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Here's my current setup:
20VE
N1s
CS Gears +5/-5
GSpec Pulley
Fidanza Flywheel
BC Springs
SSAC
Calum
4 Bar
3" Exhaust
Outlaw Spacers
3" CAI
DE TB
DE MAF
BTW, switching both cams at 4500 RPM.
So based on a 10% "calibration factor" between Mustang and Dynojet, I'm safely over the 200hp bar with the engine. I think the AFR is pretty close, so all I have left to tweak is header ($$$$ - maybe I'll build one for fun...), Maxima MAF (that may fix the high RPM tail off in torque), and timing/ECU tuning.
Any idea? I was running a CAI so the short ram intake has been said to give more power, again more up top where I need to fill out my torque curve and make more max HP.
I think without getting a freak header, I should be able to get another 5-10 HP right?
Nice vid, do you have a resonator? Mine sounds almost identical. I take it their was a large difference in sound with the N1's?
Thanks,
Dudeman
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1991 SE-R
"I've decided that because Einstein identified that objects travel through time at a slower rate with an increasing velocity, we should go as fast as possible to increase our lifespan."
That ~6500 to 7600rpm dip in the torque curve mirrors the AFR trend to richen up. EXACTLY the same rpm band that my 1.6 with N1 Cams on carburettors is richening up. The curves look near identical. Just for comparrison I have my AFRs pretty tight between 12.8 and 13.2:1 so it's richer than yours, but interestingly that the EFI and Carbs are responding to the N1 Cams in the same way.
Also with the +5 / -5 timing your power curve should extend past 8300rpm. Dialed straight up on the 1.6 the N1s are making power straight up to 8600rpm before fallling off.
I know alot has been said for 3in, but do you think that smaller may be better?
between the local mustang dyno vs the local dynojet. ive seen a 5% difference in whp. i think on a dynojet your motot will do 185whp. that big jump after 7.5k is just from lifting off the throttle..
between the local mustang dyno vs the local dynojet. ive seen a 5% difference in whp. i think on a dynojet your motot will do 185whp. that big jump after 7.5k is just from lifting off the throttle..
Might be different here.. My turbo car made 60 less hp than it did on a local dynojet (with more mods this time).
between the local mustang dyno vs the local dynojet. ive seen a 5% difference in whp. i think on a dynojet your motot will do 185whp. that big jump after 7.5k is just from lifting off the throttle..
The car pulled 187.3 after calibrations (on the non-chart page) so I'm easily pushing the 200 WHP dynojet. The jump at 7.5 can't be lift though '*** I floored it until the 9k rev cut.
between the local mustang dyno vs the local dynojet. ive seen a 5% difference in whp. i think on a dynojet your motot will do 185whp. that big jump after 7.5k is just from lifting off the throttle..
The car pulled 187.3 after calibrations (on the non-chart page) so I'm easily pushing the 200 WHP dynojet. The jump at 7.5 can't be lift though because I floored it until the 9k rev cut.
It's a 2-stage bike rev limiter, but works great for this. It's a "soft" cut that gradually kills spark. Probably not good for extended use on a car with a cat. May cause meltage!
Got it cheap on Ebay. I've been wanting to crack it open so I can tweak down the high limit knob so I can use it in true dual stage setting. As is, I'm currently just using the low knob full time jumpering out the clutch pedal switch.
Here's my current setup:
20VE
N1s
CS Gears +5/-5
GSpec Pulley
Fidanza Flywheel
BC Springs
SSAC
Calum 4 Bar
3" Exhaust
Outlaw Spacers
3" CAI
DE TB
DE MAF
Hope so. I installed one this week and have a Calum BIN to match, but I'm not sure if the file is good or not yet. I also went from CAI to WAI with a BLOX intake velocity stack:
Sounds fierce at the lobe switch. Is this an E model?
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"Does it matter if the door handle lasts 10 years or 20?" Pelata says. "No it does not, because the person will not have the car after 10 years."
-Enjoying my old school nissan quality, day after day
