You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
For this install you can get the parts from either a 91-94 b13 sentra gxe, or a 91-96 p10 g20. I found the parts for my install on a g20 in a local pick and pull. This install is easiest in b13's that already have A/C. If you do not have a/c the only difference is you will need to find a different power wire to tap into. There are only 4 wires to splice into to connect the push control harness.
Click images to enlarge
Here is the G20 push control, the sentra part is exactly the same. All of the plugs in the back of the push control match the lever control except for the extra plug to control the door motors.
This wiring harness attached to the bottom of the push control is part of the g20's max cold door system that b13's do not have and it can be removed. Its held in place by 1 screw.
This is the intake door motor connected to the g20 blower box. I did not actually have to pull the whole box out but I wanted to see how it fit together. You only need the motor, the metal rod, and the small black piece that connects the rod to the white lever.
This is the mode door motor attached to the g20 vent box. You only need the motor, the metal rod, and the metal "star".
Here are the necessary parts all together. Dont forget to keep all of the associated mounting screws and bolts.
This mess is the entire g20 interior harness that I pulled out to trace the wires according to the fsm. You do not need to go through all of this. Just clip the necessary harness with pigtails. There are only 3 plugs that you need, the push control plug, the mode door motor plug, and the intake door motor plug.
Here is the harness stripped of everything that is unnecessary. The big white plug in the middle is for the push control, the little white plug above it is for the intake door, and the brown plug on the right is for the mode door motor.
Here is the wire harness soldered together and taped up. The loose black gets tapped into the ground wire on the fan switch plug. The red wire gets tapped to the green wire with a white stripe on the A/C switch plug. The 2 loose wires at the top are for illumination, connect them to the 2 wires from the lever control bulb plug.
Here is the wiring diagram of how the harness should be put together.
The install is pretty straight forward. All of the provisions to mount the 2 motors are already there from the factory.
For this install you can refer to the b13 FSM starting on HA-85. Before you can start the install you have to remove the entire dash. You also have to remove the metal bracing behind the glove box (4 bolts), and the lower metal bracing beneath the steering wheel (8 bolts). YOu also have to remove the passenger side vent "tube" its held in place with 1 phillips screw.
I started by installing the intake door motor first. First you insert the little black plastic piece, then install the metal rod. This is a very tight fit so be careful not to drop any parts! On the right you will notice there is a hole in my blower box. This happened because of a little black plastic tab that you have to cut/dremel off to make clearence for the intake door motor. The motor will fit under this tab but the metal bar that holds the dash together does not give you enough clearance. You can only keep the tab if you pull the blower box off of the car first.
This is a shot from under the metal bar of the 2 plastic tabs that the intake door motor mounts to
Heres the tab I snapped off.
this is the bottom of the intake door motor. The white clip can be snapped open, it is not threaded just grooved so the metal arm can rotate without falling out.
Heres the intake door motor getting postitioned.
Here is the intake motor installed and the metal rod connected.
I used electrical tape to fix my oops
Now on to installing the mode door motor. This is located on the drivers side of th e vent box. This is just above the gas pedal under the dash. You will have to contort yourself to work on this part. This is a picture of the cable and "star" you will be replacing.
This is a picture of the star you will be installing.
Cable removed, the small brack and star are next
These are the 3 mount holes for the mode door motor. the white lever to the right is what the cable from the center dash piece connects to. It opens and closes the 2 center front vents.
New "star" installed.
Mode door motor and rod mounted. This had to be the hardest part of the install for me. This is the most contorting and twisting I have ever had to do with my body to install anything on my car.
On to the wiring harness. These 3 plugs are for the fan switch (left), A/C switch (middle), lever control HVAC bulb (right).
The wires separated on the top of my index finger are the ones you will have to tap into. YOu will be cutting off the bulb plug on the right.
Wires have been tapped. It would be better to solder these wires together, but I did not have the luxury of powered outlets. I just made sure to use very tight twists.
New harness installed and excess wires taped together to clean up the install. The wires falling off on the floor to the left of the picture is the mode door section of the harness.
On this part of the harness I had WAAAAY too much wire left over. I had to wrap the wires for the intake door motor around the metal bar several times to take up the slack. The copper wire running along the bar is the custom ground wire I made for my headunit a long time ago. It connects to a ground point near the passenger side door.
Mode door harness connected.
Push control plugged up. You will be keeping the hot/cold cable, and reinstalling it on the push control unit.
Push control installed in the dash. I had a little trouble with this part because I think the b13 hot/cold cable is a little longer than the one from the g20. You will have to make sure your hot/cold cable is not binding when you push the push control back in the dash. I didnt have a problem with binding but I did have trouble holding the dash in place to screw the push control unit in.
This is just for people that havnt seen it. Here is the back of the b13 gauge cluster. The 3 large brown plugs are the ones that hold the 194 bulds that illuminate the guage cluster.
Here is a shot of the green 194 reverse connicle led's I bought off of ebay. I have tried many different types of led's but these ebay ones I have liked the best. the flat top led's seem to have the best viewing angle.
I forgot to add that before connecting the 2 metal rods on the 2 motors. You have to position the motors first. The intake door motor should be in the recirc on postition, and the mode door motor should be on vent mode (blowing in your face). On the push control until this is recirc button pushed in, and the left most mode button pushed in. You have to turn the car on with teh dash apart to set the motors.
I wanted to do this on my brothers B13 SE-R make everything electric to go along with the digital dash I did and maybe my girlfriends B13. I was going to dive into this mod myself but you beat me to it good job.
__________________ Now Metal Fabricating, Welding And Powder Coating. PM Me With Your Needs!
Did mine last weekend.. This writeup was great for reference. All electric is the way to go... Now my "Recir" works after years of a broken manual lever.
Also changed my cluster and gear selector 194 bulbs to Blue LEDs.
Thanks Fonque for your help. Now on to the next project: Suspension...
Why hasn't this been moved to the tech information library yet? This is a great wrietup! In fact, I will be looking for some of these parts tommorow at some pick'n'pull yards I'm going to.
__________________
~Ryan
1992 NX2000 Hardtop
1989 B12 AWD wagon
1996 200SX SE-R Slowly geting the boost-treatment.
Update: the SR20 has VET+T now, and P11 forward gears
Quote:
Originally Posted by abelsgotspeed
look i dont feel like searching its either you give me the answer or you shut the fu*k up
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscar
Easy rule when going turbo.... upgrade EVERYTHING. Because eventually you will need to.
If you have questions (and you might with the wiring...), let me know.
Hopefully, you took the large Star wrench to get the Passenger airbag off the G20.. It will be in your way.. (if the battery isnt disconnected, you might want to disconnect it!)
Yo, people who have done it, wihch part for the recirc door motor is used? #1 or #2 below? I got all the motors, and I think I got an extra motor!! Damn Pick N Pull place charged me $11 each motor!!! And $17 for the buttons! Oh well. Man, the G20's are also a PITA to work on under the dash. I ended up bending a bunch of the brackets out of the way to get to the bolts. Heres the pic
The Recirc door motor is #2 at the bottom right of your picture.... Installs behind and above the glove box.
It is oriented with the round part of the motor to the right (toward the passenger door). You must install the 2 screws
from the bottom under the dash frame.
Take the rod out of the black plastic boot on the lever and remove the black plastic boot from the donor plastic lever.
Use the plastic lever in your car (its easier)... Just, insert black plastic piece in your lever, then install the metal rod.
This is a very tight fit so be careful not to drop any parts! While installing this, I used a shop towel under & behind
the lever to stop items from falling behind the blower (lost a screw back there).
#1 is for the mode door: vent, defrost, floor, floor & Vent, etc modes.. and goes above the gas pedal.
yo if i have a/c already can i just swap out my hvac an put the g20 hvac without doin most of the stuff you did. like plug an play or no?
"This install is easiest in b13's that already have A/C. If you do not have a/c the only difference is you will need to find a different power wire to tap into. "
looks nice. very time consuming. my dash is starting to tear apart from the defroster vent on the windshield so when it comes time to swap dashs out i'll consider this. untill then this is getting archived. nice job on the write-up.
yo if i have a/c already can i just swap out my hvac an put the g20 hvac without doin most of the stuff you did. like plug an play or no?
Nope... The motors are necessary to install.. The NX HVAC controls has manual cables for the changing the mode vent door and closing the Recirculating vent door (fresh air). These cables/levers are replaced by these 2 quiet motors... NO cables or broken recirc levers. Just nice and quiet lighted push button luxury.
The "A/C already" will make the wiring easier and save you from actually installing AC components under the hood. Everything here is done inside the car. Hope this helps..
Scotty
I picked a push button control unit at the pull a part place today. It was in a '91 Sentra XE, and being used for the blower control only. $9.88 and it was mine. This place doensn't have any G20s, but tons of first gen Altimas. The Altima used a similar control, so I wonder if the control motor and other parts are the same as the B13.
__________________
1996 200SX SE-R VE powered
2004 Subaru Forester turbo
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX
Mods, I vote sticky for this thread, or it should be moved to tech section !!! A must ! This is a great write-up Charlie. Your contributions to this forum should not go unnoticed. Great work !
Last edited by Black_eNeX; 09-06-2006 at 09:48 PM.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
$9.88 and it was mine. This place doensn't have any G20s, but tons of first gen Altimas. The Altima used a similar control, so I wonder if the control motor and other parts are the same as the B13.
