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I have know how to do this for years but have never told anyone out of an agreement I made. The cat is out of the bag as evidenced by the picture on the Attached ThumbNail at the end of this post.
I did this to my own car about 4 months ago with no problems but a couple changes.
I actually took about a 1/2 of inch off of mine and then drilled a 1-inch hole in the bottom of my strut. I then stuck that part the bolt attaché’s to thru the 1-inch hole and put a 1 1/4 inch bicycle headset spacer on the bottom of the strut and then the OEM Koni washer tightens down onto that. I was real worried about this moving around so a got some Magna ??? Epoxy and put that all over the bottom of the Koni before I inserted it into the cartridge. When it tightened down it squeezed all around the bottom of the Koni and chemically welded it into place. I also used some JB Weld on the top part. This lowered the strut about 1 inch in the housing. Don’t forget to get the weld on spring perch’s from G.C.. Makes a real nice setup. B.T.W. mine were old 70K+ on them and I know that Koni will not warranty any strut that has been used with lowering springs so I didn’t care about epoxying them into place.
This is how they should look when you are done. After you do this cutting you put a good bead of JB Weld around the bottom ridge between the main strut part of the Koni and the remaining nob. Then another bead just below were the Koni sits near the top of the oem housing. All the JB does is reinforce the mechanical fastening so that it can never move. Do not do this with out the JB Weld as over time it will vibrate loose due to loading and unloading of the suspension forces.
For some reason the picture below is in the wrong place now. I can't seem to move it so here it is. This picture with the white car in the background is a GRM article picture about how to do this. My way is shorter but requires epoxy to be safe. Done right it is safe. I have never had a single unit come loose at the bottom.
EDIT: I NOW USE JB WELD ON THE TOP AND THE BOTTOM. Magana Weld is fine for the bottom but I prefer JBWeld.
Why is the Shock Picture in front of the Grassroots Honda Civic SI????
Because they posted the information on their website. If you read my original post I stated that I have know how to do this for a while BUT promised not to say anything to someone. Now that GRM put this out there I was relieved of my promise becuase everyone will/would find out about this soon enough.
This is interesting - a while ago (at least a couple months) I read someones instructions on the internet on how to shorten and install Koni inserts. I'm willing to bet they had been up for a while.
They however, cut the entire nub off the end and welded the shock in (of course very slowly and carefully).
According to the bottom of the page, it was last modified 2/02, so its probably been up for at least a year now.
Aaron
Interesting. B.T.W. That is what motivational does. I prefer my method because it is DIY and doesnt cost much and has no chance of overheating the strut by welding it.
I found out people are using another method that basically does not work well so I thought I would bump this thread so people know how to do it right.
Some additional hints
1 Key to this whole method is to not cut the bolt too short and to only leave enough of the knob at the bottom so that it still works. A small 3/8 inch threaded area is ussually enough to do the trick.
2 Unless you really know how to do it it helps to have several bolts of different lengths to draw the strut into the housing. Also helps to have several different size spacers to do this with. Several 5mm and 10mm would be good.
3 Key as well if to not have to top part too tight or loose. JBweld the top and bottom sence you are cutting off most of the knob.
4 Do not shorten the rears in the same way as the front (my method). Use the GRM article as your guide. Also, you can JBWeld the rears in place and cut about 1/2 the knob off and use a shorter bolt (or cut the oem one). If you JBweld the bottom and get the hole just right you can ommit the big flat washer and save even more space for the swaybar that progess makes.
Hope this helps. Remember I only charge 75 to do the fronts and 125 to do all 4. It's a fair price and I have nice clean cores now and I can sandblast and paint them up as well. Just added the sandblasting ability so cores will look nicer
Edit. People may wonder why I tell everyone how to do this. I only think its fair for people to be able to provide a good quality suspensioin for themselves. BUT, I need to warn you. You need to know the basics of working with tools, and metal to do this. You NEED to know the feel for when things are going to be too tight or loose. If you start JBwelding stuff and it is wrong you are F&*K'd once it's set in the wrong place. Also, if you do things too loose then you can cause a very unsafe product. I have known many who don't follow my directions properly and make the tops to loose. They will CRACK if you do that. Also, all the struts that nissan used VARY (thanks Nissan). I have even had one side fit perfect and the other be too loose. It's an easy fix (shim it with metal) but you need to know the basics of when something feels too loose. So there you have it the power to save a little money if you like. Just be carefull.
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Car and Driver predicted the future accurately when they wrote that "poems will be written about this engine [and] ballads will be sung." <talking about the FWD sr20.
That is not the way I do it nor do I recommend for the average guy to do it that way. Follow my method unless you are truely an expert welder and then you would not be asking for advice anyway.
Although I have one question for steve here. When cutting off the nubb the small amount, Is the best method to grind it off or use a hack saw? Obviously youve got to make the cut as level as possible for the washer, the bolt and everything fasten snuggly. I was just wondering off hand..
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2001 SE - Baby
1991 SE-R - Brother Owns this.
1997 B4000 - Sister Soon to own this.
2011 Toyota 4runner
Although I have one question for steve here. When cutting off the nubb the small amount, Is the best method to grind it off or use a hack saw? Obviously youve got to make the cut as level as possible for the washer, the bolt and everything fasten snuggly. I was just wondering off hand..
That is a pretty good picture writeup of the method. I use a 5mm Headset Spacer from a bike shop. 1+1/4 size. I also cut a touch more off. I also jbweld the top just to be safe but if it's sized properly its not needed. I use a chop saw. Also, Koni provides a perfectly good washer so skip the fender one, it's too weak to draw the insert into the housing if the insert is properly tight.
What you need to be worried about is cutting the bolts to the right length and then having enough of a bolt left to draw the insert into the housing. Or to be safe get an extra bolt that is oem lenght to use after you cut the others to length. The insert does not just slide into place. It's a tight fit on purpose. So once you cut most the threads off its a balance on using a long bolt and then a bunch of spacers to draw the insert into the housing.
What i may do is use nuts that fit the screw to work as the spacer as i draw it in. I am also looking into screws with the same thread pitch so that i can practice on it.. it would suck balls to screw up that little detail. Instead of going for the gusto and ripping apart my 120 dollar koni's, I've been using similar materials and practicing Cutting them down and making them level. I have a feeling that becuase of my method of cutting(angle cutter/grinder vs Chop saw), I will need to purchase a tap and die. I have to do a write up for b15 (by demand) with pics.. I will get some detailed pictures.
What i may do is use nuts that fit the screw to work as the spacer as i draw it in. I am also looking into screws with the same thread pitch so that i can practice on it.. it would suck balls to screw up that little detail. Instead of going for the gusto and ripping apart my 120 dollar koni's, I've been using similar materials and practicing Cutting them down and making them level. I have a feeling that becuase of my method of cutting(angle cutter/grinder vs Chop saw), I will need to purchase a tap and die. I have to do a write up for b15 (by demand) with pics.. I will get some detailed pictures.
If you cut the thing with the bolt inside then you drill two holes on the outside of the remaining piece in the strut. Then use small neadle nose plyers to turn the bolt out. As long as you dont tighten the bolt all the way down it will come out clean.
Great write-up Steve. The picture write-up posted above is from my website. I did that a long time ago, shortly after Steve posted the info from Grassroots Motorsports. I took that little bit of info, and jumped into doing it myself. I have since done about 4 sets of these, and have even learned more tips and tricks. I will hopefully get around to updating the picture and writen one some day.
Good point on the rear one. When I did my first set, I found out later the hard way that the Progress bar didn't fit the rear. I barely cut any off the threaded portion in the rear, since I saw no interference like the front has with the CV shaft. Since I had JB Welded the hell out of the top and bottom, I just cut about another 1/2" off the threaded portion and ground down the bolt to fit.
Steve, one question. Where are you sourcing the 12mm fine thread bolts that the inserts use? I am having a heck of a time finding them. Even Mcmaster doesn't have them.
Steve, one question. Where are you sourcing the 12mm fine thread bolts that the inserts use? I am having a heck of a time finding them. Even Mcmaster doesn't have them.
I use the ones Koni supplies. If you cut the insert with the bolt inserted you can cut them both to proper length at the same time. You really need to know what your doing like this. OR Just cut them with a hacksaw in a vice.
I tried to source shorter ones, but just ended up grinding the Koni ones shorter. Now cutting the insert and bolt at the same time, that is a great idea
Just be sure to NOT bottom the bolt out in the hole. After the cut you need to drill two small holes in the piece stuck in the strut insert and then you can use needle nose pliers to get the piece out.
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