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Anyone have a write-up on how to do a headliner? Sunroof/no sunroof? I'm thinking about tackling it on my own now after reading this and thinking that the headliner is simple and flat...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serban
Making your car RHD would be the MOST pointless mod ever. Go get a job for the Post Office, you can be JDM 8 hrs a day.
'92 NX2000VE - SR16's, BC S&R's, Hot Shot intake w/ pop, SSAC header, 2000 SE disc, ACT HD PP, TWM shifter, FSTB & RSTB, AGX's for now, CSK's+RM's on the way, Prothane MM
I used to work in a upholstery shop. Dont put suede on the roof. If you want it to last ahwile. They make a nice black, grey, whatever color you want headliner material. When the roof gets hot which it really gets smoking in a black car, the glue gets soft and suede is heavier then the normal stuff . The headliner material is cheap, conforms to the headliner surface well and is a whole lot less hastle.
Its at most fabric, craft shop. Most car upholstery shops will sell it to you cheap as well.
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91 SE-R. R.I.P old freind
91 part 2
"Dream as if you live forever, live as if you die today." -James Dean
And, I don't mind at all being looked down upon by purists. Indeed I don't mind at all being looked down upon by those whom I do not look up to at all. -
Nice write up man! Wish I woulda seen this before I did mine, I didnt even think to use a dry wall blade. Just a side note on the glue though:
All those spray adhesives, 3M and the like have a down-side. The heat in the car causes them to revert to their liquid (non sticky) state and thus causes your fabric to lift unless it is very light and stretchy. I have done a few interiors over the years and I have found that the best solution to this problem is one that seems a bit ghetto, and after some resarch have found that it's how most of the pro's do it.
Head down to Home Depot (I know I know) and pick up a 1 quart can of Contact Cement. This stuff will hold your interior trim better than that damn super glue on that guys hard hat! The prefered way to apply it is by using a paint spray gun and compressor, but if you don't have access to one you can also brush it on with a sponge brush. (Just make sure you buy a lot of em!) I used this stuff on Tweed when I did a guys mini truck, and it held with no problems. (tweed is notoriously Non-stretchy) Hope my comment is helpfull.
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92 Nissan Sentra/GTi-R
-->12.9 @ 111 @ 13psi<--
88 300ZX Turbo (The Drift Project)
96 200SX (UDM Silvia)
"Life's Hard, It's Harder If Your Stupid."
Last edited by Gettinzidewayz; 09-29-2007 at 12:49 AM.
Yeah I forgot to update the thread, you are right about the spray adhesive, but I found outdoor carpet adhesive works best, brush it on and smooth your material down.
Nice write up man! Wish I woulda seen this before I did mine, I didnt even think to use a dry wall blade. Just a side note on the glue though:
All those spray adhesives, 3M and the like have a down-side. The heat in the car causes them to revert to their liquid (non sticky) state and thus causes your fabric to lift unless it is very light and stretchy. I have done a few interiors over the years and I have found that the best solution to this problem is one that seems a bit ghetto, and after some resarch have found that it's how most of the pro's do it.
Head down to Home Depot (I know I know) and pick up a 1 quart can of Contact Cement. This stuff will hold your interior trim better than that damn super glue on that guys hard hat! The prefered way to apply it is by using a paint spray gun and compressor, but if you don't have access to one you can also brush it on with a sponge brush. (Just make sure you buy a lot of em!) I used this stuff on Tweed when I did a guys mini truck, and it held with no problems. (tweed is notoriously Non-stretchy) Hope my comment is helpfull.
Excellent post. This past weekend my doorpanel on the driversside started to lift (used the 3M spray) and the hatch I recovered. I was told by my upholsterto use Contact Cement. He buys his stuff from the hardware store. He told me to get DAP (Welwood). And over use it. To clean up the excess around the edges use thinner or lighter fluid. It will dry out the material. but take off the excess with ease. Armor All or leather conditioner will fix the dry look.
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Last edited by Shawn B : 01-16-2008 at 03:50 PM. Reason: So I could flame him harder
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonny
Sudden draws of power at the hands of a sub(s) playing some Too Short will eat away at any alternator
Yeah I forgot to update the thread, you are right about the spray adhesive, but I found outdoor carpet adhesive works best, brush it on and smooth your material down.
nice write up, i think i'll be doing my door panels in my B14 becaues the current ones are from the factory and kind of ugly so i think it'd flow better in black. I'm going with a black and red theme in my car so I'll defnitely be doing that.
i agree on that home depot adhesive, i've laid down carpet a few times in my house and that worked great, even years later when we took it off to replace it with the hardword floors (7 years after the carpet was laid down) the adhesive was still holding it down very well.
man, this site gives me all kinds of ideas to do on car, i love this how-to section and will be adding my own how-to's soon!
__________________ PROJECT DD: 1998 200SX SE aka NIKKI"THE SPARTAN PRINCESS"
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