how to remove power steering - SR20 Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 10-18-2006, 12:26 AM
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how to remove power steering

I did the power steering removal today on my 91 se-r. pretty simple I rate this a 5 out of 10 in difficulty. this is also my version of the removal, with the help of custom steels pully and bracket.

step one remove old ps belt


remove the 24mm banjo bolt from bottom of pump. it helps to have a lift to get to all of this.


also remove the resovor and the large and small hoses from the pump/ cooler on the frame rail



remove the top bolt and jam nut assembly from the top side of the ps pump compleatly removing everything out of the bracket.


now remove the two 12mm bolts and the one 14mm bolt from the backing plate. this has to be done from the bottom, and the bottom bolt is the piviot bolt for the ps pump. after these are out the pump will be able to fall out the bottom.






now remove the 3 14mm bolts that hold the cast bracket to the block.



now the block is empty now.


use 2 of the 14mm bolt from the cast bracket and attach the new cs bracket to the block.
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#2 (permalink) Old 10-18-2006, 01:31 AM
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now its mounted up.



now goto the auto parts store and buy a 4 rib 29 inch belt.


ull have to take the alternator belt off first but u know that right.lol

next im gonna show you how i removed the Reservor, this can be done in several diffrent ways but this is how i did mine with parts from auto zone.

get a small copper tube cutter and cut the 2 lines here.




buy a 3/8" tee from the hardware store and a hand full of 5/8 worm clamps. also pick up a couple feet of 3/8" fuel line of your choice. make up the loop like this.



also run through the rice asle at the zone and pick up a 3/8" breather and fuel filter.



remove the insides out of the filter.


basicly apply the filer on top of the loop setup you made earlier.a zip tie helps hold it in place



fill the filter up with ps fluid and tighten down the breather. i used an old gear oil bottle to fill it up.



also get a couple cans of brake clean and spray the crap out of everything that got leaked on for a while.

your all done now. first impressions were that i think i need a tie rod lol. u can feel alot now. also it pulls alittle better up top of 4th gear.

i hope this helps

tank

Last edited by TurboTank; 09-26-2011 at 06:21 PM.
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#3 (permalink) Old 11-11-2006, 10:54 AM
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ps pulleys

where is this ps pulley kit available from thanks
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#4 (permalink) Old 12-03-2006, 12:00 PM
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could you please show a diagram for the power steering system?

Thanks!
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#5 (permalink) Old 12-03-2006, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pddvl1
where is this ps pulley kit available from thanks
custom steel, one of the vendors on the forum

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#6 (permalink) Old 12-03-2006, 03:06 PM
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i dont understand why you need to use the filter, and breather? counldnt you jsut run a line between the two?

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#7 (permalink) Old 12-03-2006, 06:51 PM
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Belt

I dont understand why you cant just remove the power steering pump and run a shorter belt from the crank to the water pump.Instead of installing a "idler" pulley?
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#8 (permalink) Old 12-03-2006, 07:41 PM
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the idler puller is a tensioner. some people dont like to install a belt withouot having a way to adjust tension.

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#9 (permalink) Old 12-03-2006, 11:20 PM
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Now that you removed the power steering unit I was always told that you need to get a manual steering rack unless you will damage the power steering now that you removed it and your rack will eventually bind up. Someone Enlighten me.thanx

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#10 (permalink) Old 12-05-2006, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coryb13ser
i dont understand why you need to use the filter, and breather? counldnt you jsut run a line between the two?

bump

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#11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2006, 04:03 PM
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if you cap it off completely, its pressurized, and really hard to turn. the breather allows air to escape, and makes a huge difference in ease of steering.

correct me if im wrong.
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#12 (permalink) Old 12-24-2006, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEACH
Now that you removed the power steering unit I was always told that you need to get a manual steering rack unless you will damage the power steering now that you removed it and your rack will eventually bind up. Someone Enlighten me.thanx

Isnt the replacing your rack and pinion with a manual rack from a non-powersteering sentra also going to lighten up the vehicle just a little bit more?
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#13 (permalink) Old 12-25-2006, 12:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SentraDragon
Isnt the replacing your rack and pinion with a manual rack from a non-powersteering sentra also going to lighten up the vehicle just a little bit more?
Not really by much. Maybe a few ounces that the leftover lines weigh in at. His writeup removes practically everything that adds weight to the car anyways.

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#14 (permalink) Old 12-25-2006, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zalfano
if you cap it off completely, its pressurized, and really hard to turn. the breather allows air to escape, and makes a huge difference in ease of steering.

correct me if im wrong.
im not saying capping it off, im saying if you run a line from one end to the other, what is the need for the breether? if you cap it off your not going to b able to turn the steering wheel. the fluid needs to move.

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#15 (permalink) Old 12-26-2006, 05:49 PM
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im still kind of new, whats the point in removing this?
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#16 (permalink) Old 03-30-2007, 06:54 AM
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Which vendor by chance, and how much did they charge you?
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#17 (permalink) Old 04-10-2007, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninety-Nine SE-L View Post
so it HAS to breathe? It can't just be looped?
I just finished my VE swap into my 4 door and I decided that I would delete the power steering.

I did some searches and I thought to myself... why are people looping/capping the lines? When there is no pump to pump liquid through, and you turn the wheel, it acts as a pump. All the people said that power steering deleted suck had looped/capped their lines. Also, everyone said that the SE-R rack had sealed bearings, so the fluid has no lubricating effects.

I left mine open, no filter or anything. Thing is easy as hell to drive.

Sometimes you gotta think for yourself.
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#18 (permalink) Old 04-10-2007, 11:59 PM
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most bushings are made out of brass. which is a self lubing metal. but over time it can wear out and cause leaking or scraches on the bushing itself, kinda like how cyc walls get scarred up. having a little bit of help for the bushings doenst hurt anything.

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#19 (permalink) Old 06-18-2007, 12:18 AM
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I have my motor out in preparation of a swap, so I removed both of the lines that ran out of the rack up to the fender and on to the reservoir and pump. I already have a Custom Steel ps elimination pulley kit. My question is regarding the capping/looping or nothing of lines. Can I just leave this open:

Or do I have to create some type of loopin/venting as described in the posts above.

BTW, I pulled all of the factory lines, reservoir, pump, and cooling fins listed above and am saving them in case of leaks in either of my daily driven cars.

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teh NX............91 NX2000 AH3

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Last edited by happynole; 06-18-2007 at 12:20 AM.
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#20 (permalink) Old 06-18-2007, 12:26 AM
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Something like this?:

Just to keep crap out without sealing the system, right?

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