HOW TO: Check ignition switch and relays easily - SR20 Forum
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Old 01-04-2005, 12:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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HOW TO: Check ignition switch and relays easily

Since I spent the time to check this all out in the FSM to help another forum member with his problem, I thought I'd make better use of my time by sharing it with the community. So here's the simplest way to check out your ignition switch and relays:

With the ignition switch to ACC, try operating your power mirrors and your windshield wipers. Do the same with the key in the ON position. If those work in one key position but not the other, then your ignition switch is bad. If they donít work at all then itís probably the Accessory relay. But to be sure, check to see if the other relays are operating. With the ignition switch ON, try operating your turn signals and your rear window defroster. If they donít work then it could be your ignition switch or Ignition 1 relay. With the ignition switch to ON, see if your blower fan will operate. If not it could be your ignition switch or the Ignition 2 relay. Lastly, if you have a sunroof, turn the key to ON and try to operate it. If not, then that relay could be bad, which would in turn not allow Ignition relay 2 to operate.

To check the relayís you need to pull your driver's side lower dash panel out. Next to your fuse block are 3 relays, 4 if you have rear defrost. The very bottom relay is your Ignition 1 relay, and the one right above it is the Accessory relay and the one above that Ignition 2 relay. Ignition 3 relay/Sunroof relay, should be located under the passengerís side kick panel.

Start with Ignition 1 relay, then Accessory, Ignition 2 relay and lastly Ignition 3 relay/Sunroof relay.

How to check the relays and their circuits:

Pull the relay out and youíll see that there are two terminals on the relay that are close together and two that are further apart from each other. Except the brown relays, which have 6 terminals, 4 that are close together and two that are further apart. Using the two that are further apart, connect one of them to ground and one of them to 12 volts and listen to hear if the relay clicks. If not then the relay is bad. If it does click, then use a voltmeter set to ohmís or continuity, and touch one probe each to the two terminals that are close together. Now operate the relay again and see if you get continuity (zero ohms resistance) when the relay is on, and no continuity (infinite ohms) when the relay is off. If that checks out then the relay is good.

To check the circuit, remove the relay and use a meter to check at the terminals where the relay plugs in. How you check it depends on which relay youíre checking.

Ignition relay 1: The bottom right terminal should have voltage when the ignition switch is ON and Start positions, if not the ignition switch is bad. The upper right terminal should be grounded all the time. The bottom left terminal should have voltage all the time, if not, then you probably have a blown fusible link, the one right after the battery positive.

Accessory relay: The upper right terminal should have voltage when the ignition switch is in the ACC and ON positions, if not, the ignition switch is bad. The bottom right terminal should be grounded all the time. The bottom left terminal should have voltage all the time, if not, then you probably have a blown fusible link, the one right after the battery positive.


Ignition relay 2: The bottom right terminal should have voltage when the ignition switch is in the ACC and ON positions, if not, the ignition switch is bad. The upper right terminal should be grounded when the ignition switch is in the ON and Start positions, if not, then the Ignition 3 relay/Sunroof relay could be bad or has a bad ground. The top left terminal should have voltage all the time, if not, then you probably have a blown fusible link, the one right after the battery positive.

Ignition relay 3/sunroof relay: Two terminals should have continuity to ground at all times. One should have voltage present with the ignition in the On/Start positions.
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Last edited by Toolapcfan; 01-04-2005 at 01:07 PM.
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Old 11-29-2005, 08:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Is it safe to say if a relay is working for "A" it will work for "B" as well and vise versa? Say I know that the Blue Relay works for the fog lights it must also work in any other position that requires a Blue Relay?
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Old 11-29-2005, 09:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That sounds right. Assuming your ignition switch is sending power to it in every key position where that relay is supposed to be operable. What's the problem you're having?
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Old 11-30-2005, 07:31 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolapcfan
What's the problem you're having?
http://www.sr20forum.com/sr20de-technical-corner/138183-car-wont-start-warning-lights-stay-when-key-removed.html
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Old 01-03-2006, 02:01 AM   #5 (permalink)
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How can I check the ABS relay on my car?
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Old 03-09-2008, 03:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolapcfan View Post
Since I spent the time to check this all out in the FSM to help another forum member with his problem, I thought I'd make better use of my time by sharing it with the community. So here's the simplest way to check out your ignition switch and relays:

With the ignition switch to ACC, try operating your power mirrors and your windshield wipers. Do the same with the key in the ON position. If those work in one key position but not the other, then your ignition switch is bad. If they donít work at all then itís probably the Accessory relay. But to be sure, check to see if the other relays are operating. With the ignition switch ON, try operating your turn signals and your rear window defroster. If they donít work then it could be your ignition switch or Ignition 1 relay. With the ignition switch to ON, see if your blower fan will operate. If not it could be your ignition switch or the Ignition 2 relay. Lastly, if you have a sunroof, turn the key to ON and try to operate it. If not, then that relay could be bad, which would in turn not allow Ignition relay 2 to operate.

To check the relayís you need to pull your driver's side lower dash panel out. Next to your fuse block are 3 relays, 4 if you have rear defrost. The very bottom relay is your Ignition 1 relay, and the one right above it is the Accessory relay and the one above that Ignition 2 relay. Ignition 3 relay/Sunroof relay, should be located under the passengerís side kick panel.

Start with Ignition 1 relay, then Accessory, Ignition 2 relay and lastly Ignition 3 relay/Sunroof relay.

How to check the relays and their circuits:

Pull the relay out and youíll see that there are two terminals on the relay that are close together and two that are further apart from each other. Except the brown relays, which have 6 terminals, 4 that are close together and two that are further apart. Using the two that are further apart, connect one of them to ground and one of them to 12 volts and listen to hear if the relay clicks. If not then the relay is bad. If it does click, then use a voltmeter set to ohmís or continuity, and touch one probe each to the two terminals that are close together. Now operate the relay again and see if you get continuity (zero ohms resistance) when the relay is on, and no continuity (infinite ohms) when the relay is off. If that checks out then the relay is good.

To check the circuit, remove the relay and use a meter to check at the terminals where the relay plugs in. How you check it depends on which relay youíre checking.

Ignition relay 1: The bottom right terminal should have voltage when the ignition switch is ON and Start positions, if not the ignition switch is bad. The upper right terminal should be grounded all the time. The bottom left terminal should have voltage all the time, if not, then you probably have a blown fusible link, the one right after the battery positive.

Accessory relay: The upper right terminal should have voltage when the ignition switch is in the ACC and ON positions, if not, the ignition switch is bad. The bottom right terminal should be grounded all the time. The bottom left terminal should have voltage all the time, if not, then you probably have a blown fusible link, the one right after the battery positive.


Ignition relay 2: The bottom right terminal should have voltage when the ignition switch is in the ACC and ON positions, if not, the ignition switch is bad. The upper right terminal should be grounded when the ignition switch is in the ON and Start positions, if not, then the Ignition 3 relay/Sunroof relay could be bad or has a bad ground. The top left terminal should have voltage all the time, if not, then you probably have a blown fusible link, the one right after the battery positive.

Ignition relay 3/sunroof relay: Two terminals should have continuity to ground at all times. One should have voltage present with the ignition in the On/Start positions.

I have a problem with my 2001 Quest every time I turn the engine on after a second it burns out the Ignition relays Fuse. So , I checked the ignition relays the way you showed above and they all clicked. the 3 brown ones and also the 2 blue ones so with 12volts they work. about the continuity I dont know because I dont have a voltmeter I tryed to use a 12v tester but the light of the tester don't come on. maybe because we're checking for ohms not volts. Have any ideas?
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Old 03-09-2008, 05:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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See if you can get a wiring diagram for the van. What I would do is find out what all is on that circuit and unplug one thing at a time until the fuse no longer blows. You've got something shorted out somewhere is my guess, so you have to find out what is causing that. You can get a cheap meter just about anywhere, so I'd pick one up. You don't have to spend more than $10 on one, they all work the same for the most part.
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Old 03-26-2008, 11:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toolapcfan View Post
How to check the relays and their circuits:

Using the two that are further apart, connect one of them to ground and one of them to 12 volts and listen to hear if the relay clicks. If not then the relay is bad.
Rob,
For testing relays on the bench, I use a plain square 9-volt battery with small allegator clips. It works great for testing relays..

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Old 03-26-2008, 12:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I thought I was having an ignition switch problem but after reading this I dont hink I am. Only other thing I can think of is the Clutch Inhibitor Switch which would be very easy to bypass. Good stuff Scotty.
Im still going to test everything again this way, but basically everything works and everythign gets power, but my car wont start (starter and batt have been tested)
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Old 08-21-2011, 11:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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