A community of enthusiasts dedicated to Nissan's SR20DE/SR20VE/SR20DET engines.
Start here: forum search. Be sure to search on what you're looking for before posting a new thread.
You are currently browsing the forum as a guest. In order to access special features, the image gallery, and post you will need to be a registered member. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the administrator.
do i need to also get the 3way distribution block too? on the b14. what happens to the 2 fuse box that hooks up on the battery tray? seems like you only have one fuse box. i was thinking about getting the kollosus 1/0 power cable. also do i need a circuit breaker? sorry if im sounding so dumb. thats because i want to be on the safe side.
Last edited by disboijoe : 08-19-2006 at 04:01 PM.
I did mine much the same. I also used 1/0 cable which is very beefy stuff.
here's some pix of mine (starting at the back):
frame I found online for optima batts:
Lots of grounding:
Rear gromet:
running that thick stuff:
little playing around w/ the grounds:
Final result:
Moving up front. gromet behind the kick panel into the fender area:
zip ties for the fuse boxes (I also used washers)
quick block and heatshrink:
final:
After living with it, I don't like the distribution block I used and don't recommend it. The fit and sturdiness are less than they should be, and the 3 fuses just complicates things. I did a relocation for prettywhite-ser's car and used circuit breakers front and back, which is how I'll continue to do them in the future. With the breaker up front, I just removed the ring from the the original positive terminal, and was able to keep the stock red connector & fusible link.
Out back I used the stock battery tray, power and ground cables from his Summit battery kit, and threw the rest of it away. The Summit kit relies on a plastic box, 4 tiny self tapping screws, some plastic hardware, and nylon straps to mount the battery which is ludicrous. In an accident, the battery will become a missile. I feel very strongly that it's mandatory to firmly mount the battery.
Here's a few pics. Gallery with hi-res shots HERE.
__________________
cogito ergo zoom................
got the 1/0 from front to back. I think its a massive understatement to even say its a b#$%h to fit it in the stock wire trough - it is nearly impossible! But doable all teh same. The only part that didnt fit was conveniently right under the pillar trim where the drivers' seatbelt is - and the trim hid the bulge.
BEAUTIFUL! If I ever decide to do this to my B14, I'll be using this tutorial for sure!
I'm going to do this on a B14 probably this week, and will document it with pics. I'm using KnuKonceptz wire, the stock battery tray, and 2 circuit breakers.
I'm going to do this on a B14 probably this week, and will document it with pics. I'm using KnuKonceptz wire, the stock battery tray, and 2 circuit breakers.
Just to let everyone know, you should grind the paint off of the spot you mount your grounds. As far as what size of ground to use, the same size as the positive cable is ideal and as short as posible. Straight to the chasis is best, try not to go to panels that are welded in. Might as well upgrade all of your grounds as well. also use a nut and bolt with star washer on top of the ring terminal and on on the under side of the car. Put a little dab of spray paint over the ground and underneath to prevent rust.
99-SE-L: i would move your grounds to the chasis. the problem with where you have them is that the peice of metal is welded to the chasis. It may seem like a good ground but it is not the best. You want to get right to the chasis with no weld points or seams if at all posible.
Chriscar: i would suggest moving your ground to the other side of the seatbelt bracket. Take some paint off with 80 grit sandpaper or a stone bit on a dremel.
__________________
It seems that some people have been spoon feed their whole lives, It is societies job to teach them how to use the spoon for themselves.
given the 150A circuit breakers you have, is it safe to say that if I get cable with 250 amp capability, that it would be OK? Knuconceptz have 1/0 wire with 250A capability, the only difference btw that and the Kolossus wire is 50Amps. Should I be worried about a bigass battery in the middle of the winter that puts out 800 cold cranking amps?
Larger wire, and/or a larger battery will not cause the engine to draw more amperage. You could put a 2000 amp battery in the trunk, and the engine will still draw the same amount of current.
Did you ever do that B14 kit yet? Im interested to see your ground distribution because I think Im having some grounding issues caused my relocation kit Post up when you get a chance.
Thanks
Jeremy
__________________
_LOVIN VT_
Technician at Burlington NISSAN
&
Full Time College Student
Post up when you get a chance.