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Alright. So basically it doesn't matter because you're in effect making a mold for the entire bottom tip of the strut out of JB weld. I imagined it resting on the brim, but using jb weld on the sides just to absorb some of the movement from standard suspension movement.
When you JBWeld around the top and the bottom and bolt it in there will be no movement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taiden
How do you go about getting the JB weld in there? Do you load up the section between the brim I had circled in the previous post and the tip and slide it in? Crank it down, let the excess pour out the hole, clean it up and bolt it down?
All you do is use a Popsicle stick to smear some around that weld area at the bottom and around the top just below the point it transitions from the koni to the tube. The JBWeld will flow around the bottom pretty well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taiden
Also, the cheapest I've found the Spec V front inserts for is $420 shipped. Anyone got any other leads?
I sell them for 145 shipped. Buy them from me because I helped you do all this stuff.
I am hearing that the Spec V inserts now require you to install the GC collar BEFORE you put the Koni in place. Maybe Koni changed the top part of the strut but better get your threaded sleeve on first now it seems. Or at least check your to make sure it will go over the inserts top hat/nut.
I am hearing that the Spec V inserts now require you to install the GC collar BEFORE you put the Koni in place. Maybe Koni changed the top part of the strut but better get your threaded sleeve on first now it seems. Or at least check your to make sure it will go over the inserts top hat/nut.
I was the one who told Steve about this. I finally got around to cutting the housings enough for the inserts to fit, and when I went to check and see if the collars were too tall, I noticed the top washer on the insert, was too big for the collar to slide over. My inserts had 8610 on the bottom of the nub, if that makes a difference.
__________________
1996 200SX SE-R VE powered
1991 Sentra SE-R
2004 Subaru Forester turbo
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX
I'm sorry I didn't copy everyone else's setup. If you need a preacher to tell you what mods to put on your car, the Reverend Veilside180sx might have a suggestion.
The maxima insert is a lot bigger. For the life of me I don't remember this issue with other Spec V inserts. Maybe I just don't remember. I always check these things out of habit anyway.
98sr20ve,
I have a question?
I have the oem/koni combo complete on my b13 ser. Front and back.
The ride is great, BUT.. there is a rattle in the rear, and it is only when I go into a corner and as far as I can tell, it is coming frome the rear upper mounts, strut mounting insulator and/or upper seat. what do you think. Do I need new ones,
which I have for the NX, or do you think I made a mistake on reassembly.
Ed
f you are certain that Koni is not loose in it's housing then it's possble that the nut is not tightening down on the top mount OR the top mount is worn.
I retightened the top bolts after I drove a few miles to let everything settle in. I will pull the wheels off, and inspect everything. I used your suggestion on the JB weld, so I do not think it is that. I will let you know what I find out. I am baffled
Ed
Yes and yes, Thanks for the follow up, Let me make sure on all your questions, I will pull the wheels and triple check the nut on top and sway bar.
Thanks a bunch.
Ed
Since I didn't cut as much of the nub off as most people, and the inserts fit in just below the 2nd set of nubs, do I need the JB Weld? I also wrapped the top of the inserts with duct tape to keep the GC collars from moving around.
I would do the JB Weld. You have still removed over 1/2 the bolt AND are not fastening the bottom as securely with the larger hole. JB Weld flows around the bottom nub and prevents side to side movement.
98sr20ve, I apologize.
I said I had a OEM sway bar. I do not, It is a ST sway bar, The slight rattle is still there but I have not been able to pull it apart, I am sure it is something I did not do correctly, as soon as I figure it out, I will post it, I am not scared by my ignorance. just worried......
Ed
Last edited by pathfinder7 : 04-28-2007 at 07:49 PM.
Is that picture after you used the bolt the suck the koni into the housing? If so then its perfect. Just does not seem to jibe with how long it is in the first picture. Seems from looking at the above pictures in previous post that your nub is long. Bolt is hard to tell. This is one reason to cut the housing shorter then the nubs and JB weld the top tight. That way you can slide the Koni in and not have to fight the tension the nubs create. Then you know for certian the nub is not to long and going to stick out too far.
