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Old 08-19-2006, 04:56 PM   #21 (permalink)
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how much power wire would i need for a b14? 25ft?
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Old 08-19-2006, 04:59 PM   #22 (permalink)
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do i need to also get the 3way distribution block too? on the b14. what happens to the 2 fuse box that hooks up on the battery tray? seems like you only have one fuse box. i was thinking about getting the kollosus 1/0 power cable. also do i need a circuit breaker? sorry if im sounding so dumb. thats because i want to be on the safe side.

Last edited by disboijoe; 08-19-2006 at 05:01 PM.
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Old 02-07-2007, 08:01 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Last edited by Dan9; 02-13-2007 at 06:47 AM. Reason: nevermind work computer is weird...can see pics just fine at home
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Old 03-17-2007, 04:29 PM   #24 (permalink)
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FYI knukonceptz has wire in stock again...they have replaced the EKO cable with the KLM cable, its 10cents cheaper per foot.

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Old 03-18-2007, 05:43 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Hmmm I want to do this to my S13!

Dont really know if its a job i want to do by myself though. Might have to get my auto electrician to have a look at it for me
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Old 03-18-2007, 02:49 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Try WeldingSupply.com for an alternative for 1/0 wire. It's probably the cheapest per ft that is actually 1/0 and not 1/2 sleeve 1/2 wire.
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Old 03-24-2007, 09:54 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninety-Nine SE-L View Post
I like the circuit breaker and front block.
After living with it, I don't like the distribution block I used and don't recommend it. The fit and sturdiness are less than they should be, and the 3 fuses just complicates things. I did a relocation for prettywhite-ser's car and used circuit breakers front and back, which is how I'll continue to do them in the future. With the breaker up front, I just removed the ring from the the original positive terminal, and was able to keep the stock red connector & fusible link.

Out back I used the stock battery tray, power and ground cables from his Summit battery kit, and threw the rest of it away. The Summit kit relies on a plastic box, 4 tiny self tapping screws, some plastic hardware, and nylon straps to mount the battery which is ludicrous. In an accident, the battery will become a missile. I feel very strongly that it's mandatory to firmly mount the battery.

Here's a few pics. Gallery with hi-res shots HERE.



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Old 04-21-2007, 11:57 PM   #28 (permalink)
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what is the gold plated connecter called that connects the factory wiring to the 1/0 cable?

Can I buy these at the local Radio Shack?
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Old 04-23-2007, 11:12 AM   #29 (permalink)
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got the 1/0 from front to back. I think its a massive understatement to even say its a b#$%h to fit it in the stock wire trough - it is nearly impossible! But doable all teh same. The only part that didnt fit was conveniently right under the pillar trim where the drivers' seatbelt is - and the trim hid the bulge.

Now to finish up....
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Old 04-23-2007, 12:08 PM   #30 (permalink)
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BEAUTIFUL! If I ever decide to do this to my B14, I'll be using this tutorial for sure!
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Old 04-23-2007, 12:37 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeKKiE View Post
BEAUTIFUL! If I ever decide to do this to my B14, I'll be using this tutorial for sure!
I'm going to do this on a B14 probably this week, and will document it with pics. I'm using KnuKonceptz wire, the stock battery tray, and 2 circuit breakers.

C
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Old 04-23-2007, 12:58 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I'm going to do this on a B14 probably this week, and will document it with pics. I'm using KnuKonceptz wire, the stock battery tray, and 2 circuit breakers.

C
Great! Keep us posted!
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Old 05-03-2007, 10:23 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Nice write up.

Just to let everyone know, you should grind the paint off of the spot you mount your grounds. As far as what size of ground to use, the same size as the positive cable is ideal and as short as posible. Straight to the chasis is best, try not to go to panels that are welded in. Might as well upgrade all of your grounds as well. also use a nut and bolt with star washer on top of the ring terminal and on on the under side of the car. Put a little dab of spray paint over the ground and underneath to prevent rust.

99-SE-L: i would move your grounds to the chasis. the problem with where you have them is that the peice of metal is welded to the chasis. It may seem like a good ground but it is not the best. You want to get right to the chasis with no weld points or seams if at all posible.
Chriscar: i would suggest moving your ground to the other side of the seatbelt bracket. Take some paint off with 80 grit sandpaper or a stone bit on a dremel.
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Old 05-08-2007, 02:34 PM   #34 (permalink)
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amps?

given the 150A circuit breakers you have, is it safe to say that if I get cable with 250 amp capability, that it would be OK? Knuconceptz have 1/0 wire with 250A capability, the only difference btw that and the Kolossus wire is 50Amps. Should I be worried about a bigass battery in the middle of the winter that puts out 800 cold cranking amps?
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Old 05-08-2007, 03:03 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Larger wire, and/or a larger battery will not cause the engine to draw more amperage. You could put a 2000 amp battery in the trunk, and the engine will still draw the same amount of current.

C
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Old 05-08-2007, 03:27 PM   #36 (permalink)
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so then I'm safe with the 250A rather than the 300A?
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Old 05-08-2007, 03:29 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Dude, you're more than safe. Take a look around and you'll see guys using 4 gauge for their trunk mounted batteries.

C
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Old 06-17-2007, 03:06 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Chris,

Did you ever do that B14 kit yet? Im interested to see your ground distribution because I think Im having some grounding issues caused my relocation kit Post up when you get a chance.

Thanks

Jeremy
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Old 06-17-2007, 04:35 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I'm just going to run the stock ground wire from the block to the chassis, and another one in the back from the battery to the chassis. That's all you need.

What did you do, what gauge wire did you use, and what's your issue?

C
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:06 PM   #40 (permalink)
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yet another mod i have to add to my ever growing list of future mods to do to the E.....lol
great write up
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