HOW TO: B14: Installation of JDM Crystal Clears and Corners - Pic Heavy

CovertRussian · 08-05-2007, 11:57 PM

How To Install Crystal Clears and Corners on B14's

I've been meaning to get around to posting this up, just didn't have time. I know there is another thread about installing the headlights, but there are no pics in there.

First things first, buy the Headlights and Corners.

You can get them from the forum member "Liuspeed" or his website.

You will need an 9003/H4 harness, which can be found in Autzone

1. Unhook your battery

2. Take the screw off that holds the corners to the headlight. Do this for both sides.

3. You will need to pull out the corner, it takes a little bit of work to get it out. Sometimes it might feel like your breaking it, do your best to carefully take it out. Unhook the wire that goes into the corner light bulb.

4. Take out the light bulb out of the corner

Now you will notice that USDM light bulb plastic holder has 4 flaps, while the JDM ones only have 3

USDM:

JDM:

5. You will have to use your USDM light bulb and plastic holder, because JDM ones have a different plug. USDM ones are designed to both stay on with the as turning lights. JDM ones are only meant for either staying on or as a turning light.

To be able to fit in your USDM light bulb/plastic you will need to cut off 3 flaps, leaving the biggest flap alone.

6. Try to fit in the USDM light bulb and plastic into the JDM corner. It was a perfect fit for me, but it might be different for other people.

Now if you compare the USDM and JDM corners, you will see why it is very difficult to use JDM headlights with USDM corners, and vise versa

USDM:

JDM:

JDM Headlight:

7. Now its time to take off your stock headlights. I had the most issues with this, because my bolts were rusted etc. So I didn't bother with taking pictures on how to take them off because I had to go with this method:

8. Now since your headlights are off it's time to work with your new headlights.

A. JDM headlights come with an extra hole for city driving lights, now since our cars don't have an extra wire to even hook them up, we will just cover up the hole. You can do what ever your mind feels like, but here is what I did.

I got some metallic tape:

Cut it in pieces:

And finally taped it on:

Started working on patching the back side:

B. The grill holders, these are not needed unless you are planning on taking off the stock grill holder.

NOTE - You do NOT have to cut off the grill holders on the headlights. You can just take off the stock grill mounts and then use the headlight's grill mounts for your grill

I cut them off:

(Thats my dad's butt, he was grinding away the rusted bolts)

CovertRussian · 08-06-2007, 06:00 PM

10. Time to cut the 9004/9007 harness and replace it with the 9003/H4 One.

Here is a picture of what you should solder the harness wires to. Sometimes the harnesses will have just all black wires. For that reason, you will need to wire depending on where the light bulb plugs into the harness.

Connect the harness, then test them. Do not solder on the harnesses until you have checked that they are working perfectly fine.

NOTE: You must have the ground wired up to the terminal that says "Connect to Black (Ground)". If you do not wire that one to the ground your headlights will be too dim, and the high beam light on your dash will always turn on!

If your high/low beam lights are reversed, then swap the wires position. Swap the wires of 1-2 or 4-5 only!

Once you get them to turn on properly, you can now solder the harness to the wires on your car.

Headlight Test:

Special thanks to SR20 91 SE-R for finding the problem with the wiring and informing me about it!

11. Use electrical tape to tape the wires separatley, then together, this is done to both keep them neat and preventing a short circuit.

12. Now you can put the headlights in place.

Align the side of the headlight with the fender holes:

I used these screws, M6-1.0 x 25.

You can get the bolts from Autozone, I bought a whole set of Japanese car screws, bolts, etc.

Screw them in..

You also have two bolts that need to be tightened in the back, you can use the stock nuts, but I decided to use the ones that came from that pack of screws

13. Get the 9003/H4 lights in (you can do this before you install the headlights, or after.

Picture of the headlight in place and harness connected to the lamp

Headlights are in place and tightened:

14. Installing the corners. Connect the corner harness wire into the corner light.

15. Then gently work the corner in place, whatch the little flap on top. Align that flap with the hole in the headlights, then put a screw in. I had no problems with fitment, I don't know if you will, just try to be careful not to break anything.

Headlights and Corners in place, note I took my grill off because I replaced it, you do not need to take your grill off.

Thats it, just clean up, hook up your battery and try them out.

Some pictures of what I have:

CovertRussian · 08-06-2007, 06:01 PM

Pictures from this post have been migrated with the writeup

CovertRussian · 08-06-2007, 06:05 PM

Please let me know if you have suggestions or a better wording or if you see my spelling mistakes

2dr_sentra · 08-06-2007, 06:16 PM

Thats some ghetto wiring

TommyD241 · 08-06-2007, 06:29 PM

Good job! Nice write-up. Now if I can get you to do a write-up with pictures when you install your SSAC header I'll be set! Lol.

NismoB14SX · 08-06-2007, 06:51 PM

yeah, awesome writeup, lots of pics, easy to understand, word up!

CovertRussian · 08-06-2007, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2dr_sentra

Thats some ghetto wiring

Thats the presoldering picture, I did this on both sides

Quote:

Originally Posted by TommyD241

Good job! Nice write-up. Now if I can get you to do a write-up with pictures when you install your SSAC header I'll be set! Lol.

Thanks a lot man! I will do my best to get a writeup for the SSAC header

Quote:

Originally Posted by NismoB14SX

yeah, awesome writeup, lots of pics, easy to understand, word up!

Thanks a lot bro!

It was very confusing at first, but now that I have installed them, looking back, it seems really easy

chris/sr/se · 08-08-2007, 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ninety-Nine SE-L

you know, instead of taping off your city lights, you can just go to advance auto and get a set of general purpose 194 bulb sockets. It's a beige 90* rubber-like socket.

I was just about to ask... What great DRL's. Thanks

CovertRussian · 08-08-2007, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ninety-Nine SE-L

you know, instead of taping off your city lights, you can just go to advance auto and get a set of general purpose 194 bulb sockets. It's a beige 90* rubber-like socket. Here's an example (not the same one I used):

Great idea!

But then they would stay on with the corners right?

Which would would render the fog light mod pretty useless right?

CovertRussian · 08-08-2007, 09:31 AM

Thanks man

I used the crimp connectors because I was planning on doing something else with them, but then just ended up soldering the wires onto them...

I also put bunch of solder down in the crimp connectors too

Mike · 08-08-2007, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ninety-Nine SE-L

DON'T: use crimp connectors of any type unless you want the job to be temporary. They're bulky and almost always fail.

I have to disagree with you on this one. If you crimp a connection properly it will outlast a soldered joint. (ratcheting crimpers for the MF win!) I know it may mostly be peoples preference to solder because it's easier and seems more efficient but all the factory connections are crimped for a reason. The vibrations from the road and the effects from the environment will cause a solder joint to oxidize, crack and eventually fail over time.

Don't get me wrong though... I'm a big fan of soldering

I used to solder all my connections on everything I worked on and I never had a problem (during normal use). I recently had to make an extension for my o2 sensor wire so it could reach my j-pipe for my t25 turbo and I decided to crimp it. I splurged and bought a ratcheting crimper off of ebay to get the job done and it came out awesome.

On a side note: CovertRussian I think the lights came out great. I would however redo the wiring. If you are going to solder I'd cut both ends clean and solder them like Ninety-Nine SE-L mentioned. I'd also use some good shrink wrap instead of electrical tape. They sell the good stuff at any good electronics store (NOT Radio Shack!) It's designed for outdoor use and it has a special sealant inside the sheath that seals the joint from water seepage (something like this)

Just an FYI: This is the type of crimper I used. link It designed to crimp weatherpack "type" connectors and after a little modification it will work great with the Nissan connector pins (see my o2 sensor extension thread).

Nice write up non the less

Mike

CovertRussian · 08-08-2007, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

I have to disagree with you on this one. If you crimp a connection properly it will outlast a soldered joint. (ratcheting crimpers for the MF win!) I know it may mostly be peoples preference to solder because it's easier and seems more efficient but all the factory connections are crimped for a reason. The vibrations from the road and the effects from the environment will cause a solder joint to oxidize, crack and eventually fail over time.

Don't get me wrong though... I'm a big fan of soldering

I used to solder all my connections on everything I worked on and I never had a problem (during normal use). I recently had to make an extension for my o2 sensor wire so it could reach my j-pipe for my t25 turbo and I decided to crimp it. I splurged and bought a ratcheting crimper off of ebay to get the job done and it came out awesome.

On a side note: CovertRussian I think the lights came out great. I would however redo the wiring. If you are going to solder I'd cut both ends clean and solder them like Ninety-Nine SE-L mentioned. I'd also use some good shrink wrap instead of electrical tape. They sell the good stuff at any good electronics store (NOT Radio Shack!) It's designed for outdoor use and it has a special sealant inside the sheath that seals the joint from water seepage (something like this)

Just an FYI: This is the type of crimper I used. link It designed to crimp weatherpack "type" connectors and after a little modification it will work great with the Nissan connector pins (see my o2 sensor extension thread).

Nice write up non the less

Mike

Thanks for the info Mike!

It seems like the SE-L's have some weird grounding issues, so I will be stripping my work and using Heat Shrink. 2dr_sentra suggested heat shrink other other day too.

Would Autozone's be good enough?

Mike · 08-08-2007, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CovertRussian

Would Autozone's be good enough?

I honestly don't know if they have the "good" stuff or not. I don't remember seeing it on the shelves last time I browsed the electronic section.

Try checking a good electrical supply store or a mom n' pop electronics shop.

Mike

CovertRussian · 08-08-2007, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

I honestly don't know if they have the "good" stuff or not. I don't remember seeing it on the shelves last time I browsed the electronic section.

Try checking a good electrical supply store or a mom n' pop electronics shop.

Mike

I will take a look

CovertRussian · 08-09-2007, 02:21 PM

I got some heat shrink, that stuff is pretty sweet, but I'm not sure if it closes the wire all the way, but it seemed like it.

I will post up new pics as soon as I redo my headlights wiring.

2dr_sentra · 08-09-2007, 02:38 PM

crimp connectors with head shrink ends FTW!

Mike · 08-10-2007, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ninety-Nine SE-L

a ratcheting crimp is only good for installing terminals and connectors at the end of a wire. That's why it's used so much in automotive, because there are many connectors in a car. When you're extending a wire or joining 2 wires together, I will only trust a soldered connection. The heat shrink provides plenty of insulation against weathering.

I may consider getting such a crimper for my grounding terminals, however, I will stick to solder in jobs like this. Most people use the Smush-type of crimpers that just squeeze the wire in place and I always see the wire eventually slide right out.

They do sell different crimper dies to do regular insulated butt connectors. Thinking about it I agree soldering two wire ends together is a better rout if your just extending the wire. With a butt connector you wont have a good way to seal it off (shrink wrap over the connector ..lol. not!)

Because I'm anal about things like this I would have gotten a stock Nissan connector and made an adapter. This way if you ever need to go back to stock (you sell the lights or the car etc..) nothing needs to be modified to put it back to it's original state.

Mike

ChrisLoB14 · 08-10-2007, 01:25 PM

if you are going to use crystal clear headlights and want to use hid too, do you have to use the h4 hid?

CovertRussian · 08-10-2007, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

They do sell different crimper dies to do regular insulated butt connectors. Thinking about it I agree soldering two wire ends together is a better rout if your just extending the wire. With a butt connector you wont have a good way to seal it off (shrink wrap over the connector ..lol. not!)

Because I'm anal about things like this I would have gotten a stock Nissan connector and made an adapter. This way if you ever need to go back to stock (you sell the lights or the car etc..) nothing needs to be modified to put it back to it's original state.

Mike

I believe I saw plugs that go into 9004/9007 sockets and then have 3 wires that you can solder the 9003/H4 socket onto. These can be found in Autozone for about $6 per 2.

Too bad I only found these after I already sliced the wires