Battery relocation writeup - Page 4

Breaktackle25 · 03-09-2009, 01:54 PM

Hey chris I don't mean to revive an old stickied thread like this but you said you removed the battery terminal loop under the hood that is near the distribution block. how did you interface the distribution block with the 1/0 wire?

chriscar · 03-09-2009, 02:01 PM

Per the parts list in the first post -

Quote:

KNF-23 KonFUSED 3 Way Distribution System (150A,30A,30A

I wouldn't recommend using that distribution block though, I wasn't happy with the way the cables attached, and the cover didn't seat very well. On subsequent battery re locations, I've retained the original fusible links, and hooked the 3 wires which originally went to the positive terminal (on the red plastic connector) to a circuit breaker in the engine bay. This is in addition to the rear breaker.

I'll try and dig up pictures.

C

Breaktackle25 · 03-09-2009, 02:06 PM

That would be awesome thank you so much! Yeah I saw you used that block then said after using it for a while you wouldn't recommend it. I'm in the process of doing this job now and just wanted to retain as many parts as possible, which it sounds like you did on subsequent relocations.

SR20? · 03-19-2009, 05:18 PM

Is there any way you could redo the pics to make them go with what you've typed? I think you might have some pics missing or something cause I can't find them on that link.

TOOQIKK · 03-22-2009, 11:19 AM

requestin pictures to be reposted.....

chriscar · 03-22-2009, 11:55 AM

I'm away for the weekend, will try and work on it this week for you guys.

C

TOOQIKK · 03-22-2009, 05:10 PM

thank you very much sir...we will be waitin.....

NYs92se-r · 04-13-2009, 09:08 PM

im about to do this to my b13...this is kind of a stupid question but why do you need to install circuit breakers?

is so just incase it shorts out it will break the circuit before damaging anything else??

oo and i would be very greatful if anyone could post pics..thank you

paNX2K&SE-R · 04-13-2009, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NYs92se-r

im about to do this to my b13...this is kind of a stupid question but why do you need to install circuit breakers?

is so just incase it shorts out it will break the circuit before damaging anything else??

Most people would rather just spend the $30 on a breaker or fuse than see their car burn to the ground if there ever is a major short to occur somewhere in your reroute wiring.

NYs92se-r · 04-14-2009, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paNX2K&SE-R

Most people would rather just spend the $30 on a breaker or fuse than see their car burn to the ground if there ever is a major short to occur somewhere in your reroute wiring.

ok..

unijabnx2000 · 04-14-2009, 07:31 PM

pics dont work?

2dr_sentra · 04-14-2009, 07:55 PM

edit...........

Ianh · 04-27-2009, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chriscar

Per the parts list in the first post -

I wouldn't recommend using that distribution block though, I wasn't happy with the way the cables attached, and the cover didn't seat very well. On subsequent battery re locations, I've retained the original fusible links, and hooked the 3 wires which originally went to the positive terminal (on the red plastic connector) to a circuit breaker in the engine bay. This is in addition to the rear breaker.

I'll try and dig up pictures.

C

The KLM 1/0 wire on the KnuKonceptz site is Copper Clad Al (CCA)
this is given as 10% Cu and 90% Aluminum.
The area is 66.8 mm2
When you work out the Cu equivalent cross section at 20 deg C I get 44.75 mm2
This is about 1 AWG Cu wire (42.4 mm2)
So if you are comparing cost compare the 1/0 CCA with 1 AWG Cu wire.
It seems to me that 2 AWG Cu would be more than adequate, since its about 0.8 V drop at 200 Amps. ( and about $1.26 per foot from welding supply site)

Breaktackle25 · 05-18-2009, 08:21 AM

Hey, I was just curious what circuit breaker I should use instead of the knukonceptz one. I would like to start this project before this weekend because it's the one thing holding it up.

chriscar · 05-18-2009, 09:06 AM

KnuKonceptz didn't supply the breaker, it was their distribution block that I didn't like.

Use the link below for the breaker. Put one in the engine compartment, and one back by the battery.

http://stores.ebay.com/Xstatic-BatCap-Central

C

Breaktackle25 · 05-18-2009, 10:58 AM

Thank you so much, chriscar! Ordering now :-)

Breaktackle25 · 07-13-2009, 09:46 AM

Alright, last post. Can someone post 2 pictures of their underhood setup please? One of the circuit breaker with the connections to it, and one of the grounding setup as well. I am more of a visual person, and I've read this thread numerous times but it would be nice to actually see it.

chriscar · 07-13-2009, 10:03 AM

Ground - for the engine bay, you can keep the stock ground wire, which goes from the block to the chassis to the battery. To clean things up, cut off the part from the chassis to battery. Optionally, make a new ground wire and replace the stock one.

There's pictures of the ground in the rear of the car on my Picasa web gallery.
http://picasaweb.google.com/cscarpul...ry_Relocation#

I don't have any pics of the circuit breaker in the engine compartment, but basically you just want to mount it on the strut tower, and use the stock battery terminal, cut the ring portion off it, remove the bolt/nut and bolt it directly on to the circuit breaker.

C

Taurus45acp · 08-14-2009, 04:36 AM

just did this to my b14, didnt like the distribution block, it works but has a flimsy feel to it...also the connections are a little strange, the way they are just screwed into to closed terminal. Used a seperated 2 gauge jumper cable instead of the 1/0 gauge cable, was cheaper. Cars starting every time and has put up with some pretty bumpy roads on stiff suspension....will follow up with pics.

chriscar · 08-14-2009, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Taurus45acp

just did this to my b14, didnt like the distribution block, it works but has a flimsy feel to it.

Yep, that's why I suggested using a circuit breaker instead.

C