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Old 03-11-2007, 08:40 PM   #21 (permalink)
chimaira989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cjburn View Post
The upper radiator hose and housing (on the head) had to come off in order to get the alternator out of there. After core charge I got a reman'd alternator from Advance Auto parts with lifetime warranty for 75 bucks or so.
The price has about doubled in the past two years.. Mine just went out and they quoted me about 132 with core.

Freakin stupid nissan design. I think mine went out because the fill neck on the radiator is directly above the alternator. I removed the rad. to replace my condenser today and when refilling and letting the car run, it gurgled one good time and soaked the alt. in coolant. Drove it, and about 4-5 miles later the battery and brake light pop on. brilliant.
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Old 03-11-2007, 08:49 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Speaking of the price, who have you found to have the most inexpensive one? I can't find another for less than about 130? Can't even find any rebuild parts.
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Old 10-08-2007, 03:06 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I've updated the FAQ with pictures and a few new comments spread throughout.
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Old 10-09-2007, 04:58 PM   #24 (permalink)
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wow, let me tell ya, WITH A/C ... not too fun, infact, I don't really want to do this again. I tried for about a good 30 min before I gave up and just took the upper hose and neck off for the radiator fluid.... EVEN THEN it didn't want to come out right away...

SO my little metal chrager is at a rebuild shop till tomorrow, for a cold cool $100.00... then we put it back all together tomorrow
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Old 10-09-2007, 05:34 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Yep, a repair like this is seemingly so simple but it can be a real PITA.

Did the FAQ help at all? I posted the pics to help show it is possible and give a reference as to the orientation of the alternator that I've found works best.

I know after I did this a few times I became much more confident with the proceedure. Just knowing I've done it in the past allows me to keep trying when it doesn't look like it's going to work. Knowing which way I should rotate the alternator also helps...
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Old 11-28-2007, 09:38 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I just replaced my alternator with a 100 amp from a 2001 sentra and it took under an hour to remoe and replace. This is without jacking up the car or removing the coolant hose. I got mine from Advanced for $163 with core, Checkers wanted $221 and they both use the same parts supplier Parts America who incidentally wanted $199.
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Old 11-29-2007, 03:12 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Advance FTW.... for customer service and parts quality... at least around here
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Old 11-29-2007, 04:51 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yosho View Post
Yep, a repair like this is seemingly so simple but it can be a real PITA.

Did the FAQ help at all? I posted the pics to help show it is possible and give a reference as to the orientation of the alternator that I've found works best.

I know after I did this a few times I became much more confident with the proceedure. Just knowing I've done it in the past allows me to keep trying when it doesn't look like it's going to work. Knowing which way I should rotate the alternator also helps...
thanks for the write up. I have a feeling I will be changing mine soon. I have a bad belt squeal so I will try to adjust the belt as you mentioned.
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Old 03-22-2008, 05:43 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin_g34 View Post
^^^^

A better way is to raise the motor a little so you don't have to disconnect the hose and make a mess. I just put a long 2x4 under the oil pan and use a jack to support the engine while I remove the passenger side motot-mount bolt. Then just keep raising the motor until you have enough room to remove the alternator.

I found that it also helps to remove the bracket that holds the radiator reservoir, it's just one 10mm bolt.

Out of all the alternators I've changed out (4), I have never been able to take it our without removing something or raising the motor.
Worked form me.
I couldn't remove my alternator until I followed martin_g34's advice.
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Old 03-27-2008, 04:12 AM   #30 (permalink)
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My brake light came on 3 weeks ago. When I press down hard on the E-Brake handle, the light goes off until I remove the pressure, then back on.

My battery light never came on, but I am thinking it may be busted, after I read some of the above comments.

I have had a nightmare the last week. Started with a nasty smell in the car, which turned out to be leaking battery acid. Changed the battery, but the guys at the store tested my old battery and said it was putting out the electricity it should be.

Next my strereo/mp3 player's power cuts in and out. Now it rarely comes on at all.

Next my high beams burnt out, so I changed my lamps. Burnt out again, so I changed them being ever so carefull not to touch them. Burnt out again, including the regular lights.

I think on the weekend I'm going to change out the alternator, but would apreciate any advice you guys have to give on my problems. I don't know if it is possible, but could the alternator being over charging the battery, thus boiling the acid? Oh and the new battery is leaking acid now too.
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Last edited by wilde cherry : 03-27-2008 at 04:14 AM.
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Old 03-27-2008, 07:12 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Wilde Cherry, sounds as if you have a coin or something stuck under the e brake handle.
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Quote:
Last edited by Shawn B : 01-16-2008 at 03:50 PM. Reason: So I could flame him harder
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonny
Sudden draws of power at the hands of a sub(s) playing some Too Short will eat away at any alternator
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Old 03-28-2008, 11:36 AM   #32 (permalink)
wilde cherry
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For future people that have the same problems as me.

The E-brake light seemed to be some random crap stuck under the handle which i cleaned out. Now it turns off when I release the E-brake.

Changed the alternator on my nx2000. The guy at the auto electric repair place that I bought it off of said from my symptoms that it was most likely a regulator that is part of the alternator that had stopped functioning.

He said that the stereo would have a safety feature that would cut the power from the unit if it was too strong.

The replacement was pretty easy for me. I'm a handy guy but not an auto mechanic by any means. One thing that I would comment about the change is, when someone mentioned moving the rad overflow thing, it is not necessary to unhook the hose at all. Just gently pull the reservoir straight up and rest it aside (I put mine between / ontop of the rad and the front body piece). Be aware of where the overflow tap is as you move it, make sure you keep the fluid tipped away from that spot or it will spill.

Once complete, my stereo came on right away, and after I put in new headlight bulbs (yet again), they worked and didn't burn out like before.

Last edited by wilde cherry : 03-28-2008 at 12:04 PM.
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