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i did this last night after reading this thread several times over the last two years...lol...and boy what a difference it made!...i didnt get to check just how bad it was but it must have been bad...cause this morning when i drove it, it was so much smoother, pulled better and didnt hesitate...and didnt use as much gas as i normally do( i drive 30 miles one way to work) quite impressed took me less than ten minutes to splice, solder , reground and tape off ......this is yet another reason i keep comin back to this forum!
great job guys!
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1991 xe....dead(boneyard)
1994 e.....dead(parted out)
1993 nx2k....dead(road kill hit by a f150)(parted out)
91 sentra E jdm sr20de swapped, HIEPDTO^UFSW...dead(chopped up, molested and parted out)
2007 hyundai accent DD for now
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Well all thanx goes to Jim Wright over at SE-R.net for the idea and help. I just made it simple. Pictures speak a lot easier than just a bunch of words.
My NX felt a little bit weak throughout the rev range, mind you I could get a good tire chirp on the 1-2 gear change, but was not up to my expectations, so I just checked my MAF ground and got 30mV !!!!!! that is more than 3 times the maximum recommended limit (9mV), I'm re-grounding it tonight and will post results.
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NX2000 - VE transplant in progress...
My NX felt a little bit weak throughout the rev range, mind you I could get a good tire chirp on the 1-2 gear change, but was not up to my expectations, so I just checked my MAF ground and got 30mV !!!!!! that is more than 3 times the maximum recommended limit (9mV), I'm re-grounding it tonight and will post results.
UPDATE: Added a new ground wire (18g) from the maf ground to the intake manifold ground without cutting the existing maf ground (in case of the new wire breaking). The resistance went from 30mV to 3mV
I went for a drive and what a difference - car pulls much harder and drives easier, similar feeling of removing additional 100lbs from your car.
There is no need of cutting the MAF ground and replacing the ground, simply splice the existing wire and add an additional ground wire, the current will take a path of the least resistance anyways and in case of getting a new ground wire damaged, you will not get stranded.
There is no need of cutting the MAF ground and replacing the ground, simply splice the existing wire and add an additional ground wire, the current will take a path of the least resistance anyways and in case of getting a new ground wire damaged, you will not get stranded.
If you would have read the actually thread you would understand the reason for the other wire in the ground. But ok....
Not matter weather you add in a new wire, splice in a new wire. Or completely remove the OEM ground and replace it. Cutting is cutting man no matter how you do it. So stating that there is no need of cutting is completely untrue.
If you would have read the actually thread you would understand the reason for the other wire in the ground. But ok....
Not matter weather you add in a new wire, splice in a new wire. Or completely remove the OEM ground and replace it. Cutting is cutting man no matter how you do it. So stating that there is no need of cutting is completely untrue.
Actually I did not cut any existing wires, I tapped into the MAF ground (removed the wire insulation) and soldered another wire that was connected to the intake manifold ground. That was even recommended by se-r.net.
First time I tried it some crap happened..... lets just say I almost killed couple fuses, battery, and some other electronic equipment. Because only the alarm light was still blinking and nothing else was coming on
So what happened?
1. I did not slice the middle wire, I stripped it and connected the ground to it.
2. I don't think I found a secure enough ground point. I put the ground wire onto a screw then screwed the screw on where the stock intake box was... BAD IDEA... it looks like it was rusted, so probably no contact.
I say only connect the new ground to this location!
Ok so, with that aside, it think it is a must to cut the middle wire, otherwise there are some conflicts going on...
After that I soldered the the new ground wire to the ground on the maf sensor. Car started and worked fine . I took a drive, didn't see any improvements, but the gas mileage will tell!
Okay so I tried this and ran into several problems.
To start with; I am a QG18DE B15 - so I have four wires connecting to my MAF.
I couldn't get an accurate reading from my voltmeter on any of the wires. It might just be that I don't know how to use it properly. What leads do I connect to what? And what setting should I turn to?
And finally, I disconnected the MAF then started the engine, to see if that would help get an accurate reading. Of course, this threw up a Check Engine light. After plugging the MAF back in and driving a bit, the light's still up.
What's a man to do? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Okay so I figured this out last night. I unplugged the sensor then turned the key in the ignition to ACC.
Then I put a paper clip inside the socket in the sensor so it touches the terminal inside, then I put my voltmeter on that. For my QG, with four wires, it's the white wire. I had a reading of .08, so I don't think a regrounding will yield outstanding results. Neverless, I'll still get around to it soon.
. I took a drive, didn't see any improvements, but the gas mileage will tell! 
