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Every morning, when I fire up the car, it crazy idles and jumps from 800 rpm to 1.5 rpm.. and it keeps goin back and forth.. I'm not sure what the problem is.. Any suggestions? I replaced the cap and rotor, spark plugs, and it's still doing it.. I checked for gaps on the cap and rotor and there's no problems..
Every morning, when I fire up the car, it crazy idles and jumps from 800 rpm to 1.5 rpm.. and it keeps goin back and forth.. I'm not sure what the problem is.. Any suggestions? I replaced the cap and rotor, spark plugs, and it's still doing it.. I checked for gaps on the cap and rotor and there's no problems..
I have the smame problem. Anyone?
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92 NX2000 Highport JDM sr20de Custom W.A.I., Full 2.25" Exhaust w/Apexi WS2, Prothane Motor Mounts, Coilovers, F & R Strut bars, AC delete, Bumped timing, Ziex 512 rubber, Custom Grounding Kit.
I just installed my S4 cams, I'm very happy with the performance above 5000 rpm, even though I haven't had any time to take it to the dyna, but whenever I speed up my car and I have to make a stop, the revs are going very low and sometimes the car turn off. Is this caused because of the S4s, and I just need to get used to it? Or is there anyway to solve it?
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1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R SR20VE Swap ---> Sold
^^^I'm having similar problems with my S4s right now too...
I found a vacuum leak, fixed it, and now the problem is all but corrected. Mine just likes to rev to 1500 or so, all the time. Push the clutch in while cruising, going downhill, whatever, and *BAM!* 1500rpm. It's ridiculous. Sound like another vac leak, or just needing tuning? Playing w/ the AAC screw doesn't do much either... do I need to disc. the TPS and/or AAC harnesses before messing with that? The screw is currently all the way in (the way I bought it from Jamie@P2; SERCA 06). I feel like a noob!
///H
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...another thread invasion from Harry, who came back and noticed that everything was suddenly fcuking different. What happened?
Not on the forum much lately since neck injury - we'll be back at it soon, babying the n00bies.
JWT S4, HS 6, Home Depot Intake, Hypercoil 2s w/ KYB "GR-Poo", CF Sunroof Delete panel, and other crap - where's my interior?
Where is the crankshaft position sensors? Too don't know if it the same everyone else been having, but when my car warms up after driving for a while the idle drop real low and sometime dies. I drive a 92 Nissan ser with a jdm motor no egr. Anyone know what this could be? TIA
recently removed the egr, ac out of my 92 se-r. also installed a jwt pop charger and ssac 2.5 header. all the vacuum lines have been plugged. replaced the spark plugs and changed oil to full synthetic. car starts fine, but immediately jumps to 3k and then back to 2k, then up and down from 3k to 2k over and over. checked tps and it seems ok. throttle screw didnt help. any ideas? the alternator belt was also replaced with the shorter 6 rib napa belt.
I just installed my S4 cams, I'm very happy with the performance above 5000 rpm, even though I haven't had any time to take it to the dyna, but whenever I speed up my car and I have to make a stop, the revs are going very low and sometimes the car turn off. Is this caused because of the S4s, and I just need to get used to it? Or is there anyway to solve it?
As far as I know it's just an S4 thing. My JWT ECU seemed to help fix the problem a little though.
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Home of the low (Original) Mileage B13
1992 B13 SE-R - Original Owner. 66K 2004 Avante XD2 GT - DD 2000 Miata LS - Top Down Fun!
I have the S3 cams with the JWT ECU. I used to have idle issues with the RPMs dive bombing to around 500, sometimes as low as 300 and then climbing back up. Then on Super Bowl Sunday my idle went up to 1700 RPM because my AAV got stuck at 80% open. I replaced it with a spare I had sitting aroung that I cleaned out really well with throttle body cleaner.
Still had the dive bombing issue, so I hooked up my laptop (could have used a cheap used PDA) through my Conzult cable (could also have used a Blatz) and using NewKleer's ECUTalk software,
( http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread....0&goto=newpost) saw that the AAV was around 50%. I looked in the FSM and saw that the correct value for the AAV readout was "between 20 and 40% at idle." So, I adjusted the idle screw (JWT ECU is set for a 950 idle to keep it from stumbling) until the AAV read 30%. I did not unplug the TPS, I just adjusted the screw until the reading was right. I had to readjust it the next day (maybe it needed to learn a bit the next day) but ever since, the idle has been rock steady.
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Tim Rogers
'93 NX2K- Sapphire Blue, HS Gen 4, JWT S3's, Ported & Polished, P/R CAI, JUN Flywheel, Coil-over / AGXs, 15X7 RPO-2's, 205/50/15's.
'91 NX2K- Black, parts car
'92 NX2K- All out SCCA Improved Touring A race car.
Yes, it's Greg Amy's former car.
And yes, I've broken it...
Last edited by NX2KTPR : 02-10-2007 at 02:07 AM.
Reason: Gotta give some links, man.
I have had my 91 sentra SE-R for almost a year and a half. I just put a jdm sr20de in it 10,000 miles ago. I, like some of the others on this thing have had problems with the idle dive bombing, especially when I come to a stop or push in the clutch. The problem is, I've seen all this stuff about everything, and I don't know which solution is for what problem. Is there someone out there who can tell us how to fix this specific problem?
Last edited by lomedicojb : 04-20-2007 at 07:50 AM.
Reason: Forgot some stuff.
What is the impact of plug gap on idle smoothness? Guessing larger gap rougher, smaller gap smoother all other things the same? Curious because my plat plugs were pre-gapped at .044 and book says 0.033, running them first with the preset.
Already had to replace the AGI Solenoid because one of the posts was broken, that seemed to help. Old plugs when I check really were toast, burnt insulators and gap > 0.050". new plugs seemed to help but things are not as good as should be.
Esp with lights, stereo, other ACC but not A/C on, the idle has a hard time staying level around 800-900.
Also have some surging and hesitancy under deceleration, not smooth as could be.
Drove CC from Orange County to CT, 3000 miles, no issues, it's the around town driving vs wide open freeway at speed. Even now at speed it's awesome, just the idle isn't great.
EGR seems to work fine, I am guessing more electrical or sensors - strangely enough I sometimes (rarely) see the CEL light up very briefly under hard acceleration. I've never had a Nissan ECU do that, but this one is a JWT special, so no guesses there...
And not to forget, bad ground. I cleaned my main ground cable, the MAF ground, all the contacts that bolt into the chassis.
No more idle issues, no more dropping and rising, or dropping when using ACC, lights, stereo, etc.
Good sticky thread, helped me a lot eliminate the EC culprits until I found I just had a less that great ground from the motor and the MAF wire, goodbye crappy idle
ive replaced my iacv, cap/rotor, grounding kit, reground maf, plugs, and still have the divin idle, stalls, and stumbling....have a jdm motor...so now what?
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1991 xe....dead(boneyard)
1994 e.....dead(parted out)
1993 nx2k....dead(road kill hit by a f150)(parted out)
91 sentra E jdm sr20de swapped, HIEPDTO^UFSW...dead(chopped up, molested and parted out)
2007 hyundai accent DD for now
1987 pulsar se AWD-T
www.lubedealer.com/dkinney
for all your amsoil synthetic oils and filters
also sell ngk , mother, wix, and other products!
Its amazing how many of us have this problem, Its like the common cold we all get it but not much seems to help it. Mine just started the surging today. Its a lowport g20 wijth an auto. This weekend i guess ill start the diagnosing.
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91 SE-R. R.I.P old freind
91 part 2
"Dream as if you live forever, live as if you die today." -James Dean
And, I don't mind at all being looked down upon by purists. Indeed I don't mind at all being looked down upon by those whom I do not look up to at all. -
I have a 93 NX2000 a/c taken out - every sensor is replaced and spark plugs
I couldnt figure out why i had such a hard idle - when i slow down it died (after it warms up some) so i figured... its a 93 maybe the injectors need to be cleaned - filled the tank with gas and added some fuel injector cleaner to the tank and the next week it ran perfect. ran good for about 2 months - and now its doing it again. i filled the tank again and added some more fuel injector cleaner and now its running good - not dying as much and not as much of a hard idle. but yeah - i think it has to do with the injectors period.
if this isnt the issue then hopefully someone can help out and save me 400 or so bucks on new injectors ect.....
Dumb question maybe, but have you checked fuel pressure and fuel filter? How many miles? Sometimes fuel pumps being the motors that they are don't just fail, they go through fits. Any seasonal pattern to this (cold/hot/wet/dry)? Maybe that fuel injector cleaner "cleaned" out the pump piping and filter a bit.
Injectors last a pretty long time, what's your mileage? I just replaced my fuel filter, clamps, and hoses from the firewall area forward and it looks like the filter was in there for a long time. It takes a lot of time for injectors to wear out, Nissan more so than some cars I've owned.
I'd also consider a fuel pressure regulator upgrade before springing for injectors unless they definitively test out bad.
ive replaced my iacv, cap/rotor, grounding kit, reground maf, plugs, and still have the divin idle, stalls, and stumbling....have a jdm motor...so now what?
Runs well other than idle? Checked all vacuum hoses and such? Stumbles cold, hot, or both? When my IACV was cracked it ran great idle until it warmed up. Test the voltage across the MAF when warmed up? Reset ECU and still a problem?
I've also since found that even though my ground fixes pretty much cured things, other people have told me this flickering dash light thing with battery/brake(?) pair under deceleration indicates my alternator may be low on the output side. The lack of ground was aggravating that maybe, my ground just got loose on the chassis end and my XC drive bathed some things under the hood with salt water in PA - I cannot emphasize enough that Kuhmo is NOT kidding when they say "Traction N/A" for MX's in freezing temps
I also have a JDM motor but not sure it makes much difference other than CR of 10:1 as Dave C set it up well to pass CA Emissions with all the EGR and other PC equipment. The only reason I've had to mess with it has been the cracked post on the IACV and loosening of the ground cable. Not bad for buying a car sight unseen with a fresh JDM transplant motor. EGR has only been a pain installing my header - whoever designed that side pipe should simply be shot.
I'm relatively new to the SR20DE but the biggest things I've noticed compared to a lot of other smaller I-4's is Idle Problems seem to have a lot of causes, and the EGR full blown system is a real PITA compared even to other Nissan DOHC Four's.
Seems a little touchy in this area - reminds me of trying to smooth out dual side draft Webers - just when you've got down, wait awhile and something else messes with the idle!
Still, the most impressive 2-liter I've ever had, hands down
I have had my 91 sentra SE-R for almost a year and a half. I just put a jdm sr20de in it 10,000 miles ago. I, like some of the others on this thing have had problems with the idle dive bombing, especially when I come to a stop or push in the clutch. The problem is, I've seen all this stuff about everything, and I don't know which solution is for what problem. Is there someone out there who can tell us how to fix this specific problem?
The "diving" issue with mine was simply the main ground (which is also where the MAF ground is hooked in. That alone fixed it.
And not to forget, bad ground. I cleaned my main ground cable, the MAF ground, all the contacts that bolt into the chassis.
No more idle issues, no more dropping and rising, or dropping when using ACC, lights, stereo, etc.
Good sticky thread, helped me a lot eliminate the EC culprits until I found I just had a less that great ground from the motor and the MAF wire, goodbye crappy idle
HTH
__________________ www.SE-R.net
'91 Red Sentra SE-R: my Daily Beater
'94 Black Infiniti G20t: the Wife's ride
'96 Red Jeep Grand Cherokee: the Gas Guzzler
'07 Sunlight Silver Mazdaspeed3: 263hp, 280lb-ft torque, Injen Intake, HKS SSQV BOV
'92 Black Sentra SE-R: 9.20 @ 74.xx mph, 1.98 60ft. 1/8th mile N/A
8.239/8.243 @ 82.xx mph, 1.784/1.726 60ft. 1/8th mile w/ Nitrous
)
2004 Avante XD2 GT - DD
