A community of enthusiasts dedicated to Nissan's SR20DE/SR20VE/SR20DET engines.
Start here: forum search. Be sure to search on what you're looking for before posting a new thread.
You are currently browsing the forum as a guest. In order to access special features, the image gallery, and post you will need to be a registered member. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the administrator.
What wire is the ground and which one is the signal...
also i need the same info for the other idle sensor on the ve manifold
__________________ KL0 P11 Sport
VE, JWT Pop Charger, Carbing: Tri-FSTB RSTB LCA Bar, SS Autochrome Header, Greddy Evo, Rear sway bar
------------ Surround Sound My VE thread
The diagram is one for my GT that I've modified to for the VE engine. The VVL actuators and EGR valve & idle speed vale are all feed from the same 10amp fuse as the O2 senser. I found the best place to take the feed from the actuators from is the O2 feed.
The returns are as follows:-
VVL intake - Orange/Black wire to pin 102
VVL exhaust - L Green/Red wire to pin 106
EGR valve - Pink to pin 114
Idle speed valve - Sky Blue to pin 113
The diagram shows the wrong pin locations for the exhaust actuator and EGR valve. I'll correct it later tonight...
Last edited by stracyznski : 06-01-2007 at 10:34 AM.
ok i got it for the one sensor which is the one for the brown plug
what are the purple plug? i'm not in front of my car so I dunno
do you need both plugged in to work?
what i really need, is not what wire goes where to the ecu, I really only need what pin/wire form the sensor does what... my wiring is semi custom...
Last edited by civicdragon : 06-01-2007 at 10:42 AM.
It will run as I've had mine unpluged for a short while while running it up after the swap. However, I wouldn't like to say how it would run if left unpluged for any length of time...
As for the wires. Browns are feed, and the colours are the returns. Although all they are working is just an actuator switch so it dosn't really matter which way round they go...
It will run as I've had mine unpluged for a short while while running it up after the swap. However, I wouldn't like to say how it would run if left unpluged for any length of time...
As for the wires. Browns are feed, and the colours are the returns. Although all they are working is just an actuator switch so it dosn't really matter which way round they go...
hmm i dunno about that, i think if you switch them, then instead of lowering idle when its warm itll raise it lol, someone in another thread was sayign something like that is happening to him...
but this is great once I figure out my clutch issue I'll work on the idle, i know which wires to grab from the ecu harness to make it work
Ignore all of that about the pink wire. I'm talking complete bollocks. I had in my mind something else...
Anyway, I've got home and had a look at my engine and see what you're on about now. The perple plug with (in my engine) a blue/red wire and blue/yellow wire...
Well, I've tracked the blue/yellow wire. It returns to the ecu via the A/C return into pin 45...
Still working on the Blue/red wire...
Blue/red wire runs down to the A/C pump single wire connector...
Not having it connected will have absolutley no effect on the engine as long as you don't use the A/C...
Bumping this - would anyone know what the effect would be if the wires were reversed?
__________________
My real name is Kyle
2002 Maxima SE (6MT) -Drop-in K&N and a brand new longblock VQ35
1994 G20 - SR20VE, JWT pop, SSAC 2.5", 2.5" VRS catback
