A community of enthusiasts dedicated to Nissan's SR20DE/SR20VE/SR20DET engines.
Start here: forum search. Be sure to search on what you're looking for before posting a new thread.
You are currently browsing the forum as a guest. In order to access special features, the image gallery, and post you will need to be a registered member. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the administrator.
I just got done with my mostly successful Maxima rear brake install. OK, the maxima part went great, it was the altima part that wasn't a hit. The Maxima rear brakes and JDM NX rotors bolted up without any hitch (Thanks Andreas!), we didn't even need to fiddle with the e-brake bracket. Here are a couple of pics:
Now the problem. The Altima ABS M/C I got from Nopi has holes for the PV's that are WAY too small for my stock M/C PV's, despite the fact that they are from the same manufacturer. Anybody else have this problem, or am I the only ABS fool trying this? Any solutions? Should I run Altima PV's? Also, one of the holes for the PV is directly on the side of the M/C, which makes us doubt that there will be enough room between the M/C and the strut tower for the PV & brake line to fit. Are all Altima M/C's like this? Here are a couple of pic's:
So I'm running the stock M/C for now. I have to press quite a ways for full engagement on the brakes, but it's not too bad. Not sure if it's going down so far as to screw up heel/toeing. I cannot wait to try them on the track. Any answers to the Altima M/C Q's would be greatly appreciated.
__________________
Vitamin B13: Cures all that ails you. Dosage is 7500 rpm, repeat as necessary.
WE are a community
hmm the placement of the stock PVs compared to the Alitima one threw me off.
i would call GregV (or your local dealership if you know they are not just monkeys and could help you) and check to see what the parts situation is. i remember someone's thread that used an Altima tokico MC (non-ABS i think) and had to swap SE-R PVs. that might only work for non-ABS cars
I think you got the wrong year MC or even the wrong car application MC. You need to recheck the place you got it from. Better if you try Napa, AutoZone, or the Dealership, where you can see the "REAL" pic, not some generic pic Nopi uses for everything. It also doesn't look like the same brand (Tociko/Nabco) from the pics. And if it is different brand from the one on your car, you got to get the matching brand PV as there threads are different between the two.
See the first page of my write up just under the pics it will list MC sizes and PVs. Also note that my MC even though it is different brands, the ports are all in the same spot. Thats why you a need a real pic of the MC you are trying to get.
__________________ 1982 Toyota Starlet with Starion turbo swap STOLEN!! 1986 300ZX Turbo with 87k miles 1991 Nissan Tsuru GSR2000 with UK SR20DE IT'S BACK!!!! 1992 Eclipse GS-X 325 hp SOLD 1993 NX2000 SOLD!
Yeah, I'm going to have to do some research on this stuff. Both M/C's are the same brands, but obviously I need to do some more background checking. I'll update when I have news.
Anybody think that if one were on a ghetto budget they could swap in the maxima 5 lug hubs and use the maxima rotors, thus you wouldnt need to get a couple of jdm rotors of have other redrilled?? I know the rear hubs will swap from 5x114.3 maxima to 4x4.5 altima.
Search around on the forum and you'll find links to places (rock auto or something like that) where you can get the standard rotors cheap. This rotor size is available at a lot of places (including napa, if I recall correctly), you just have to know what to ask for. Nevermind, I just found the post you should check out: http://www.sr20forum.com/technical-information-library/142750-maxima-altima-brakes-b13s.html
Edit: Hum.. as I posted my reply his post disappeared. Weird. At least I have it quoted to prove I'm not going insane.
Some of this is making my head reel. I went to a junkyard today, grabbed an M/C from a 95 Max, along with both calipers/pads. However, rotors were five lug. Do I need to just return all of it and look for a 91-94 max with 4 line m/c and calipers/rotors? As for the front Fastbrakes conversion, I've searched around for parts using NX2000 as search vehicle, and haven't found anything even close to that size. Where would I find 11.75" rotors, and the calipers to fit them? I would like to get my conversion done soon. I have my SS lines and rear (95 max) calipers, and my brakes need to be bled anyway, so I might as well do the front and rear conversion all at once. Please help me out if you can, perhaps with a specific parts list that I could use?
__________________
1991 B13 SE-R JDM SR20
The little red bastard - handling and traction 1st, speed 2nd.
The good drivers are the ones that understand they may not be the best out there, but know what to do to get there.
Nice setup. Any pics of it on the car with the wheels on?????
__________________ Once you go turbo you'll never go back!!!
1993 Ruby Red SE-R SR20DE+T RIP junked 3/06
1995 Infiniti G20
1994 Aztec Red SE-R W10DET powered
Quote:
Originally Posted by capecodbuysell
whats a 2 step and how does it build boost at the line
Quote:
Originally Posted by GateCrasher_VI
anyone have a spare muffler bearing or two? 'reason to suspect thats where my coffee can sound is coming from
Chronic...you need to get just the rear calipers from the Maxima and ebrake bracket on the caliper too. The rear rotors will not work without having to redrill them. It is easier and better to get brand new rotors from Greg at Mossy Performance, and the fit correctly. As for the Wilwood's any brake kit they have for the B13/14 fronts will work.
Chronic - for the larger rear rotors, try local parts houses. What you want is the 258mm rear solid rotor. Search the forum for 258mm and you'll get a ton of hits.
i can get them from a local wholesaler....mine were 13 bucks a piece!! for the rotors!!!hehe
got one question will the stock nx2k m/c work with this conversion? i have a 91 E and already have the nx front brakes and have the rear brakes setting in the garge gonna put on soon and s/s brakelines...what will my pedal feel like after the swap?with the stock nx2k m/c on it?
__________________
1991 xe....dead(boneyard)
1994 e.....dead(parted out)
1993 nx2k....dead(road kill hit by a f150)(parted out)
91 sentra E jdm sr20de swapped, HIEPDTO^UFSW...dead(chopped up, molested and parted out)
2007 hyundai accent DD for now
1987 pulsar se AWD-T
www.lubedealer.com/dkinney
for all your amsoil synthetic oils and filters
also sell ngk , mother, wix, and other products!
^^^Yes, as long as the brake lines match to the locale of the m/c outputs. Look at the first page of this thread just under the pics. You will see that the base model B13's have smaller m/c and use drums. Plus the brake pressures would be too high for the rear if you kept the stock E m/c. The pedal should feel as normal as a NX for your E B13 if you have discs all around using the NX m/c.
yeah i have the nx brakes up front and the drums in the back and the E m/c and the brakes suck!....lol....
thats what i was hopin a near stock feel....might look into the altima m/c later on.....see how this works first especailly since i got everything so darn cheap!...lol
)
