Battery relocation writeup

chriscar · 01-23-2006, 08:34 PM

Here's another little writeup for you all.

Seeing as there's no way to fit a full size battery in the engine compartment of my NX since I'm running a side mount IC, I needed a foolproof, daily driver reliable, remote mount setup. I used 1/0 cable so I wouldn't have to worry about starting my car in the middle of a New York winter. I used a circuit breaker out back to give me the convenience of killing power to the car when working on it, and I kept the stock battery tray because I'm thrifty

. Well that, and it's better than some flimsy plastic box.

I bought all my supplies at www.knukonceptz.com. I highly recommend them, as they have great products and awesome prices. Everything I was able to find in various car forums confirms this, their reputation is flawless.

The flat black paint is temporary, I ran out of gloss.

Starting at the front, I used a fused 3way distribution block.

The 1/0 cable is run along with the stock wire bundle through the fender.

Through the firewall grommet.

Inside the wire trough.

Under the rear seat, behind the side panel cover, and to a 150amp circuit breaker.

I modified the stock battery tray a bit, by cutting off the brackets that hold the relay box, and bolted it down through the floor.

The spade connectors I bought were huge, and they all needed some sort of massaging with the bench grinder. I used the stock negative terminal, modifying it a bit with an angle grinder and bench grinder.

And there you have it!

The battery connector has a 1/0 port, as well as an 4 gauge port, and provisions for a ring terminal.

That 4 gauge port will come in handy when I wire up the amp and Basslink.

Here's a comparison of the 1/0 to a 4 gauge wire. This stuff is BEAFY.

I had ordered Knuconceptz eko cable 1/0, but they ran out of it and substituted a more expensive cable, their Kollosus which is even larger than standard 1/0. Normally this would be a good thing, but fitting it in the wire trough along the driver side rail was an absolute bitch!

By the way, I bought 20 feet of wire for the positive side, and had maybe 6 to 12 inches to spare. I'd suggest ordering 22 to 25 feet to be safe. For you weight conscious folks, the total weight of the parts used was between 8 and 9 pounds, which isn't too bad. I'm not concerned with weight in this car, as it's a daily driver.

Here's part numbers and pricing for everything.

Code:

BT-104P Positive Battery Terminal                        1 $12.00 $12.00 
KNF-23 KonFUSED 3 Way Distribution System (150A,30A,30A) 1 $19.99 $19.99 
RT1/0516BK Gold Plated 1/0 Ring Terminal - Black         2 $1.75  $3.50 
RT1/0516R Gold Plated 1/0 Ring Terminal -Red             2 $1.75  $3.50 
eKo-0BL eKo Kable 1/0 Metallic Blue Power/Ground Cable  20 $1.85  $37.00 
eKo-0PRL eKo Kable 1/0 Silver Pearl Power/Ground Cable   4 $1.85  $7.40 

Sub Total:  $83.39 
Tax:        $0.00 
Shipping:   $9.99 
Discount:   $0.00 
Total:      $93.38

I bought the circuit breaker on eBay from Xstatic BatCap Central (user id ricktw) for $14.99 + $3.75 shipping which is a killer price.
http://stores.ebay.com/Xstatic-BatCap-Central

Here's the gallery with all the pics on the project.
http://sr20.net/gallery/Battery_Relocation

[edit 10/23/06]I wouldn't recommend cutting off the original fusible links. I was never able to find out what their true ratings were, and it just complicated the install

C

coryb13ser · 01-23-2006, 08:40 PM

wow nice write up, i really liek that you put the price and parts on there.

but is there a cut off switch from the outside? a lot of tracks require that.

chriscar · 01-23-2006, 08:50 PM

No there's not. I'm not going to run around with an external switch on a street car. Maybe I'll buy an extra taillight and rig something up if I go to the track.

C

johnand · 01-23-2006, 09:07 PM

Chris, did you remove the fusible link and just put a fuse in it's place? I was going to do that but our electrical guru at work told me not too. I have forgotten why, though. Nice job, looks clean.

chriscar · 01-23-2006, 09:13 PM

Yes, I removed the fusible link. You caught me on the one thing that I was wondering about. I don't know what amperage the fusible link is, do you? I used a 30amp fuse.

What's the fusible link for anyway? I've owned B13's since 92, and never had to replace one.

I'd like to hear the reason your electrical guru wouldn't replace it.

C

johnand · 01-23-2006, 09:18 PM

Chris, I'll ask him tomorrow and I think you can figure out the amperage based on the wire gauge and length. I'll let you know what he says.

chriscar · 01-23-2006, 09:19 PM

I'll take a look at the fsm and see what I can see.

C

paNX2K&SE-R · 01-23-2006, 09:54 PM

I blew a fusable link in the NX a few years ago. I wasn't paying close enough attention and tried to jump it with the cables reversed oops! I had a hell of a time trying to find a new one. None of the local dealers could find a part number for some reason. I ended up getting one from a junkyard.

Rittmeister · 01-23-2006, 10:10 PM

Very cool install. I need to do something similar with my S13 before long.

Where would you hook up cables to jump the car if necessary?

chriscar · 01-23-2006, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rittmeister

Very cool install. I need to do something similar with my S13 before long.

Where would you hook up cables to jump the car if necessary?

I'd hook them right to the battery.

C

johnand · 01-23-2006, 11:32 PM

What is that just to the right of the circuit breaker in the trunk?

McCoy · 01-23-2006, 11:35 PM

The NX's rear cargo light, John.

chriscar · 01-24-2006, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnand

What is that just to the right of the circuit breaker in the trunk?

It's an NX thing..... you wouldn't understand.

C

johnand · 01-24-2006, 08:58 AM

LOL. Figured it was an NX thing.

Gone · 08-17-2006, 10:01 PM

Just to let you know. That blue wire from that website is not 1/0 gauge. They label as such but it's 2/0 because the amperage that it can handle is definitely not 1/0.

chriscar · 08-17-2006, 10:06 PM

What are you basing your information on?

C

Canx2k · 08-17-2006, 10:40 PM

Electrical stuff is definatly not my forte, so please dont flame me for asking but,

Once you got all the positive cable figured out and wired to the trunk, where did you ground your negative to on the frame in the trunk?

ps, Gone is right, it says right on the website:

eKo Kable 1/0 Metallic Blue Power/Ground Cable
( Knukonceptz Item #eKo-0BL )

Description: Introducing a Knu line of price minded power cable. Many times the bottom line is top priority. Well we have answered the call again. Our eKo (aka echo) cable is made from the same grade materials as the Kolossus line. Yet is more the industry standard in strand count at 3920 36AWG Oxygen Free Copper strands (the Kolossus Line 1/0 is actually 2/0 Gauge according to American Wire Gauge Standards) Keeping with our philosophy, we are providing a big name quality cable at yet again lower pricing.

chriscar · 08-17-2006, 10:43 PM

Right to the frame.

I also have a ground cable in the stock location from the fame to the engine in the engine compartmet.

C

darthgearhead · 08-18-2006, 11:20 AM

Hi

I just checked the Knukonceptz web site, and they are listing the EKO 1/0 cable at $2.25/ft, not $1.85/ft. Did you get a special deal on this?

Thanks
Sean