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Old 06-18-2007, 06:34 PM   #81 (permalink)
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So anyone that has done this wanna sell me there stock b13 se-r rear brake setup (calipers, rotors, pads)? I have drum brakes.
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Old 06-18-2007, 09:29 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedDragun View Post
So anyone that has done this wanna sell me there stock b13 se-r rear brake setup (calipers, rotors, pads)? I have drum brakes.
Well, if people got their caliper refurbished from familiar places then the core charges aren't somthing you want to pay + shipping. I have $160 core charges associated with my calipers alone. Maybe you'll get lucky though.
Edit: I think a part out is your beat bet.

Last edited by rex; 06-18-2007 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 06-18-2007, 10:23 PM   #83 (permalink)
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you will also need to replace the shackles when goin from drum to disc..and might want to plan on replacing some suspension parts and bolts...ask me how i know....
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Old 06-19-2007, 09:02 AM   #84 (permalink)
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I know a couple KY guys that need this Maxima upgrade!

Brent
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Old 07-14-2008, 07:50 PM   #85 (permalink)
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I have a 92 B13 and I have recently installed the 11" Wilwood kit up front and the Maxima calipers with the 10' rotors from fastbrakes.com in the rear. Everything seemed to go well except the ebrake. I got some ebrake brackets from the junkyard off a Maxima and a J30. The rear right seemed to connect fine but when I went to connect the rear left, it seems the line was too tight to hook the cable on the caliper. I loosened the ebrake cable as far as it would go but it was still a tight fit and I had to have a buddy compress the ebrake spring on the caliper to get it to connect.

As you might expect, the ebrake does not pull up all the way before it locks. Probably only about 25% the travel distance it did before and this is with the cable adjuster nut at the max.

Any ideas why this might be happening?

As a side note, I did notice my right rear (the one that connected fine) is still dragging. It was dragging before with the original caliper too. I am not sure if this is related or a separate issue altogether but I do need get back out there and do some more bleeding once I Altima MC comes in.
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Old 07-14-2008, 09:01 PM   #86 (permalink)
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I have used the brackets from P10s and 1st gen Altimas with no issues like you are describing. The Max ones need to be from a 93-94 SE. I'm not sure about using J30 ones. Try using some different brackets and see if that solves your problem.
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Old 09-21-2008, 11:38 PM   #87 (permalink)
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i just did this conversion on my 93 b13 se-r. i didnt change my mc. i just did the rear conversion every thing bolted up fine however my pedal feels very soft and i only get a little brake. i bled the system many times hoping to get it hard but it didnt. i think my car is non abs. what mc do i need to get?
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Old 10-04-2008, 09:47 PM   #88 (permalink)
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U13U Altima non-ABS mc.
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Old 02-25-2009, 11:53 PM   #89 (permalink)
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so back from the dead...can i use the calipers off a 94 J30? do i need to swap the brackets to keep th e brake?
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Old 03-11-2009, 05:05 PM   #90 (permalink)
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so back from the dead...can i use the calipers off a 94 J30? do i need to swap the brackets to keep th e brake?
As long as it is a J30 Maxima SE (92-94), not the Infiniti J30. The Infiniti uses a completely different rear brake setup. You will need the Maxima brackets as they are different than the B13 brackets. Look at the 1st post on Page 1 and you will see what I mean.
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Old 03-14-2009, 05:28 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coach View Post
I know a couple KY guys that need this Maxima upgrade!

Brent
i have the calipers/brackets and jdm rotors sittin in my garage....hehe
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Old 03-17-2009, 07:31 PM   #92 (permalink)
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I have the B15 MC which in this case is Nabco same as my U13 MC, both non-abs.



With the Wilwood 4-pots up front, they work great. The rears need to be toned down just a little bit, as under really hard braking they will sometimes lock briefly. Too much rear bias by a very small amount. If you're not using the car for track or autox, it's unlikely you will care. If you have to brake hard from 100mph before a corner, you might not like what happens.

I plan to find a variable PV solution for the rear, and as this was written up in SCC and I have found it rings very true:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Project Nissan Sentra SE-R - Boxcar Vs. Jellybean
Trying to scrub 50mph at the end of the short straight is terrifying. Sadly, the brakes we just installed aren't working as hoped. Initial bite is great, but the harder you push, the more things get numb and spongey. There's a moment of terror, as you wonder if the car will actually slow down, then surprise rotation as you realize the rear brakes have been locked for the last 100 feet and you're turning your new R-compounds square. Blame the pads for this one.
As DC recommended in his article, I am swapping to the Ferodo DS2500's now. I did not like the Hawk HPS; besides lacking in both initial bite and higher temp operation, they threw a nasty rust colored dust I found very hard to get out of the black finish of the Motgei Traklites. Possibly if the front works more effectively I won't see this behavior in the rears. At normal speed for autox, they just lock a touch with can be good or bad, but from higher speeds, both rear wheels will lock if you push down hard, even briefly, that sucks especially if your car is not going perfectly straight down the track.

I think there's going to be more to it than just better front pads, the rears have larger swept pad area and they sit further away from the center of the axle, even with crap pads I think they bite a little too much with the U13 MC PV's with stock line pressures:

B13
SE-R (F)782 (R)356-412
U13 MC
non-ABS (F)782 (R)356-412

I'll be looking for a variable PV soon I think, give the new Ferodos a chance first. Pedal feel is excellent as the pads and rotors broke in, DC had to use them day or less after installing them in really hot weather, and was not running a hi-temp brake fluid like Motul.

Oh, and if you use 11.0" Corrado rotors with B13 hubs, you need spacer rings from Fastbrakes. Ask me how I know...you'll want these or your rotors will cinch down not quite centered, you can imagine how that works out:




Dave Coleman did a pretty thorough writeup here and on the rears in the next installment:
Part 9: In The End, You Always Have To Stop - Project Nissan Sentra SE-R - Tech

And Greg V still has B13 plain, slotted, slotted/dimpled, the whole slew of B13 rear rotors already setup for 4x100 and 258mm x 9 mm (or more, that's the plain version). I also really like the lines he carries, they are great, hard to believe anything beefier than Goodbridge, but they are.

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Old 03-28-2009, 12:13 PM   #93 (permalink)
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SO this is who bought the car from SCC. Nice.
Thanks for the additional information that will help clear things up more than what I could provide.
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