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Go Back   SR20 Forum > What's New > Technical Information Library



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Old 07-12-2005, 02:37 PM   #21 (permalink)
wacked2882
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all four
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Old 10-01-2005, 06:55 PM   #22 (permalink)
98sr20ve
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For the B13 its all four but its not needed as much. Key thing for a B13 is to install the bottom nut as flush as possible to avoid possible interference with the Progress swaybar if you ever decide to use that. The B14 is only the front. B14 Rears are shocks and they are 1 piece.
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Old 11-15-2005, 04:32 PM   #23 (permalink)
beatdown se-r
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i have one question are you using stock sturts as the shell for the koni inserts?and if not is that a possibility.because the shortened konis are not adjustable right somebody give me some feed back thanks
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Old 11-15-2005, 08:05 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beatdown se-r
i have one question are you using stock sturts as the shell for the koni inserts?and if not is that a possibility.because the shortened konis are not adjustable right somebody give me some feed back thanks
You can use OEM struts or any aftermarket struts as the "shell". They are all a little different and all require a little work to get the insert to fit just right. I have found that Monroe Sensa-Trac struts are the most consistant and require the least amount of work.

Not sure what your second question is exactly, but the Koni red inserts are adjustable for rebound dampening, but you have to remove the springs in order to adjust. The Koni yellows are adjustable for rebound dampening as well, but they are externally adjusted, so they can easily be adjusted at any time with the adjustment knob.
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Old 11-15-2005, 08:25 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Using my method stock struts work fine. The B13 ones are a little smaller then the B14 ones. B14's are going to be to big for the B13 inserts and B13's are going to be to small for the Spec V and other inserts. But you can make them fit if you file/grind the insert a little. All Koni's are adjustable in some fashion.
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Old 12-16-2006, 04:01 PM   #26 (permalink)
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any one have a part number for the b13 short koni's
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Old 01-14-2007, 06:53 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I've been looking and searchig as well, I think we need the 8611's.

BTW - Steve, do you still perform this service?
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Old 01-14-2007, 07:01 PM   #28 (permalink)
veilside180sx
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I don't believe Steve is currently offering it, as his time is VERY limited.

The 8611's are wonderful but not required.

You can run either the B13, B14, B15, or Maxima inserts depending on which housings you are going to use them in.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninety-Nine SE-L View Post
I'm sorry I didn't copy everyone else's setup. If you need a preacher to tell you what mods to put on your car, the Reverend Veilside180sx might have a suggestion.
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Old 01-14-2007, 07:08 PM   #29 (permalink)
Naghebe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veilside180sx View Post
I don't believe Steve is currently offering it, as his time is VERY limited.

The 8611's are wonderful but not required.

You can run either the B13, B14, B15, or Maxima inserts depending on which housings you are going to use them in.
I'll probably be using stock B13 housings, with Road Magnet springs (325,250) any suggestions on choosing between the different inserts? TIA
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Old 01-14-2007, 07:32 PM   #30 (permalink)
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The B13 are probably going to be the easiest, especially if you don't ever intend to run a stiffer spring than that.
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Old 01-26-2007, 05:58 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naghebe View Post
I'll probably be using stock B13 housings, with Road Magnet springs (325,250) any suggestions on choosing between the different inserts? TIA
Me too

Which housing and insert I choose for a B13 if I want 4 yellow (externally adjustable) with RM ?

Thanks
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Old 01-27-2007, 11:32 AM   #32 (permalink)
98sr20ve
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I still sometimes do this work depending on my schedule. I am starting to build them in advance so that people don't have to wait.
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Old 01-27-2007, 05:46 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I updated the first post with more pictures and a writeup for those that have this thread in thier notification system.
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Old 02-23-2007, 09:50 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Hi Steve, just read through this post again. This time I thought about the method for having clean threads after the cut. A good option may be to get a set screw from the fastener house of choice to fit, screw it in the bottom of the hole first, do the cutting, and when you screw the set screw back out it cleans the threads. Get the set screw short so the cut misses it and the socket head top. A countersink touched in the hole before removing the set screw will remove any burrs if done right too.
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Old 02-25-2007, 11:22 PM   #35 (permalink)
98sr20ve
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OR, you screw the bolt into the bottom of the Koni. Cut the Koni and the bolt at the same time on the chop saw. You end up with a small piece left in the Koni and a short bolt with a perfect cut because the Koni nub is still in place around the bolt. Unscrew the bolt from the remaining piece of the Koni, then drill two small holes in the part now stuck in the Koni. Poke some needle nose pliers into the holes and back the part out of the Koni. Now you have two perfectly clean cuts. BUT, you better know where to put the bolt. It's not all the way in but its close. It also varies a little depending on which housings you are using. I don't recommend my way unless you really know what you are doing.
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Old 03-03-2007, 05:16 PM   #36 (permalink)
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hey steve, i just cut out the oem strut innards from my b13 front housings yesterday and i tried to put the specv konis in and it looks like the extrusions/nubs towards the top of the strut insert(like in pic 2) interfere with the insert going into the housing so i was wondering if you have to pull those nubs into the housing with the screw at the bottom(like a lug nut and wheel stud type of thing)? or do you cut the actual housing shorter to accomadate the nubs. i looked at the insert in the housing and it doesnt look like the threaded part at the bottom is even close to touching the bottom especially if i cut the half an inch or so off of it.
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Old 03-03-2007, 09:09 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Are these the struts you guys are using?
Brand: Koni
Product Line: Koni 8611 Series Double Adjustable Race Strut Inserts
Internal Design: Twin-tube
Adjustable: Yes
Gas Charged: No
Boot Included: No
Extended Length (in): 19.690 in.
Collapsed Length (in): 14.060 in.
Body Diameter (in): 1.713 in.
Upper Mount: Stud
Quantity: Sold individually.
Notes: 5.63 in. stroke, 11.42 in. body length, and is designed to fit through a 5/8 in. bearing camber plate assembly.

Race Strut, Insert, Double Adjustable, Twin-Tube, 19.69 in. Extended/14.06 in. Collapsed Lengths, Front, Each
If They are, I am testing the waters for a group buy.
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Old 03-03-2007, 09:36 PM   #38 (permalink)
silvia1320
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im using the b15 spec-v inserts on the fronts and agx's on back with road magnet springs
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Old 03-03-2007, 10:04 PM   #39 (permalink)
pathfinder7
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These are daily drivers. b13 senta ser, b13nx2k
The 1.5 in. drop in the front is killing me. Why well I did not listen to you and the vet,s of this forum. I bought/installed the Tokico blues , Performance kit, on the SER. I am worried abought breaking something.
I am wearing out the new bump stops and it is getting worse. do not want to make another mistake. Worse of all my wife quit driving it. Not good
I need help. Ed
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Old 03-03-2007, 10:05 PM   #40 (permalink)
pathfinder7
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mabe I should ask, how does it ride?
Ed
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