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Check in this pic, look to the right where you see a yellow plastic cap - the brake MC. Then right in front of that where the intake runs by, there is a metal section, silver colored, black connector on top with a red dot. That's your MAF. Yours may be in a slightly different location on the intake, but it's the only piece that looks like that. Can't miss it.
There is a usually thin gauge wire coming off the top of the MAF, black, it grounds the MAF to the body (sometimes to other places like the intake mani from what I understand). If you look really close, you may see the small black wire snaking off toward the cone filter, that's my ground wire. It was bolted to a not-clean, not well-connected spot for ground. It was corroded on the connector end where it grounds.
That's the basic grounding issue - that wire does not get a good ground, your idle may suck. There are a lot of other grounding MAF approaches, search the forum if yours isn't much like mine.
I made sure my solenoid, for the remaining EGR vacuum system, received it's vacuum from the small hole in the intake pipe, after the MAF and not from the throttle body. The idle was revving between 1500-1900 RPM.
It now idles smoothly.
Unfortunately, it is still at 1900 rpm. (Throttle response is very good).
I realized the throttle cable was just a bit too tight, and made sure it was not pulling the throttle body, at idle, (not even a little bit).
The IACV Idle set-screw is stuck and will not turn. The throttle body idle adjustment screw is buried below every cable and hose for the intake, so adjusting it with the MAF and air-box in place, is not an option.
At least it runs.
I'll try to take the vacuum from the front of the MAF next, to see if it lowers idle to normal.
Maybe, I'll end the mystery and install the AEM, switch off all the annoying sensors and install the Wide Band, so I can see what my A/F is doing, in real time?
Except...
The 0-2 sensor is frozen into the larger bung port adapter and will not separate!
Now the entire exhaust needs to be swapped, so I can install the wide-band 0-2 sensor in a nice clean Down Pipe, then tune the idle with the new ECU.
Simple!
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Matty Moto
*************
92' SE-R "The Red Barron"
92' SE Grocery Get'r
i just installed a nissan avenir w10 avenir sr20det into my b14 im getting a rough idle also car wont stay on unless i play whit the gas pedal to keep it on
ive replaced my iacv, cap/rotor, grounding kit, reground maf, plugs, and still have the divin idle, stalls, and stumbling....have a jdm motor...so now what?
Quote:
Originally Posted by b13magoo
Its amazing how many of us have this problem, Its like the common cold we all get it but not much seems to help it. Mine just started the surging today. Its a lowport g20 wijth an auto. This weekend i guess ill start the diagnosing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kinyo
I have a 93 NX2000 a/c taken out - every sensor is replaced and spark plugs
I couldnt figure out why i had such a hard idle - when i slow down it died (after it warms up some) so i figured... its a 93 maybe the injectors need to be cleaned - filled the tank with gas and added some fuel injector cleaner to the tank and the next week it ran perfect. ran good for about 2 months - and now its doing it again. i filled the tank again and added some more fuel injector cleaner and now its running good - not dying as much and not as much of a hard idle. but yeah - i think it has to do with the injectors period.
if this isnt the issue then hopefully someone can help out and save me 400 or so bucks on new injectors ect.....
^I guess I'll be checking my injectors this weekend. Maybe they are stuck open sparying to much gas. Everything else on the car is basically cleaned, or new. I'm only getting like 215-225 per tank . I'll be installing a new O2 sensor as well and it will be grounded to the block for a good reading. I'll report back.
__________________ Bend But Don't Break
93 SE-RProject 2Door - 2.0VE Gio tune - built 2.3VE up next.
93 XE-R Project 4Door - DE+T - Money Pit. Building N/A and Boost, the best of both worlds.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SR20GTi-R
NA is a thinking man's game, alot of people dont have the stomach to play NA.
Last edited by MR-4Door-SR20DET; 12-29-2009 at 02:09 PM.
I'm also having this issue. I had a hard start on mornings as in I would have to pump the throttle about 10 times to get the car to start, then keep throttling for it to stay running. I would have to do this until I started moving and only after I had done this would the engine stay running but it would sound like it had a miss. If I tried to rev it it the odometer would drop then climb back up once it reaches 4000 rpm and the car would make this whoom whoom whoom sound with each hop of the needle. I'm hoping this is a fuel problem. Other times I don't have the fluctuating issue when I try to rev but my idle is at 1500rpm. Any suggestions or similar experiences? I drive a U12 which is an auto to manual conversion btw
Last edited by zeromiles; 07-20-2010 at 04:35 PM.
Reason: wanna include signature and car model
Ok so I have a gtir in my b13 its all stock everything i am haveing problems with getting it to idle and when I run it as I'm driveing at partial throttle it sputters and breaks up but at half throttle or more cars fine I've replace cap, rotor, plugs, fpr, Idk where the iacv is or the throttle screw is or really any of the normal things I should check are on this motor set up.... Also I know the car is loading up with fuel bc it will backfire with a small flame witch means its running really rich so somebody please help
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98 sentra se 2.0 (bone stock for now )
91 xe-r turbo
92 b13 sold
91 b13 blew up
94 xe crashed
92 b13 parted out
97 prelude gone
95 prelude gone
I have a 240sx with a sr20det swap in it. Had the motor profesionally installed because at the time i didnt know enough about them. Had a cooling problem so i had to pull the motor apart all the way down to the head to replace a small piece of coolant hose. My motor overheated and since the stock T25 turbo is water cooled I think the bearing seized in it because it was boosting before but it would not idle and was running rough until about 2000 rpm. Now the turbo is seized and still has the same problem. I want to know is it possible that it was idling poorly because the turbo bearing was so bad that at low rpm the exhaust gas pressure was not powerful enough to get the turbo spinning because of the bad bearing but after getting the rpms up the exhaust gas pressure became great enough to get the turbo to start spinning and thus the intake system didnt have that big air dam so to speak causing it to not run correctly. Does this sound like a possible problem to why my sr20det was not idling properly at the low rpms? Any information would be greatly appreciated because my wife told me if I cant get the problem fixed in two months i have to sell the car and buy something else so she can have her car back.
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. I'll be installing a new O2 sensor as well and it will be grounded to the block for a good reading. I'll report back.
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