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I have completed the B13 rear brake upgrade swap last weekend using all Nissan parts. I used JDM NX rear 10.1" rotors, J30 Maxima SE (93-94) rear calipers, U13U Altima master cylinder (95-98) 15/16" Tokico non-ABS, an B14 SE-R proportioning valves.
New OEM JDM NX rear rotors that measure 10.1". You could use the J30 Maxima rear rotors, but they are 10.2" and 5x114.3 bolt pattern. Greg at Mossy has the JDM NX rotors.
New loaded remanufactured J30 Maxima SE (93-94) rear calipers.
Old setup before removal.
These pics show the size difference of the JDM vs. USDM. 10.1" vs 9.2"
This pics shows the larger Maxima caliper on the left. It has a bigger piston, too. It will result in a softer pedal feel, unless you upgrade the master cylinder too.
The Maxima pad is bigger, which will give you more brake torque abilities, and will absorb more heat before fading or failing.
As you can see, the Maxima caliper bolt directly in to the rear hub. To access the brake shield, you must remove the 30mm nut and slide the spindle off. Then you just unscrew the 3 Phillips screws to remove the sheild. It is best if you use an impact driver as the screws could be rusted in good.
The finished product.
These pics clearly show why you must use the Maxima e-brake brakets if you want to keep your e-brake.
Remove brake lines like so. The gold hex things are the brake proportioning valves.
U13U Altima m/c 15/16" Tokico non-ABS VS. B13 NX2K 7/8" Nabco non-ABS.
Tokico unit.
Nabco unit.
Now properly bleed system by LF, RR, RF, LR, as per Nissan FSM brake bleeding sequence.
--PROPORTIONING VALVES--
If you have a Nabco master cylinder, I have found out by experimenting with different m/c's that the Nabco PV will not screw into the Tokico units and vice versa. BRAKE PRESSURES B13 cars
1.6L ABS (F)711 (R)284-341
SE-R ABS (F) 924 (R)498-555
1.6L (F)1067 (R)640-697
SE-R (F)782 (R)356-412
NX2000 (F)995 (R)569-626 B14 cars
1.6L (F)1067 (R)739-796
SE-R (F)924 (R)597-654 U13U cars
ABS (F)853 (R)483-540
non-ABS (F)782 (R)356-412 A32 cars
(F)782 (R)356-412 A32? cars (I30-35)
(F)1067 (R)739-796 P10 cars (G20)
(F)853 (R)526-583 P11 cars
(F)1067 (R)739-796 F31 cars (M30)
(F)924 (R)597-654 G50 cars (Q45)
(F)924 (R)739-796 G51 ?? cars (95+ Q45)
(F)1067 (R)739-796 Y32 cars (J30)
(F)782 (R)455-512
As you can see, since I upgraded to a Tokico unit, I had to find a Tokico sized PV and the closest car that has the same brake PV values is the B14 SE-R. The PV is the gold hex on the M/C. It controls pressure going to front and rear brakes. The PV's are dual proportioning, so it controls front and rear, even thought it's threaded into the rear output bosses on the m/c. **NOTE**Cannot use Stanza or Maxima PV's as they are Load Sensing Proportioning Valves (LSPV). The more the weight, the more the pressure goes to the rear. LSPV located on rear axle. --MASTER CYLINDERS--
The bigger the master cylinder, the harder the pedal feels, required when doing big brakes. Big brakes have bigger pistons, so that requires the m/c piston to move further to displace the same amount of fluid, which creates a soft or low pedal. When you put a bigger m/c on, the m/c piston doesn't have to move as far to displace the same amount of fluid, which creates a stiffer or higher pedal. **NOTE** Nissan had 2 suppliers of master cylinders, Nabco and Tokico. Be aware of which system you are working with and match the m/c and pv from the same supplier, as they don't fit from one to the other. B13 Cars
1.6L ABS 7/8"
1.6L non-ABS 3/4"
1.6L GXE and XE 13/16"
2.0L 7/8" B14 cars
1.6L ABS 7/8"
1.6L non-ABS 13/16"
2.0L 7/8" U13U cars
ABS 1"
non-ABS 15/16" A32 cars
ABS 1"
non-ABS 15/16" Z32
Twin Turbo 1-1/16"
ABS 1"
non-ABS 15/16"
__________________ 1982 Toyota Starlet with Starion turbo swap STOLEN!! 1986 300ZX Turbo with 87k miles 1991 Nissan Tsuru GSR2000 with UK SR20DE IT'S BACK!!!! 1992 Eclipse GS-X 325 hp SOLD 1993 NX2000 SOLD!
Last edited by NissanEgg : 03-07-2006 at 12:44 PM.
Sweet! Where did you get the reman'd calipers? Did they come with the e-brake brackets? If not, where'd you get them?
-Nic
I got them from NAPA. They charge a rediculous core charge. In all, I got back $260 in core just from the calipers. The core for the M/C is only like $35.
Only one caliper came with the bracket, I have to go to the junk yard today and get the other bracket.
I got the other bracket for $3 at the junk yard. It came off a 90 Maxima SE. Brackets don't matter what year J30 Maxima, but the caliper does. you want the 93-94 calipers.
Last edited by NissanEgg : 03-01-2006 at 01:57 PM.
nice write up. i'm cleaning and painting my calipers for the same project right now.
did your new MC not come with the PVs and fluid reservoir? this is the first i have heard of someone swaping the PVs.
It was just the m/c. Swapping the resevoir was easy, just pry off very carefully, and push into the new m/c. My pv were too small to thread into the new m/c, so I robbed the PV's off my buddies totalled 95? B14 SE-R. His m/c happened to be a Tokico also.
If you order the m/c from Nissan, it will come with the reservoir and PVs, but you don't want the PVs from the U13U.
Looking at the data you have on the PV's, if you have an NX, you'd want the B-14 PV's, but if you have a non-abs B13 sentra, you'd want the U13 PV. For me, with a sentra with ABS, it looks like I would be adding just a tad of rear-bias over stock with the U13 ABS unit, but it looks like I'd be doing the same with the B14 PV, just with more pressure all around? Are all B14 PV's the same, or is the ABS unit different too? This is also the first I've heard about the PV's coming into play in this swap. Very interesting. Thanks for all of the research!
This needs to be moved to the how-to section; nice piece. Yours is an egg, so you've got AD22VF up front, right? The AD22VF conversion by itself, at least on my B13 SE-R with stock MC, has way too much front bias.
__________________
'93 B13, etc.
If you don't have the patience
to do it right the first time,
how is it you have the time to
do it over and over again?
This needs to be moved to the how-to section; nice piece. Yours is an egg, so you've got AD22VF up front, right? The AD22VF conversion by itself, at least on my B13 SE-R with stock MC, has way too much front bias.
I am using the Fastbrakes 11" kit with 4-piston Dynalite calipers.
Before I installed the rear brakes, I had a pretty soft feeling pedal. Now it is more inline of what stock was with the new m/c and pv. I might try the 1" master cylinders to see how they feel.
Last edited by NissanEgg : 03-01-2006 at 06:18 PM.
Looking at the data you have on the PV's, if you have an NX, you'd want the B-14 PV's, but if you have a non-abs B13 sentra, you'd want the U13 PV. For me, with a sentra with ABS, it looks like I would be adding just a tad of rear-bias over stock with the U13 ABS unit, but it looks like I'd be doing the same with the B14 PV, just with more pressure all around? Are all B14 PV's the same, or is the ABS unit different too? This is also the first I've heard about the PV's coming into play in this swap. Very interesting. Thanks for all of the research!
The FSM's and Mitchell Catalog didn't specify whether the B14's PV's were ABS or not. Have to do more research on that. But make sure if you got a Nabco m/c to get a Nabco PV, and the same for the Tokico. I have the B14 SE-R m/c, but don't need it because of diameter is the same.
Also, according to the NOPI and Advance auto websites, all the '93 -'97 Altima's ran the same two M/Cs, that is, all models and years that were non-abs used the same non-abs M/C and all models and years that were ABS used the same ABS M/C. I thought I would post this as many of the threads on the forum about the maxima rear brake upgrade talk about getting a M/C from a specific year and model of Altima. The ABS M/C has two brake lines coming out of it, the non-ABS version has 4.
Great write up man,I have a question,my 91 SE-R came with ABS but I removed the control unit so I have regular brakes.Do i purchase an ABS or non ABS MC from a U13...???
Great write up man,I have a question,my 91 SE-R came with ABS but I removed the control unit so I have regular brakes.Do i purchase an ABS or non ABS MC from a U13...???
I would think you'd still need the ABS unit. How many lines do you have coming out of the M/C on your car now? Unless you changed the M/C and all of the lines in your conversion, you're probably going to need the (2-line) ABS unit. If you have 4 lines coming out of the M/C now, then you'll need the non-abs unit. Unless there's something I'm missing? Take my word with a grain of salt until the sr20 gods deem it worthy...
__________________
94 Aztec Red Sentra
Gtir Motor Swap with S3M Cams Love Fab Turbo Manifold
and a 3in turbo back.
Turbonetics 60-1 With a PWR Water to Air Intercooler
JWT Ecu 72lb program with Z32 MAF
Running a P11 Tranny with LSD and a JGY locking Insert
All Rolling on Drag DR20s and Ksports.
Best time of 2006 12.4 @ 111mph with a 1.87 60' only running 14psi
Great Writeup. If you don't mind posting it, what was the total price for this upgrade?
From NAPA the m/c and calipers were about $550 before core refunds. Caliper core refunds were $260 and m/c core refund was about $35. So in all, about $265 total.
Great write up man,I have a question,my 91 SE-R came with ABS but I removed the control unit so I have regular brakes.Do i purchase an ABS or non ABS MC from a U13...???
Yes, as from what I have seen in the junk yards and FSMs, the ABS has 2 lines and the non-ABS has 4 lines. If you have 2 lines, then get a ABS or 2-line m/c.
Great Writeup. If you don't mind posting it, what was the total price for this upgrade?
I have this same setup sitting in the garage right now. for reference, I paid $150 shipped to Andreas Miko for calipers and new rotors. $40 for a used Altima non-abs MC. So, a total of $190 through forum sales .
Oh yeah, I'm using the 11.75" Fastbrake setup up front...
__________________
Monty <--- Another victim of the go-fast crack pipe....
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