HOW TO: remove old rubber engine mounts - Page 2 - SR20 Forum
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Old 09-12-2007, 09:28 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Great writeup!

This post would be great in the Technical Library
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Old 09-12-2007, 02:47 PM   #22 (permalink)
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X2.... I agree.. i did mine and had to piece how to do it together from different threads after searching for about 2 months. I used "cold" chisels and some penetrating oil.. the oil made a HUGE difference.
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Old 09-12-2007, 10:17 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by stealthaltima View Post
you are joking right?
no...just pointing it out if he's trying to put phrases in to help someone trying to search.
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Old 09-19-2007, 01:40 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by turbofied View Post
Another tip is to make sure you have somthing like flat timber/metal to even out the pressure otherwise the mount will go in cocked and it will pop back out.
very true, i have nearly ripped a prothain in half when useing the hydropress. you deffinatly need something to distribute the pressure evenly or else you could have some crazyness going on.
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Old 09-19-2007, 10:45 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lazyieg
i beg your pardon, i could be wrong, but i've seen it spelled prothane...i'm guessing the original post was a typo or i don't know what i'm talking about.


otherwise very helpful thread. bookMARK!!!
you are joking right?
yeah it is prothane......like http://www.prothane.com/

why would he be joking?
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Old 03-16-2008, 06:59 AM   #26 (permalink)
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If you're thinking about a LCA brace, save yourself a step and install the motor mounts first. That way you won't have to take the brace off when you install the mounts a year after you installed your LCA brace.
BTW, these mounts work with a GA16 also. I just installed them in my NX1600.
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