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i dont think i can do much about the paint on the konis to make them fit in the aftermarket strut. the wall thickness is almost twice as thick as stock so i got another one today at the junk yard. it has a nissan part number on it so im hoping its gonna work. also steve where do you get your bike headset spacers from? or is a stack of half inch washers alright?
5mm Headset spacer. From a bike shop. Aluminum no carbon. Look at my picture again. I don't use any washers other then the big one Koni provides. I also do not use the wave washer. Picture shows how it's done and what parts to use.
ID is all that matters. If the insert barely fits you can take the paint off and it will slide in perfect. Don't use the nubs in that case. Cut the tub too just below the nubs and jb weld it in place.
Always make sure your housings are clean clean clean inside. You want a perfect bond with the JB Weld and the housing.
Not to be rude, but if you don't understand what to do by looking at these pictures then maybe you should not be doing this. Also, READ THE KONI INSTRUCTIONS. I always feared being too helpfull with this stuff would make people that should not be doing this feel they can do it and even worse....NOT FOLLOW MY DIRECTIONS when doing it. Basically, you are only inserting the Koni into the oem housing further. The Koni instructions cover how to handle the top part. You just need to cut the housing shorter and make sure the nubs barely go into the housing 1/4 inch or so. To much and you hit another ramp on the koni and it can split the housing over time. JB WELD is just used to backup the bolt at the bottom. JB WELD the bottom cavity of the housing and the top part just where the insert and housing transition. Use the exact materials in my pictures above. Nothing else. Nothing subsituted. It is also helpfull to have at least one bolt that is full length with some extra washers to help draw the insert into the tube. The threads in the strut are now soo short you can only move it a small amount at one time. By stacking up the 5mm spacers and tightening the bolt you can move it into the housig 5mm at a time, then remove a spacer and do it again.
98sr20ve,
I recieved all the parts to start the assy, just cleaned all the sludge off of the b13 OEM struts, next, mark the strut center line to drill and drain.
just thought I would let you know your info is being put to good use.
Thanks Ed
No don't bother adding oil. The top doesn't have to be secured independantly because the insert is held in from the bottom. Most people add a little bit of JB Weld to help secure the insert as well though. (it's really personal preference though)
I'm sorry I didn't copy everyone else's setup. If you need a preacher to tell you what mods to put on your car, the Reverend Veilside180sx might have a suggestion.
Worked on the suspension, b13 front struts shortened for the
8610 1409sport, thought I would insert a couple of pics.
98sr20ve, I hope this is okay just thought it would give some diffrent methods on how to do it per your instruction. I just need to add the JB weld and spacer. Any comments?
Last edited by pathfinder7 : 03-26-2007 at 05:47 PM.
Reason: addon
__________________ VVL
'94 SE-R w/ VE ....sale pending "Relax, alright? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I CAN FIX IT."
Worked on the suspension, b13 front struts shortened for the
8610 1409sport, thought I would insert a couple of pics.
98sr20ve, I hope this is okay just thought it would give some diffrent methods on how to do it per your instruction. I just need to add the JB weld and spacer. Any comments?
There is no difference between what I did and your instructions
they worked perfect, what i meant was my method of doing it was diffrent. I used a black and decker 425 work bench in my back yard to hold the the struts while I center marked the struts and drilled and drained. I then marked the 55mm mark from the opposit end of the drilled hole and cut that section off of the OEM struts. I then used your advice on installing the bolt into the Koni strut and cut it at the same time I cut the nub off.
The measurement I used in cutting the bolt supplied by Koni is that I cut off the same amount that I cut off the nub on the strut. If that makes any sense, it equates out to approx. 4 threads off the end of the bolt.
Ed
Last edited by pathfinder7 : 03-29-2007 at 10:46 PM.
Reason: grammer
The measurement I used in cutting the bolt supplied by Koni is that I cut off the same amount that I cut off the nub on the strut. If that makes any sense, it equates out to approx. 4 threads off the end of the bolt.
Ed
I screw the bolt in till it bottoms then i back it out 1/2 a turn, then I cut the strut nub where it says "Holland" , leaving 1/2 the holland showing. If the bolt doesn't bottom out in the strut then you got a LONG bolt and you will have to recut more off latter.
BTW, I just did 3 sets today. 2 of the three had a fat weld that needed to be ground off the bottom all the way around. They wouldn't even go into the housing with that lip on the bottom. It's obvious if it happens to you. I think Koni needs to adjust their welder so it doesn't leave that ring around the base.
I completely understand about the welds, I had to do the same.
I did not want to mention I am grinding welds off of a cartridge/insert. I do not know if it is weakening the cartridge, but that is exactly what I had to do. The only suggestion I would have is, only remove the min. amount off the welds as possible to get the cartridge to go into the OEM housing. And even with that I had to rotate the cartridge inside the OEM housing to get it around the stamped indentions on the OEM housing. I finished the fronts today with the JB weld. They measured out damn close, for shade tree work.
Last edited by pathfinder7 : 03-30-2007 at 08:31 PM.
Reason: aaddon
I have a question.
After ordering my Koni inserts, I recieved 2 ea Koni Maxima
p/n 86-2435 STD. ADJ. Front inserts. Not good, they are too short for the rear of the b13 SER, I am going to try to use them on the
NX2K front end.
Will they work? I have not measured them.
I have a question.
After ordering my Koni inserts, I recieved 2 ea Koni Maxima
p/n 86-2435 STD. ADJ. Front inserts. Not good, they are too short for the rear of the b13 SER, I am going to try to use them on the
NX2K front end.
Will they work? I have not measured them.
wasn't it stated before, if you want to run Maxima Insert, you need Maxima/Altima housing the 2" ones. and that's for the front only. paired up with the B14's front insert in the rear.
Okay, KEO this is one of those moments I have to admit.
"Read the f---cking posts" which I did not. Thanks for slappping me awake. I will have to return them.
And for all those people that are on the fence trying to decide to do this on there own or have
sr20ve do them, this is one of the hassels you can eliminate by having someone expierenced do them for you.
Last edited by pathfinder7 : 03-31-2007 at 09:32 AM.
Finished, Thanks you guys, I'll put them on the front of the ser today, (update) I installed them, just finished, I used the new RM springs, the threaded rod coming out the top seams long, I installed a stack of washers on top of the strut assy. and tightened down the nut. It seams to have worked, I will drive it tomarrow and leave my oppinion on how it worked out,
Last edited by pathfinder7 : 03-31-2007 at 08:52 PM.
Reason: Update
Okay guys, the results of the RM spring Koni specv insert combo is excellent. period. A big thank you goes out to 98sr20ve & Keo.
All of the info is there, and I am sorry for mucking up this thread.
Ed
Got a question about the first photographs in this thread, posted by Steve.
From what people locally have showed me and explained to me... this picture sets off red flags... here is why:
I thought the whole point when "shortening" konis was to change the mounting point from the tip to the brim around the edge... the only reason we cut them up is so we can use a more acceptable spacer and fit them in the front without rubbing our axles on our struts.
Got a question about the first photographs in this thread, posted by Steve.
From what people locally have showed me and explained to me... this picture sets off red flags... here is why:
I thought the whole point when "shortening" konis was to change the mounting point from the tip to the brim around the edge... the only reason we cut them up is so we can use a more acceptable spacer and fit them in the front without rubbing our axles on our struts.
Anyone?
It doesn't matter where it rest. Once you cut the hole, fill the bottom of the strut with JBWELD and bolt it together the entire bottom of the strut is supported by either metal or JBWeld that flow all around the bottom. So actually the bottom of the strut is better supported then in the way Koni has you do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taiden
I thought the whole point when "shortening" konis was to change the mounting point from the tip to the brim around the edge... the only reason we cut them up is so we can use a more acceptable spacer and fit them in the front without rubbing our axles on our struts.
Anyone?
I don't understand that statement at all. The point of this whole excercise is to lower the insert in the housing, in a safe manner. You cut the nub because if you didn't it would be too long and hit the CV joint.
BTW, IF YOU ARE NOT USING JBWELD AROUND THE BOTTOM TO FILL THAT CAVITY THEN YOUR STRUTS ARE NOT SAFE. YOU NEED TO BACK THE ENTIRE PROCESS UP WITH JB WELD SO THAT THE SHORTENEN NUB STILL WORKS BUT THE JBWELD NOW CARRIES A PORTION OF THE LOAD THAT A FULL LENGTH NUB AND BOLT USED TO CARRY.
It doesn't matter where it rest. Once you cut the hole, fill the bottom of the strut with JBWELD and bolt it together the entire bottom of the strut is supported by either metal or JBWeld that flow all around the bottom. So actually the bottom of the strut is better supported then in the way Koni has you do it.
Alright. So basically it doesn't matter because you're in effect making a mold for the entire bottom tip of the strut out of JB weld. I imagined it resting on the brim, but using jb weld on the sides just to absorb some of the movement from standard suspension movement.
VVL 
admit.
