Step 5: Remove Transmission
First we need to be able to get to the transmission, this requires removing various parts that are in our way.
We'll start by removing the exhuast. I found its easiest to just remove the secondaries from the exhuast manfiold.
Using a large wrench unbolt the AIV Tube from the secondaries. There will be a 10mm bolt that holds a bracket to support
the AIV tube. Locate it and remove it. Follow the tube up away from the secondaries where it connects to a rubber hose.
Losen the clamp on the rubber hose and pull the hose loose.
Then remove the 3 14mm bolts that connect the secondaries to the exhuastmanifold. Use a deep 14mm socket.
Once they are loose, pull the secondaries down and out of the way as much as possible.
Remove the AIV hose from air box. then Release the 4 clamps on the air box and lift it up. Remove air filter.
Under the airfilter, the bottom half of the airbox has 3 10mm bolts that hold it to the engine bay, remove these.
Next remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the intake resinator box to engine bay. Using flat head screwdriver remove MAF sensor plug and unhook 2 other wiring connectors that are attached
to intake tube.
Remove 1 small vacuum line from the intake pipe, and one large vac line that is secured with a push clamp. Remove the large breather
hose that runs from the valve cover to the intake pipe.
Unscrew the clamp that attaches your intake pipe to the throttle body. After losened, you can remove the intake pipe/MAF/resonator/airbox as
Next we need to remove the starter. Go underneath the car, look on the backside of the engine near where the transmission mates to the block.
Once you've located the starter, remove one signal connector from it. There is also a power wire running to the starter attached
by a 10mm bolt, remove it. Now from above the engine, along the top of the transmission towards the firewall, there are 2 14mm bolts that attach the starter to the bellhousing.
Remove these, however it is best to have a helper holding/supporting the starter from below. This prevents the threads in the starter
from stripping out when you have all the weight resting on the last few threads.
From above the engine bay, remove wiring harness connectors as required along top of transmission and along driver side frame rail.
You will eventually remove all of these, so don't be picky. Just try to remember what goes where. Inspect the transmission for
wiring connectors that you need to remove. If your car is a 1992 or newer, you will have a speedometer cable coming out of the firewall
and running down into top of the transmission. Unscrew it from the transmission, and push out of the way. If you're car is a 5spd,
you will also see a clutch cable. Using the adjustment screws along the cable, make slack in the cable, and unhook the
cable from the shift fork. You want to clear enough room to be able to get to the transmission bolts along the top of the transmission.
If you have a 5spd transmission, there will be a front "dogbone" mount that attaches from the block to the cross member. You need to
remove the 2 12mm bolts that run through this mount. (Not pictured)
Support transmission underneath with a jack, if you have access to a transmission jack then use it.
Along the top of the transmission, Remove 2 17mm bolts from the bellhousing. Then Remove 3 17mm bolts down the front side of
If its an Automatic, Remove the shifter cable from front of transmission, there are 3 12mm bolts on the transmission, and one 12mm bolt on the block.
Remove and drain the transmission cooler lines.
Next you need to unbolt the rear motor mount bracket. It is located under the intake manifold, and most easily accessed from
underneath the car. There are 3 17mm bolts and 3 14mm bolts in total that attach
the rear motor mount bracket to the block and transmission. This does not include the bolt that goes through the actaul
rubber mount, this one you do not need to remove. Remove these 6 bolts and the rear mount bracket should be lose enough
for you to move up and down/side to side by hand. It might take you awhile to find all of these bolts are they are hidden in
pockets of the rear bracket. Take your time and locate them all before continuing.
Using the jack, raise the transmission up slightly enough to be able to reach the bottom 2 14mm bolts by using an extension
and a swivl over the crossmember.
If you have an automatic transmission, you need to unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate. If you get under the engine
and look towards the transmission right next to the cross member on the driver side you will see an access plate.
Remove the 2 10mm access plate bolts. By rotating the crank with a 27mm socket, you now have access to the 4 14mm flex plate
bolts thru this access panel. Removing them can be a bit tricky. I ended up using 2 extensions and a swivel. You might need
a friend to hold the crank from rotating when you loosen these bolts.
Next you need to remove the driverside transmission mount. There is 1 14mm bolt that attaches the mount through a bracket into the
frame rail. Remove this. Then you need to remove this mount bracket that is attached to the frame rail by 2 12mm bolts.
Slowly let down the jack while using a crowbar to separate the transmission from the block. The transmission will need to
pull out towards the driver side of the engine bay, and then down and out. Go slowly and be careful to not drop the transmission
or smash your fingers!