HOW TO: Build a (Quiet & Inexpensive), 3" Side Exit Exhaust
***Awesome for you sleeper turbo guys on a budget, or people who like a more reserved tone***
This how to is just a guide to make yourself a very nice exhaust for under $200 that will be more quiet than any aftermarket exhaust (even on an n/a car). The exhaust will fit perfectly on a b13 w/ only two cuts involved. It worked VERY well for me… length wise the pieces were an exact fit, and fitment is very tight. As a matter of fact there are only 3 welds needed. If you don't believe me ask some of the boys from the last Ohio meet.... its quiet as hell. Video's will be up soon... The exhaust is very sound, but just keep in mind. Using this guide, you will not use a catylic converter (which is illegal in states with emmision regulations). Installing an exhaust w/o abiding by your local OEPA regulations is illegal and should be done at your own risk. On that note, if you want to follow this guide and do a side exit with a cat for emissions purposes, just understand that it will probably be a little louder. Special Thanks to Don (aka TOOQUIK) for parts sources and Glen from Magrino Innovations for welding this baller exhaust together for me in such a limited amount of time!!
This is the beauty… I’m currently using this exhaust on my b13. I have the car lowered to where I have two finger widths from top my tire to the fender in the front and rear on a 195/50/15 tire. In other words I’ve got a moderate lowering on my ride. In order to get the larger 6” diameter resonator to fit the removal of the middle exhaust shields from underneath the vehicle in necessary. This isn’t an issue as this resonator doesn’t get as hot as the smaller diameter resonators. I can reach my hand under and touch the exhaust with m hands after a good run no problems. The shifter & center console doesn’t get warm at all. I have it pushed as far as it gets under there and I have no problems with the ebrake assembly either. There is literally only a few millimeters of clearance from the side walls of the exhaust passage so getting the fitment tight is imperative.
Materials Needed for Super Quiet Side Exit: Total Cost = $127-196
Extra Materials that May Be Needed for Including a Cat:
1 - 3" Straight 16 Gauge Steel Pipe (Ebay) $20-$30 *** Only need 5" Straight Section
1 - 3" 90* 16 Gauge Steel Bend; 4.5" Rad. & 6" Legs (Ebay) $10-20
1 - 3" 45* 16 Gauge Steel Bend; 4.5" Rad. & 6" Legs (Ebay) $10-20 (optional)
1 - 3" Perforated Magnaflow Resonator Part# 12641 (36" Total Length; 6" Width) $70-90
1 - 3" Two Hole Exhaust Gasket (Ebay) $3-8
1 - 3" Two Hole Steel Exhaust Flange (VRS or Local Exhaust Shop) $7-17
2 - 3" Exhaust Clamps $2-3
1 - Universal Wire Exhaust Hanger (Auto Zone) $2-3
1 - Heavy Duty Swivel Exhaust Hanger (Auto Zone) $2-3
2 - 17mm Bolts & Corresponding Nuts $1-2
2 - 3" Two Hole Exhaust Flanges
1 - 3" In & Out Catylic Converter (Length = x)
1 - 3" Resonator 6" Diam (Use Length = 36" - x - 1")
4 - Jackstands
1 - Racing Hydraulic Jack
1 - 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm Open End/Ratcheting Wrench
1 - 3/8" Ratchet
1 - 1 - 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm Deep & Shallow Sockets
1 - Sharpie(R) Permanent Marker
1 - Self Tapping Screw for New Swivel Exhaust Hanger
1 - TIG/MIG Welder, or a Good Friend that can Weld for You
1 - Sawzall, Bandsaw, Grinder, Table Saw, or Dremel w/ Large Cutting Wheel (Something to Cut Exhaust Piping)
Here is an example of the 3" exhaust clamps you can use to clamp the 90* bend into the back end of the new resonator
Here is the gasket side
of the 3" flange you can buy, this is an extra one I bought for later, you will weld the front side of the resonator directly to the other side
of this flange
Here is an example of a Swivel Hanger you can purchase from any autozone or parts place... for the end of the side exit.
Here is an example of the Universal Hanger you will use for the 90 bend hanger in the stock location... Glen cut the bracket part in half and welded this end to the 90* bend... its all shown below, Let's get this How To started!!!!
1. Getting Ready
--- First thing you want to do is to make sure you have all the parts & tools you need ready. You will have to make sure that you have a 3" downpipe with a 2 bolt flange before you can use this procedure, as the 2.5" downpipe will probably use a smaller flange and it won't bolt up. I bought a 3" downpipe from VRS Exhaust, other known as ______ in Florida. I bolted mine up a few days before the exhaust install to make things easier. I had to modify the stock cat hanger at this point to fit the 3" downpipe, but a better idea is getting a 9" piece of steel bent rod and welding it to the underside of the downpipe to hang it.
. You have to have the cat hanger intact if you want to do the side exit exhaust...
If you would like a list of where I purchased my other side exit items, please look above in the materials list above. The second thing you need to do is remove your current exhaust... Chances are if you modify your car, you have an idea of how to drop your current exhaust.... so I won't get into that. Take the time to set everything out and look how everything will be pieced together. Mock the setup out if you can. The 90* Bend should slip right into the end of the resonator nice and snug... later this piece can be clamped into place to allow for adjustability.
Piping Laid out (aside from 45* bend)
Here's a side shot of some of the hardware
The one on the right is a 4" Resonator!!! So yeah, 6" is huge!!!
2. Mocking Up Under the car & Removing Heat Shields
--- In order to allow the 6" wide resonator to fit the removal of the first two heat shields under the car is necessary. You will not need them if you use the 6" wide perforated magnaflow. The resonator is so damned big it displaces heat very well while allowing flow. The heat shields that you need to remove are the one right underneath the shifter, and the one directly behind it. You do not have to remove the heatshiled at the 90* bend.
Get your car up on all four jackstands (you will need as much room as you can underneath there). After you ensure the car is sturdy get out your 10mm and remove the heat shields described above. If you live anywhere in the midwest where there is heavy snow, chances are these bolts are rusted solid... they will most likely break when you remove them. Get your resonator and slip fit in one leg of the 90* bend. Hold it up in the exhaust channel where it will be mounted and imagine how the exhaust will come together.
My african behind test fitting at Don's crib...
The resonator is heavy... I suggest using all 4 jackstands and getting the car up high...
3. After you mock... its time to get everything welded
--- Here's the cool part. Getting everything welded... I had some VERY good help getting my exhaust done. One of my friends Glen ended up helping me out last minute! The first thing that needs welded is the 3" flange that will bolt to your downpipe. I was told that TIG welding is the best for this part since MIG welding will add more mass to the bolt hole area, but if MIG is what you have them MIG it is, the extra metal can be ground away from the holes later. The mating areas that were to be welded were cleaned up with a small grinder and the flat side of the flange was layed face down on the welding table... I held the resonator centered vertically on the back side of the flange while Glen tacked a couple spots to hold it in position. From there he finished the circle and we let it cool down.
After the weld cools, grab your 3" 2 hole exhaust gasket, and both your 17mm nuts and bolts. Get under the car and have your friend hold the newly flanged resonator into position. Get your hydraulic jack and raise the back end of the resonator into its position while a friend holds up the front end. After the jack is in place, bolt up the front side of the resonator to the downpipe and hanger assembly (don't forget the gasket).
After your done it should look kind of like this...
This is how we held up the rear part of the resonator...
Not much farther to go! Grab one of your 3" Exhaust clamps and slip in on the exit end of the resonator... Find your 90* Bend and slip it into the end of the resonator. Push it in and center the bend along path the heat shield follows toward the passenger side of the car. Once you get this piece centered, get a permanent marker and mark a vertical line on the resonator lip and the 90* bend so you can remember the angle it was twisted. You don't have to tighten the exhaust clamp yet.
Grab the 3" Straight section of pipe and measure out 5" of pipe
. Next cut this 5 inch section of pipe and go clean it up with a dremel/grinder. Take the 90* Bend out of the resonator and weld this 5" section of pipe to the other end. Allow the piping to cool down.
After the pipe has cooled, slip it back into the resonator and line up the lines you previously drew on the 90* bend and the lip of the resonator. Next grab the last piece, the 45* and mock it on the end of the straight section that was just welded on. Have a friend hold the piping where you like it and step out of underneath the car. While your friend is holding the pipe, find where you would like to slant cut your exhaust and mark it with your sharpie marker. After you have found how you want your exhaust cut you should re-mock the pipe up to the exhaust. Push up the straight section and get everything where you want it to be mounted w/ the 45* bend mocked up... Mark the pipes with your sharpie marker. Tack, and then weld the 45* to the newly welded sections of pipe, and allow it to cool.
Your pipe should look something like this at this point...
4. "Hang it up Rock, Your Done!"
--- After your piping has cooled down enough to handle it... slip the 90* end back into the end of the resonator... Line the piece up where you had it. Grab your Universal Wire Exhaust Hanger. Slip it into the stock rubber hanger just to the drive side of the 90* Bend how you want it in there... Take your marker and outline the inside of the hangers holes onto the 90* Bend. Slip the welded pipe out of the resonator (I know, don't worry - its the last time) and place it on the welding table. Take the hanger and tack weld it in place. You will notice that you have a long end left over. Heat up this end and red hot bend it around the exhaust pipe with a drop hammer or small sledge. After its cooled down a bit, tack the extra metal to the exhast pipe in place. Take the pipe and slip it back into the resonator for the last time. Tighten the clamp (that's on the end of the resonator) over the new exit pipe to hold it in its position.
Take the self tapping bolt and the heavy duty swivel hanger. Place the hanger in position to hold the 45* bend tight against the bottom of the car on the passenger side. For the tapping bolt find a place that is empty under the car so you don't go through your floor. Use a good drill to make a small hole for the bolt to go in. Slip the bolt through on of the swivel hanger holes and bolt it down. Use a 3" exhaust clamp to hold everything steady.
It should now look like this... The exhaust hanger hung low though so...
... Glen decided it would be better to just weld the swivel part to the actual pipe. It looked cleaner.
The way we did it isn't necessarily the best way to do things but the measurements are exact to get you in the right direction. The exhaust fits perfectly on my b13 and I've yet to find a hill to scrape it up. The bottom of the resonator actually sits up a little higher than the flex on the downpipe. The exhaust does rumble a little bit at 1000rpm on cold start ups but it is NOT loud at ALL. I know of some people on the forum that have actually used a 6" resonator and have been successful as well... but this will NOT work if you like a slammed car... it just wont. My car is lowered but only a little bit... and I love it. I can drive it every day no problems and even ask the Ohio boys that came to the meet... its very very quiet. I still am surprized at the outcome. I plan to eventually paint my exhaust tip black to go with the dark theme of the car and call it a day. I've been rockin it for almost a week now and I've run into no problems, even took a 200 mile trip in her.
Your DONE!!!!!! Pictures and Video's in Post #2 & Post #40!!! YAAAAA!!!!
More VIDEOS Pending!!!