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This is a ongoing question. I have not done one myself so I am not the one to do it. If you look in the faq you can see one I have written. It doesn't need to be that detailed. But it needs to cover the distributor, MAF, TB issues.
When I did the swap into Ltrain's 94 SE-R, it was relatively easy.
1. The distributor needs to have the lower half (where the bottom bolt holds the distributor to the block cut off to clear a "lump" on the VE head. Basicly, just keep grinding until the distributor seats properly flush against the head taking care not to remove more metal than necessary.
You have to hook up the ignitor coil and what looks to be some sort of resistor/chip. The VE has a similar distributor to that of the B14, internal coil and all. So you obviously must swap over all of the B13 distributor stuff. On the B13, if you look at the distributor from the passenger side, directly to the right is the ignitor, and directly to the right of that is the resistor/chip. Both have their own little bracket to bolt onto the head. You will need to fabricate your own bracket to hold up the ignitor, the resistor/chip can be bolted up to an existing hole in the head.
Be sure that your dist. doesn't leak any oil out: i.e. make sure the one bolt holding it in is nice and tight.
2. For the MAF, I just used the VE MAF and pigtail harness that came with his motor. I am led to believe that this is the same MAF in certain Pathfinders/Maximas. Wiring this up was very straightforward. If you look closely at each MAF where the harness connects, you will see that each pin that the harness is connected to is labeled; A, B, and C. Should memory serve me correctly, B is the white ground wire on both MAF's. Just match up the right "A" wire on the B13 harness to the right "A" wire on the VE harness and the same with the "C" wire. The colors on "As" and "Cs" don't match, so I won't even try to remember what colors went where. So, cut off the clip on the B13 harness, and solder in the clip from the VE/Pathfinder/Maxima harness. Plug it into your new MAF and you are good to go there. As Aaron mentions below, *** the harness as close the to DE clip as possible because the wires are shielded.
3. TB: I initially kept the VE throttle body on the motor. The gas pedal cable hooked up fine, but we quickly realized that there was no place to hook up the Cruise control cable. Also, the adjustment on the butterfly plate of the TB was waaaay off, causing the motor to idle at 1700rpm or so until we played with the adjusting nut on the throttle drum. I would recommend just bolting up the DE TB if you plan on using cruise, otherwise just let it be. We kept the stock TPS on there since it did not look like you could transplant the DE TPS onto it. Your TPS harness will hook up fine to the VE TPS, I believe it was the top of the two connections. Linus, you can chime in here since you can see your car readily.
4. IACV and AAC: The DE and the VE IACV's were slightly different, and didn't look like they would bolt up right, so I kept the VE IACV on there. The VE AAC on the VE IACV had a different connector, so I simply unscrewed the AAC from the IACV and swapped it for the DE one so that the DE harness could plug right in. You could hack into the wiring harness again to keep the VE AAC, but its not necessary.
5. Knock sensor: I kept the JDM one since it was probably newer and less beat up than the stock DE one.
6. VVL wiring: I don't remember exactly how this went, I was following a diagram drawn up by 92nx2k. However, in his diagram he drew the RPM signal from a wire coming off of the ECU. I chose not to be bent upside down on the inside of the car and instead used the FSM to find the RPM signal off of the distributor. Its the same one you use to hook up an aftermarket tach, I believe it was a white and green wire. Basically, there were 2 rpm switches (Summit racing boxes), each one activated a relay, which in turn activated a cam solenoid. The relays completed the ground when the switch clicked them "on" causing the cams to switch to the "motherlobes"
edit 7. Heater hoses: This will need some modification too. The inlets and outlets on the DE are smaller and in different locations than the VE hoses. This is also pretty straightforward, it just requires a trip to Napa/Advanced Auto Parts to get some heater hose and I believe it was two 1/2" to 5/8" hose adapters. We got the adapter from the Grassroots racer store, Home Depot and reused some of the stock hose from the VE because the local Pep Boys didn't have the hoses we needed. Run the top hose from the heater core (the longer one) to the passenger side of the VE. When the 1/2" hose comes to an end, throw an adapter on there and finish it off with the 5/8" hose and hook it up to the motor. Do the same thing for the lower core hose and run it to the closer nipple using the same method. Oh, don't forget to buy a bunch of clamps! You should need 6 of them, IIRC.
Other than that, the swap was very straightforward and just like a JDM SR20DE swap, barring some unexpected detours, right L!? Hope this helps. Contrary to what Linus will tell you, I don't have a 24 hour assistance line, but you can PM me with any questions!
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Chris '91 VVL-powered SE-R SOLD
VE! Koni/GC's, Apexi, Progress, Crown, Carbotech, ACT, GSpec, Fidanza, VDO, Nismo, and other goodies '04 G35 6MT
Other than that, the swap was very straightforward and just like a JDM SR20DE swap, barring some unexpected detours, right L!? Hope this helps.
You took the words right out of my mouth. SLOW night at work today? Good job Chris.
Like Chris stated, we used the DE ignition stuff for two reasons:
1) We didn;t have any directions or diagrams to go by to wire the VE Dist on the VE. (for a B13 that is)
2)We weren't sure of the life of the current ignition setup parts ie. cap, rotor, etc. So if something could've happened where we needed to change them I wouldn;t have to wait months to get parts from japan. I am thinking of replacing it with the VE dist. when I get some details on what needs to be connected and stuff. Also, after I have a source to order a spare set of JDM tune up parts.
Oh yeah, about grinding the Dist. The b13 dist bolt hole (the area that you grind down does not line up on the VE block IIRC. So in essence you will have one bolt (top bolt) holding the distributor in. At least that's how it is on mine. I am hoping to get a chance to figure out how to wire up the VE dist.
Another note on the cable guide. If you 'have a B13 without cruise you can just use the VE cable guide below the intake. I believe you can adjust it and use that without any modifications. If you do have cruise and want to keep it, then go with the DE TB and save your DE cable guide brackets so you can fabricate soemthing or you can go Steve foltz way and buy angle stock and fabricate away. i don''t think that there is a specific position on where to put the guides as each cars' throttle cable may be more stretched out than others. So slack may not be in the same areas as other cars. Just use your best judgement.
There were other little things with vaccuum and breather lines. But nothing you can't figure out on your own.
Any other questions PM me and I can give you Nismoser's personal 24 hour tech support line number.
Might as well take this opportunity again to thank the guys on this forum who helped by generously giving their time and effort with this swap whether you were there or not . I couldn't have done it without you guys.
I hope future swaps will be better documented than my poor attempt. It's hard to take pictures when you are busy scratching your head and swearing. Hopefully, your next VE swap will have a lot less of this .
HAHAHA! Oh Yeah one last warning. MOST if not all sr20ve's (as in the common 190hp version) have a FLEXPLATE because they are automatics. They do not have a flywheel! SO.... do not use the bolts from the VE flexplate to bolt up your flywheel! They are look identical except that they are TOO SHORT. Use the flywheel bolts from your DE or get some new ones from a Nissan parts dealer. I am sure guys who have done JDM swaps with auto JDM motors know this too. Ask me how I know.
SEND PICS OF YOUR VE SWAP TO CHRISCAR FOR OFFICIAL CERTIFICATION.
-Linus
__________________ VVL
Former '94 SE-R w/ VE owner....made Chriscar a deal he couldn't refuse. "Relax, alright? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I CAN FIX IT."
Here's one that that was left out about the throttle body. If you have a high port motor with cruise, you need to find a low port throttle body. On the high port motors, the cables don't hook directly to the throttle body. There is a ball and socket rod that connects the throttle body to the cable assembly.
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1996 200SX SE-R VE powered
2004 Subaru Forester turbo
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX
eric - not true. i used my 92 DE throttle body for a couple of months it just takes some creative wrenching. but a low port tb would work better. however...i dont see why people arent just using the VE one? makes alot more sense.
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1993 NX2000 - NEO VVL SR20VE - WAI - Custom 2.5 Catback - NGK Plugs & Wires - KYB AGX / Eibach Sportlines - 15" Kosei K1 Wheels Wrapped in 205-50-15 Sumitomo's - Fidanza 8.5lb. Flywheel - ACT HDPP w/ Street Disc - Full ES Bushing Kit & Motor Mounts - B&M Short Throw - Progress Technology Rear Swaybar - Summit Racing VVL Activation - GO NEO!
1) - that chip is the power transistor unit, just getting technical.
2) - be careful how much wire you cut when you cut the DE maf clip off. one of the wires is a sheilded wire and you dont want to cut down that far. cut as close to the clip as you can.
3) - about the iac valve...i would just leave the valves in tact. no need to pull anything off of the DE motor for this. the clips from the de will not line up. each clip has 2 wires. you can use the pigtails from the VE sensors, and cut and solder the wires, my motor didnt come with pigtails. so i just filed the ears away on the sensor that the plug clips into, the ears that line it up. file them off and your clips will plug right into the new sensors.
3) - the reason i chose the ecu wire to run the switches from is i thought it would be the most accurate reading since this is what the ecu was reading and what you see when you plug in a consult. some tachs are not always accurate. i dont know. come to think of it either would work fine i guess.
eric - not true. i used my 92 DE throttle body for a couple of months it just takes some creative wrenching. but a low port tb would work better. however...i dont see why people arent just using the VE one? makes alot more sense.
The low port is a direct fit. The VE TB doesn't have a place for cruise control, so if you want to keep it, you have to use a different TB.
the point was it can be done with a highport tb. a lowport works better. the VE works EVEN better. my nx didnt come with cruise control so it wasnt an issue for me anyway.
if anyone would like a summit switch diagram for wiring let me know ill fab one up.
Hey Aaron,
I think that you should go ahead and make that diagram nice if you got the time. It may help some people out alot. I know it helped Chris and I. I would scan mine but it's got oil on it and it is about to fall apart . I am sure the folks who are getting ready to do the VE swap may find it very helpful whether they use the Summit switches or not.
eric - no need to swap tps. all you need to do is use the top half of the tps since there are twi plugs.i havent swapped anything and mine idles great.
steve - yes the ve TB plugs DIRECTLY into the de harness
Another note which will be obvious when you compare them yourself is that the VE TB is a bit bigger too.
The VE TB also has another opening adjustment unterneath the main butterfly spring which can be adjusted by unlocking it with a hex key and then turning the nut.
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Good job Chris. 
VVL 
