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Here is a picture I took of the VE distributor during my install. It shows the changeover from B14 DE to VE wiring.
The VE harness is a single 8 wire harness while the DE has a 2 wire harness and a 6 wire harness. The 2 wire harness are wires 6 & 8 which are shielded in a thick grey loom.
8 wires (left side is VE distributor - right side is DE harness)
1. solid green - solid green
2. solid black - thick solid black
3. thick solid white w/orange stripe - solid black w/orange stripe
4. thin solid white w/orange stripe - solid white w/orange stripe
5. black w/white stripe - thin solid black
6. black w/white stripe - shielded black w/white stripe
7. orange w/white stripe - white w/black stripe
8. blue - shielded blue
Here is the VE distributor wiring diagram:
click on picture for larger view
__________________
Chuck Nibbana
Retired VE owner
Forever an SE-R owner at heart
2005 BMW M3
All we need now is the B13 to VE dist wire match and we can post these things into the sticky section. Thanks CNibbana. Ok Shoe59 and BigTom you are the guys with the B13 to VE hookup, so I am calling you guys out to do your SR20DEForum.com civic duties. Anyone seeing this post lets help get one of these guys to post this info.
Thanks Andreas Miko
__________________
If you need any help with your car and you cant solve the problem, call me at 305-282-3643
Overcome With Love And Life, With Truth and Right, So Seek Happiness Before Vengence
i have all the info on this. there are two different plugs for a ve each has the wires in the same place but the colors are different. i will put together the info on rewire for b14 and b13 and put it in a graphic so it can be posted. the resistor must be removed on b13 and b14 because it is internal in the ve dist and will cause too much resistance.
Assuming you use the B13 or B14 distributor instead of the VE distributor. Nothing other than the rewiring needs to be done if you use the VE distributor.
Quote:
Originally posted by bigtom the resistor must be removed on b13 and b14 because it is internal in the ve dist and will cause too much resistance.
Originally posted by 98sr20ve Did you get a chance to get the wiring diagram for the B13. I know someone who could use it and needs some help.
If I did the wiring myself, the information would have been posted long ago. I've been after my mechanic for weeks trying to get him to do a write up. Now that race season is almost over I'll ride his ass to get it done.
For all those reading this I think a good option is to just use the DE distributor that came with your car. Then you can easily get caps/rotor/wires. No need to go to Japan.
the resistor should be removed if you use the ve distributor. if you remove th resistor from the b13 or b14 distributor setup there would be a more serious problem. the ve has an internal resistor in the distributor. the old external one doesnt have to be removed for the car to run but it is the right way to rewire for the ve distributor.
Great detail, I note that you are using the VE distributor by re-wiring, all other documents detail grinding of DE distributor body. I am at this stage in my project here in the UK, please advise latest thinking, I have everything, two harnesses,two ECU's two Motors. I'd like to use as much VE stuff as possible because its newer (20k miles versus 120k miles) but accept that the whole harness is impractical.
Can I extract solenoid activation wires, splice distributor wires and use the VE ecu?
Any guidance much appreciated, I'm by myself here in the UK no other VE's around.
Thanks Paul
Quote:
Originally Posted by CNibbana
Here is a picture I took of the VE distributor during my install. It shows the changeover from B14 DE to VE wiring.
The VE harness is a single 8 wire harness while the DE has a 2 wire harness and a 6 wire harness. The 2 wire harness are wires 6 & 8 which are shielded in a thick grey loom.
8 wires (left side is VE distributor - right side is DE harness)
1. solid green - solid green
2. solid black - thick solid black
3. thick solid white w/orange stripe - solid black w/orange stripe
4. thin solid white w/orange stripe - solid white w/orange stripe
5. black w/white stripe - thin solid black
6. black w/white stripe - shielded black w/white stripe
7. orange w/white stripe - white w/black stripe
8. blue - shielded blue
Here is the VE distributor wiring diagram:
click on picture for larger view
Most people have modified the DE distributor simply because it is so hard and expensive to replace the VE distributor. I was one of the first to do the conversion, and modifying the DE distributor didn't even cross my mind. I immediately went for rewiring.
Thanks for your prompt reply. I've compared DE harness wire colours and they don't match your write-up, obviously different in the UK. I can however work it out from the wiring diagram. I've done some translation of the supplied japanese picture, rationalised - guess work using my UK "Haynes" manual, this is available for you and other VE people but it is a 300K jpeg.
Interestingly I find that there is not much difference in pin-outs, so I'm going to have a go a the DE loom mated to the VE ECU.
So to use the VE distributor, you have to remove that internal resistor? What happens if you dont remove it and use it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigtom
the resistor should be removed if you use the ve distributor. if you remove th resistor from the b13 or b14 distributor setup there would be a more serious problem. the ve has an internal resistor in the distributor. the old external one doesnt have to be removed for the car to run but it is the right way to rewire for the ve distributor.
So to use the VE distributor, you have to remove that internal resistor? What happens if you dont remove it and use it.
My question is why do you want to use the VE distributor? None of the parts for it match US parts. The DE distributor works just fine, and doesn't require modding the wiring harness.
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1996 200SX SE-R VE powered
1991 Sentra SE-R
2004 Subaru Forester turbo
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX
Short answer, I don't know why I had to remove the resistor but it was easy to find in the loom. I just followed the Forum's recommendation. Why do I use the VE distributor? The VE motor had done circa 10K miles, my DE had done 95K miles. I wouldn't want to put an old tired Distributor on a "new" motor. In addition the VE distributor is a more electrically precise instrument - newer tech compared to the 1997 DE. Take a look inside, most performance and economy improvements in the last 10 years have been from ignition and ECU work. Why would you choose to fit old technology?
It's approx 12 inches from the ECU termination block towards the Distributor, a 1 inch plastic block with carbon innard and a value on the outside, coloured green if I remember correctly.
I had the whole loom on a table and traced and unravelled it.
I think people don't want to use the DE dizzy because its in there tight. I think a better alternative to the VE dizzy is to get a B15 DE dizzy. The plug is in the same spot as the VE dizzy but you don't have to rewire.
