a result! :^)
_SHig
actually the low cams and stock de cams are pretty close.... but dont worry so much
Standard SR20VE low cams and DE cams are all but the same. I regually reved my DE round to 7000rpm, and I've had her bouncing the rev limiter in all gear but 5th... You will have absolutly no problems giving the VE low cams the same abuse. The only differnce will be you'll be pushing out only 150ish bhp instad of 180ish...
My ECU fault caused the solenoids to 'flutter' (rapidly switch on & off) one night at about 8,000rpm. Gave me a hell of a fright but as far as I can tell, didn't damage anything.
My ECU fault caused the solenoids to 'flutter' (rapidly switch on & off) one night at about 8,000rpm. Gave me a hell of a fright but as far as I can tell, didn't damage anything.
Holy $HIT! That'd make me soil my shorts!
Okay, I DEFINITELY never want to experience that...
kinda related, is is bad to ride at the switch point rpm, where the solenoid kinda flicks on and off.
thats why its good to have a mss, you can control wether or not it switches using the tps as well... good for "passing on the highway" get in gear, cruis at the proper rpm, say 4500 then when you floor it, it will instantly switch, instead of on/off on /off
__________________ KL0 P11 Sport
VE, JWT Pop Charger, Carbing: Tri-FSTB RSTB LCA Bar, SS Autochrome Header, Greddy Evo, Rear sway bar
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