A community of enthusiasts dedicated to Nissan's SR20DE/SR20VE/SR20DET engines.
Start here: forum search. Be sure to search on what you're looking for before posting a new thread.
You are currently browsing the forum as a guest. In order to access special features, the image gallery, and post you will need to be a registered member. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the administrator.
I drive a 2002 G20 Sport.
I bought a Remus Exhaust back in December.
It's the direct bolt on (2.25" I think), not the universal.
Well, Remus seriously lags and I'm supposed to get the exhaust in mid March.
In between then and now I decided I was going to join the VE 200+WHP Club.
So I have been gathering up my parts in anticipation of the swap.
N1 Cams, BC S/R, SSAC 2.5", etc.....
Now I'm afraid this bolt on Remus will keep me from hitting 200+WHP.
Is it possible to keep this exhaust and still get 200+WHP?
I'd hate to have to turn around and sell the exhaust, it cos me a lot of dough and it's beautiful.
Second question is, if this Remus is too restrictive, could I get a Rev3 inlet version?
Last edited by Krist : 02-26-2008 at 01:31 PM.
Reason: Changed 220+WHP to 200+WHP.
My bad, I meant 200 not 220.
Wouldn't 3" have too much back pressure?
I thought 2.5" all the way back was best for VE+N1.
I doubt you'd see much gains before the cams switch so it would be interesting if you could set it up so it opens at cam switching though.
Shouldn't be too hard.
I'd prefer not to have a cutout though.
This is my daily driver and police here in SoCal will pull me over in a heart beat!
This sucker will be loud enough when the cams kick in with WOT and a POP Charger.
My bad, I meant 200 not 220.
Wouldn't 3" have too much back pressure?
I thought 2.5" all the way back was best for VE+N1.
I doubt you'd see much gains before the cams switch so it would be interesting if you could set it up so it opens at cam switching though.
Shouldn't be too hard.
I'd prefer not to have a cutout though.
This is my daily driver and police here in SoCal will pull me over in a heart beat!
This sucker will be loud enough when the cams kick in with WOT and a POP Charger.
For you probably 2-1/2" would be the best compromise. Get the biggest resonator and muffler you can fit under there. I know Martin was damn close to 200 whp with his 2-1/2" on SR16s so it's doable.
3" has essentially NO backpressure I'd think in N/A tune!
Cutout at cam switch would rock! Mild to wild for sure...
On my P10 VE build (stock cams for now) I'm going to stick to my 2.25" setup and Altima muffler and see what I lose to my bells 'n whistles B13 and see how it compares.
The larger you go in diameter the less back pressure.
VE's don't mind this because of their unoriginal porting design. A 3inch will net best top end and no loss in torque anywhere.
Mine is not loud to me, if you aren't sure there are hundreds of posts with videos on this forum, including a few of mine as well, go find em...
GL,
Dudeman
__________________
Looking for a shell
1991 SE-R
"I've decided that because Einstein identified that objects travel through time at a slower rate with an increasing velocity, we should go as fast as possible to increase our lifespan."
Well, I really like the Remus so if I don't use my bolt on I'd want to use a Rev3.
I guess we can just wait and see.
As far as the 3" back, wouldn't you need a custom 4-1 header for that set up?
I assume going from a SSAC 2.5" to 3" back wouldn't do much as the SSAC would be the bottleneck, right?
I don't know, things like that sound logical in my head but there are other factors like resonance and stuff that my brain doesn't calculate.
Kinda like the AEM CAI that goes 2.5" to MAF to 3" to ITB.
Custom 4-1 is best for max power, but SSAC + 3" will make more power than SSAC + 2.5". Every little bit of flow restriction hurts, not just the biggest restriction...
What about the CAT?
I think my CAT is 2.25".
So it would go 2.5" SSAC -> 3" pipe -> 2.25" Cat -> 3" pipe -> Remus (what ever size it is)?
And that would be fine?
And please correct me if the size on the CAT is incorrect.
What about the CAT?
I think my CAT is 2.25".
So it would go 2.5" SSAC -> 3" pipe -> 2.25" Cat -> 3" pipe -> Remus (what ever size it is)?
And that would be fine?
And please correct me if the size on the CAT is incorrect.
The stock cat is 2.75" and flows really well. For max power, it'd make sense to have the center section 3" because the exhaust gas is hottest and therefore flowing at the max velocity right out of the cat. As the gasses cool towards the tailpipe, it slows down (how much, I don't know).
So you'd have 2.5" SSAC to 2.75" cat to 3" pipe to 3" resonator to 3" pipe to Remus.
For less noise, however, 2.5" out of the cat, through a resonator, and out the Remus would be better...
Okay, I see.
Resonator?
There's not a stock one that I know of or are you saying I should get one?
I wasn't planning on having a resonator, the Remus sound should be fine as is. me thinks.
Nope, you should have a perforated resonator to keep from being raspy/ricy/roud. Remus only and VE with no res will probably make you less than happy...
Hey SHig, just saw some piping mentioned on the gnet forum.
Here's a link.
Sounds like it goes from CAT to Muffler.
So no stock resonator?
What is that bulge on the stock piping where it goes from the middle to the side?
Got a link to a good resonator?
Cutout at cam switch would rock! Mild to wild for sure...
_SHig
I just got an idea.
LMK if it would work.
The Greddy MSS can handle only two lines.
Generally for VVL users, one for intake solenoid, one for exhaust.
You think you can piggy back a cutout onto the exhaust line?
So the Greddy will kick the exhaust cam and cutout at the same time.
Or do you think there would be an electrical issue with that.
I just got an idea.
LMK if it would work.
The Greddy MSS can handle only two lines.
Generally for VVL users, one for intake solenoid, one for exhaust.
You think you can piggy back a cutout onto the exhaust line?
So the Greddy will kick the exhaust cam and cutout at the same time.
Or do you think there would be an electrical issue with that.
That'd be no problem if you used a relay to drive each.
