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Cool idea if you want to be able to move the engine around.
By the way, if you plan on keeping the A/C and swap the compressor from the B15 motor, you will need to swap the bracket that bolts it to the block as well.
I do, thanks for the heads up. That's the kind of info I need, it's a bit harder to find little details on B15 swaps.
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"Everybody can relax, I found the car. Needs some suspension work and shocks. Brakes, brake pads, lining, steering box, transmission, rear-end. "
Thanks. Your post just doubled the views of the thread.
The motor looks great so far. Cali guys may get bent over with emissions tests but when it comes to being able to actually turn a bolt out without having to cut its' rusty a55 off is a bonus. This motor is a breeze, probably never had a salt bath before. Well, that's going to change soon. Maybe it's time to move to Japan, mmm sushi.
I do, thanks for the heads up. That's the kind of info I need, it's a bit harder to find little details on B15 swaps.
Some of the little details should actually be easier for you - such as the Throttle cable and throttle cable/bracket - I believe yours will fit perfectly, as well as the distributor.
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My real name is Kyle
2002 Maxima SE (6MT) -Drop-in K&N and a brand new longblock VQ35
1994 G20 - SR20VE, JWT pop, SSAC 2.5", 2.5" VRS catback
Some of the little details should actually be easier for you - such as the Throttle cable and throttle cable/bracket - I believe yours will fit perfectly, as well as the distributor.
Yes, the throttle cable will fit very well. You just have to adjust the screw a bit so you can make the wire a bit longer, but it is well within the adjustment range.
As for the dist, you have to grind the lower ear off and just use the top screw, just like you would with a B14 distributor.
Otherwise, you will be off by 180 degrees.
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Matt
2001 Sentra SE/pp (SR20VE powered) Trac Racing Depot
Yes, the throttle cable will fit very well. You just have to adjust the screw a bit so you can make the wire a bit longer, but it is well within the adjustment range.
As for the dist, you have to grind the lower ear off and just use the top screw, just like you would with a B14 distributor.
Otherwise, you will be off by 180 degrees.
Yeah I guess I was a bit vague - I was referring to the plugs interfering w/ the solenoids.
Cool idea if you want to be able to move the engine around.
By the way, if you plan on keeping the A/C and swap the compressor from the B15 motor, you will need to swap the bracket that bolts it to the block as well.
The VE came with the same AC bracket as my DE. The steering pump and alternator brackets were also the same.
Warm compression test before swap. (1) 80-170 psi varied, (2) 175 psi, (3) 175 psi, (4) 165 psi. The pic is of #1 (front).
Broke off a stud while removing the hood. Drill and use a J clip or go carbon fiber?
Intake and battery out. All points on the engine harness disconnected from the body and ECU out and ready for connector hork.
Oh wait, a stroke of Nissan genius. Let's make connectors so you can detach every bit of engine harness from the body, but we'll leave one bundle going into the firewall with no way to disconnect it. A55hats.
Well hello Mr. Sidecutter. I'll find some connectors to do this up right.
Ready to drop.
So 4 hours later I finally get the (2) bolts out for each strut tower so I can remove the axles. Friggen alignment shop must have used a 10' breaker bar to install them. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!
Sunday
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Axles out, AC and power steering removed from block and out of the way. Ready to drop.
Good friends, good times.
Green cherry.
Hmmm, which to choose.
The funniest thing. I was bringing my Grandma home from the hospital and she said she liked the sound of my exhaust, that it sounded like a sports car. Well, she was bored so I got her out for some fresh air.
Almost home.
Parked. Time for sleep.
Monday
=======================
VEry good morning.
Cleaned up a bit. Installed AC and PS pump/compressor and shift linkage.
That last pic of the VVL sticker needs to become your Avatar... Good photography right there....
Question, on dropping it out the bottom... would you recommend doing that again??
Cheers-
Erich
Inspiration FTW on the pic.
I'd do it that way again, and did it that way to raise the VE in. I've dropped just the tranny before and it's some work in and of itself. Out the top with both is asking for trouble. Just the motor out the top might be easier than dropping but the benefit of dropping the motor and tranny at the same time is worth the extra work of dropping. If I had to do it by myself I'd go out the top dropping the tranny first. Both of those steps are doable with one person, a floor jack and hoist/picker.
The challenge dropping it was clearing the steering rack tube and getting the AC compressor out of the way. Removing the intake plenum and runners would have made the drop painless and you won't have to lift the Sentra as high, but that's lost time unless you're gonna part the DE anyway. I almost went out the top but couldn't get the motor with tranny out and didn't want to unbolt the tranny at that point. Might have gotten it eventually but dropping it was much easier.
1. Jack the Sentra as high as your floor jack can go and then prop with safety stands
2. Support motor with picker and lower to hand cart.
3. Place right and left mount pins in and wrap towing strap through and connect to picker.
4. Show the Sentra what the sky looks like.
5. Lift Sentra and easily roll DE out.
High level of control and accuracy with this method. A helping hand is a must, you never have enough eyes. Keep a close one on the PS tubing, AC compressor and steering pump and you have no problems. Took the radiator and fans out first so I could pull the motor forward to clear the PS tubes. I've moved more than a Mongolian so I had a few hand carts at my disposal, nice, very nice.
Maybe it's time to move to Japan, mmm sushi.
